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Moist Lightning

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Everything posted by Moist Lightning

  1. The other option is finding and obd1 ecu and making an adapter to hook it up to the obd2 engine. then modding the obd1 ecu to be flashable. Edit: Just saw it is a obd1 already, then you should be able to mod it, no need for aftermarket ecu.
  2. Me and allot of others have put in 914 seats, if you need leg room i haven't see anything that would ad as much room as these seats. Oops, you said bench seat. nvrmind
  3. I found my ka trans fit perfect after i spun the trans tunnel cover plate around.
  4. If its a nrg wheel you shouldn't need the plate, other brand wheels will have a different bolt pattern and require a adapter. https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20190620072403&SearchText=steering+Hub+Adapter+Spacer
  5. no need for the quick release, just need the hub and an adapter plate depending on the type of wheel you want to run. Ive got the same nrg hub in mine with a nardi.
  6. they are desirable when in good shape but most of them rattle constantly while driving and are hard to find new seal for. I noticed some of them have a large metal spacer at the top that make them fit better and i think it looks bad(kc has bigger window than standard cab). Also think the bare aluminium ones stick out and don't look as nice as a flat one, but they are more practical.
  7. Lots of good info on the stock carb. but no one really answered the weber question. The weber is a lot simpler than the stock carb. Lots of diagrams and info available for them too. I would recommend getting one. especially if your not familiar with carbs. took me a while to comprehend all the circuits and functions, allot easier to learn on a weber 32/36.
  8. for epoxy, any dupont (now axalta) brand is pretty good. on the cheaper side they have a nasons brand. Otherwise people swear by (forgot brand atm, will update when i remember) In canada i found endura to be the best bang for buck. When doing my research prior to painting my frame. it seemed the general consensus was self-etch prior to the epoxy being easily available, but now seems most are switching to epoxy. That being said the self etech is still a good solution that will provide good rust prevention. Other notes for epoxy Will take a loooong time to dry if its too cold Needs good ventilation (new laws have reduced the amount of hazardous chems in it but still bad to inhale). The epoxy must be mixed in the correct proportions as it is a catalyzed reaction. however this is also why it is so good, it essentially encapsulates the frame in plastic.
  9. Epoxy primer is the best you can get in terms of moisture barrier and rust prevention but you probably want a clean frame first. Additionally it must be topcoated as it is not uv resistant. I just blasted , epoxied and top coated a frame. There is a slight learning curve when figuring out what epoxy primer to use. Solvent based high solids for primer, solvent based mid to low solids for sealer.
  10. I had a feeling, mostly wrote it for all the other people who were curious of what you said ?
  11. Google translate says: Good job brother!!! Where do you live;
  12. Ahh i missed that it was bluetooth. I Agree with Stoffrengen, no thanks. The plastic shielding on the old wires get really brittle and vibrations can end up breaking them causing shorts. don't think vinegar will help that.
  13. Nice, Unfortunately most of your pics aren't working for me though. Would you say that the m-unit simplified the wiring? or what would you say the benefit of the m unit is over just making a new harness like the stock one? I think his main concerns were grounding/shorts from corrosion. I'm thinking of doing the same.
  14. Yes canam and mounts are nice if you got the cash and want an easy install. However, I feel like mentioning that the same can be accomplished with 3 fused relays and l16 rubber mounts. Edit: I see your in cali so those parts are not too much. Mostly writing for anyone not in the USA that reads this thread.
  15. Please post in the classifieds section. Im sure mods will be here soon to lock this and the other wanted post.
  16. You may already know but just incase it helps some others out i'll explain the best method to drill these out. Basically the larger the bit the slower you want to drill. this is because a larger bit spinning at the same rpm as a smaller bit is actually moving much faster. So to drill through these you need to go slow with A LOT of pressure. you'd be surprised how much more you can cut when you have speed and pressure right. However, I think there probably is a variance in metal hardness as i've come across the odd bolt that was insanely strong. Hope the next shop is able to do if for ya.
  17. Mine has a sticker on the rad support when you pop the hood. although i can only make out 2 of the numbers on mine - they fade easy:(
  18. Not sure why you decided z32. if you do ball joint swap and d21 drop spindles at the same time and use the the d21 awd front brakes, they will bolt right up no adapter needed. will be better steering geometry if you wanted to go lower too.
  19. I used a cheap princess auto bit (canadian harbor freight) Although i had to sharpen it like 10 times to get the 2 holes done. It wasn't perfect but within acceptable tolerance. Definitely a better idea to drill press. I was just being lazy since my pitman was being a c**t.
  20. By hand only because the pitman arm won't come off. I've heard of people breaking pullers trying to remove them. its a real pain. Try yours if you have a puller, maybe you'll be lucky and it'll come off.
  21. my ka swap was cheap and easy, tend to be 1-3 ka24de's for sale per year around here but all around 500 including trans ecu ect. However i wasn't planning a swap my l series was dying and thats why it was a cheap build. That being said the next one will be a rebuilt ka with a bit of money put into it. will still come out cheaper than just a sr20 around here. Also it takes a while but I was surprised how much i've made parting out l20bs. defs takes a big chunk out of the cost. If you chasing big speed and lots of revs go for the sr and brake upgrade but it will be $$$. Edit: 240sx engines are cheaper, check out the tapered insert thread its easy to flip the link for the pan, cost breakdown there too. however if your looking for 300hp it will be hard to get that reliably from a ka. here is a good write up on na ka builds:https://www.s-chassis.com/forums/na-motor-11/proof-na-ka-can-make-200chp-%241000-30440/ Edit 2: to summarize that link a ka+1000$ in mods will put out the same power as a sr with 7 psi boost. so if you can get the ka24de +1000$ in mods for less the a sr20 turbo then get the ka. however if you want more than 200hp it will be easier to build a reliable sr with 300 hp than to design a custom ka24 turbo setup.
  22. My 73 came with a l20b & clutch fan. Fit fine with the l16 rad, seemed to cool fine too. However, it doesn't get super hot where I live.
  23. Never notice that, thanks. Just got a late model recently too. surprising amount of small differences.
  24. Also early 620 had rad inlet on right side.
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