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Moist Lightning

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About Moist Lightning

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Canada
  • Cars
    Datsun 620

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  1. The other option is finding and obd1 ecu and making an adapter to hook it up to the obd2 engine. then modding the obd1 ecu to be flashable. Edit: Just saw it is a obd1 already, then you should be able to mod it, no need for aftermarket ecu.
  2. Me and allot of others have put in 914 seats, if you need leg room i haven't see anything that would ad as much room as these seats. Oops, you said bench seat. nvrmind
  3. I found my ka trans fit perfect after i spun the trans tunnel cover plate around.
  4. If its a nrg wheel you shouldn't need the plate, other brand wheels will have a different bolt pattern and require a adapter. https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20190620072403&SearchText=steering+Hub+Adapter+Spacer
  5. no need for the quick release, just need the hub and an adapter plate depending on the type of wheel you want to run. Ive got the same nrg hub in mine with a nardi.
  6. they are desirable when in good shape but most of them rattle constantly while driving and are hard to find new seal for. I noticed some of them have a large metal spacer at the top that make them fit better and i think it looks bad(kc has bigger window than standard cab). Also think the bare aluminium ones stick out and don't look as nice as a flat one, but they are more practical.
  7. Lots of good info on the stock carb. but no one really answered the weber question. The weber is a lot simpler than the stock carb. Lots of diagrams and info available for them too. I would recommend getting one. especially if your not familiar with carbs. took me a while to comprehend all the circuits and functions, allot easier to learn on a weber 32/36.
  8. for epoxy, any dupont (now axalta) brand is pretty good. on the cheaper side they have a nasons brand. Otherwise people swear by (forgot brand atm, will update when i remember) In canada i found endura to be the best bang for buck. When doing my research prior to painting my frame. it seemed the general consensus was self-etch prior to the epoxy being easily available, but now seems most are switching to epoxy. That being said the self etech is still a good solution that will provide good rust prevention. Other notes for epoxy Will take a loooong time to dry if its too cold Needs good ventilation (new laws have reduced the amount of hazardous chems in it but still bad to inhale). The epoxy must be mixed in the correct proportions as it is a catalyzed reaction. however this is also why it is so good, it essentially encapsulates the frame in plastic.
  9. Epoxy primer is the best you can get in terms of moisture barrier and rust prevention but you probably want a clean frame first. Additionally it must be topcoated as it is not uv resistant. I just blasted , epoxied and top coated a frame. There is a slight learning curve when figuring out what epoxy primer to use. Solvent based high solids for primer, solvent based mid to low solids for sealer.
  10. I had a feeling, mostly wrote it for all the other people who were curious of what you said ?
  11. Google translate says: Good job brother!!! Where do you live;
  12. Ahh i missed that it was bluetooth. I Agree with Stoffrengen, no thanks. The plastic shielding on the old wires get really brittle and vibrations can end up breaking them causing shorts. don't think vinegar will help that.
  13. Nice, Unfortunately most of your pics aren't working for me though. Would you say that the m-unit simplified the wiring? or what would you say the benefit of the m unit is over just making a new harness like the stock one? I think his main concerns were grounding/shorts from corrosion. I'm thinking of doing the same.
  14. Yes canam and mounts are nice if you got the cash and want an easy install. However, I feel like mentioning that the same can be accomplished with 3 fused relays and l16 rubber mounts. Edit: I see your in cali so those parts are not too much. Mostly writing for anyone not in the USA that reads this thread.
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