What would you do?

[Stinky]

I am working on a '92 Accord.  Changing the Timing Belt.  The Balance shaft belt was busted.  The TB looks like a 10 year old tire, cracks all over the place and visibly O-L-D.

 

The tensioner is the question/problem.  In the center the tensioner wheel has a slot in it and it goes on a stud.   That stud is about 3/8" and has a 14mm nut on it.  That bolt was quite tight.  The wheel's bracket is in an Ell shape.  At one end a spring hooks on to it....like 2" from the tensioner's pivot point.    It also has a slot in it where a 6mm bolt w/a 10mm head on it (on the small side).  That bolt is busted off in the block.  I did not find it's head behind the cover....gone for awhile.

 

It all lives about 3" from the inside of the fender....can't easily fix it the right way.

 

So, to fix it, I can:

Pull the motor.

Put it back together and tighten the snot outa the 14mm nut....would this be enough to hold it....AGAIN?

Do #2 and JB Weld a bolt on to the block and go from there.

 

BTW....6-9months ago, I was at my pawn shop and they had a cheap, no-name 1/4" ratchet on the counter.  It has a 10" long handle on it (L-O-N-G for a 1/4" ratchet) and a twist T-handle on the end where you can work the ratchet w/o moving the handle.  I've done a T-Belt and a T-chain in the 2 prior months, not counting this one.....If I lost this one, I'd gladly pay $50 for a new one.

 

And, a box ended ratchet wrench.  How did we get by w/o them?     When you have 2" of space, both of these are really saving time.  But, in the olden days, the spots were bigger.

[frankendat]

You left out crucial info.

Why are your working on it?

Who owns it?

Financial situation (yours or vehicle owner)

 

When repairing anything, expectation links directly to ass ache. If someone is coming to me for car repair, they are desperate and only want me to extend the life of their vehicle for as long as possible, as cheaply as possible. In these situations, there is no "shop rate", they are friends or family of friends needing help. If charging for my time in a situation like you describe, it is simple--I wouldn't. I am not a believer of JB weld longevity and pulling the motor might be more than the car is worth. I am not a professional or even a semi-professional mechanic, most of my knowledge is earned through trial and error, an expensive and often painful method of instruction, but information retention is high. If I have fixed a similar issue in the past, then confidence the repair will be  quick and easy will weigh into the decision process. There are too many variables in your question, for an outsider to offer solution, as many of them are dependent on you.

[datzenmike]

If what ever you are looking at maybe changing (timing belt tensioner?) can fail in the future, it could directly cause the belt to fail and probably this is an interference engine causing valves to hit the piston tops. 

[Stinky]

You just had to ask those questions.

 

It is my son's car.  It was a gift to him....get it outa my yard.  We are in to it for about $300 now.  It was in a fender bender....suspension, fender and axle.  The reason, is because he doesn't like mechanics, or much of anything.   

Edited August 20, 2022 by Stinky

[datzenmike]

Don't make it so easy for him. If he doesn't have a job he doesn't need a car. If you do all the work make sure you get paid for it. If not, the work done has no value to him and he will treat it like that.

[Stinky]

Valid Points....interference engine.

 

BTW, I was sarcastic as heck about bringing it up.

 

This is the part here. 

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/honda,1992,accord,2.2l+l4,1167162,engine,timing+belt+tensioner,5721

 

There is a pvot point that is almost covered by the pulley.

 

In the pulley is a slot....Is that enough to hold the wheel in place?  I don't now the size, but it is roughly 3/8" and has a 14mm head on it.

 

Going to the long end of the bracket.  There is a small hole, the tension spring goes in there.  The small slot in the bracket...do I need a bolt in there to hold the thing in place?  It used to be a 6mm bolt (smaller than 1/4").

[bottomwatcher]

Post a pic. Myself I am cheap but want the POS's I drive to be cross country ready whenever. Drilling out broken bolts is a pain in the ass but doable. No clearance? Well it is a POS so hack whatever body parts to make it mechanically sound. If not driving very far let it roll with what was working. Tool wise I figure mechanics charge over $100 an hour so buying the right tool pays for itself in the first repair by not fucking things up using the wrong tool.

[iceman510]

Looks like that L bracket is perhaps only anti-rotation?  I did a 96 Civic timing belt a few years ago, but it didn't have that extra bracket that I recall.

 

I personally would want to replace that bolt if possible.  Can you get at it with an angle head drill?  I had to buy one myself years ago to drill out a broken water pump bolt in a transverse engine car with limited clearance like that.

 

Maybe loosen motor mounts and jack up the engine to get better access to the broken bolt?  I had to do this on a 10 altima a couple weeks back to replace the serpentine belt tensioner.  Had to jack it up high enough to clear the side frame rail and get a wrench on the bolt.