How to: Destroying a 710 - By Sully

[DatsSully]

I figured it's time for me to finally start posting my sh*tbox(and maybe my car too).

Quick backstory: I've had the car for almost 10 years, it was 100% stock with nice factory paint and everything working well. I ruined everything nice about it when I was ~17-18. I was in the middle of swapping in an L20b along with a lot of other half finished projects on it before I went off to college. When I came back to it I realized just how badly I had screwed up so many basic things with most of the crap I had done to it.

 

For the past 2 years I've been working on it off and on, fixing old mistakes, as well as working towards future goals with it. Luckily I'm only half the dumb@ss I used to be so it's been going pretty well, still learning though.

 

Things I've done in the past two years:

"Rebuilt" the L18(New gaskets, timing chain, etc)

Finished my auto to manual swap 

    -the measurements I took for the drivehaft as a teenager were slightly long(taken without the trans mount), going to solve this soon

280ZX struts/brakes - cut 1/2 a coil, sitting on collar clamps - Undecided on if I'll go low or high

Upgraded the headlights to H4s

Hella Rally lights - currently wired to turn on w/ low beams and off w/ high beams

Trunk mounted battery

 

To-Dos:

Too many, I have like 5 lists in different places(cleaning up wiring, painting different parts, tracking down leaks, etc)

I have an IR alternator coming in soon because I've been having issue with my voltage regulator(s), one has the charge light on but seems to work, the other overcharges.

 

 

Anyway here's a couple of pics from the past couple of years:

First drive two years ago after sitting for ~6 years

 

Last Summer after taking the crusty bumpers off, I've added some hellas since then. Going to make some less crude bumpers this summer.

 

I'll post more when I sort through all the random photos I have. 

[datzenmike]

Must be an early '74. Front needs more lower to match the rear more closely. Keep the smiley front bumper. Remove that black backing. Use an angle grinder and nick the bumper shocks and let out the pressure, then push the bumper all the way back. That pipe looks awful. Tires and rims look nice.

 

I think I took a coil and a 1/3 out of the front springs. This gives a 150 pound per inch spring rate. The lower you go the stiffer the spring rate should be.

[DatsSully]

The pipe is temporary, I'll be attempting to make something less at janky soon. I took the smileys off because they were literally falling apart, I had one of the rubber pads fly off while I was going 50+. I was lucky there weren't any cars around for it to hit. Once that flew off I got to see all the crust that it was hiding, the brackets literally crumbled apart when I was removing them. I pushed in the back bumper shocks, I want to at least mock up what I want to do with the front bumper first.

 

I'm feeling out the suspension gradually(really slow right now because I haven't had time), I don't want it too low because I like to rip it around dirt lots/roads. I was actually looking into ways to easily lift the rear a little bit. Best ideas I came up for it were adding a spring/getting composite leafs made/flipping bracket. I've just been trying to focus on one thing at a time though and I'm still ironing out the kinks in the engine. 

[datzenmike]

These clamp to your shock absorber. Raise the car in the air slide them up and clamp. Let down onto the springs. Adjust as needed. Cheap easy way to gain an inch, stiffer and less likely to bottom out. 

[DatsSully]

Wicked hot day here, living on a creek doesn't help at all. Didn't get as much done as I wanted, I've been working in the heat all day and just want to be infront of a fan. I did get the IR alternator(reman '80 200sx) in. Straightforward, just a PIA because of my fleabay radiator. Followed a thread from Mike, the bit about the choke relay is nice. If I can get my sh*t together I won't have to deal with a carb anymore anyway.

 

 

I bought a kit of old style plugs/connectors awhile back, I use the tabs more than the actual plugs though.

 

Pic to show how close the alternator is to the rad hose, didn't think it was going to fit at first

 

 

I'm going to start on the bumper brackets tomorrow, might mock everything up too. I also got a spot weld drill bit, going to attempt to get the rear license plate bracket and battery tray off. 

 

 

[DatsSully]

On 6/4/2021 at 8:45 PM, datzenmike said:

These clamp to your shock absorber. Raise the car in the air slide them up and clamp. Let down onto the springs. Adjust as needed. Cheap easy way to gain an inch, stiffer and less likely to bottom out. 

 

You got me thinking, would using a shock with a built in spring do the same thing while being a little more "professional"?

 

I have KYB343149 s in now and I was looking at similar shocks and came across the Monroe 58510, the compressed/decompressed lengths are almost the same but with the added spring. Looks like the mounting points might be close enough too.

 

[Lockleaf]

Yes those spring over shocks can provide a little bit of lift.  They will also stiffen your rear suspension feel.  

Edited June 8, 2021 by Lockleaf

[datzenmike]

You could dismantle your leaf springs and have them re-arched. This would keep the same rate but I feel that all leaf springs are on the soft side to not annoy the most buyers backsides. A little firmer is good for handling.

[DatsSully]

I would like to get the springs re-arched, but I live 2+ hours from any shop that might be able to do it. That's part of the reason I was thinking about getting composite springs made, take some measurements, have cutomized ones made and sent to me. I'll get the rear on stands this weekend and make sure those shocks will work, as well as check all the bushings/etc. Something sounds loose back there anyway.

[DatsSully]

Started work on the bumpers today. It's taking more time than I expected, mostly because I'm still learning to weld(Still god awful). Trying to get my tip distance down, getting a lot of burn through from getting too close. Getting some Argon might help me out a bit, I just need a weekday free(And new headgaskets in my forester) to make the drive to the welding shop since no local shops carry it.  Got my brackets made though, might need some quick touchups before I finalize them. Got the bumper all mocked up. I just need to figure out where I want to cut the ends at, as well as make fog light/license plate brackets, then weld it in place. I have some more ideas for it, so it might change down the line, but at least it will look a little better for now.

 

One of the brackets, I'm neither a welder or a grinder right now. I might redo these tomorrow.

 

The bumper mocked in place, probably going to cut it a few inches after the bend and plug it. If I was to redo it, with better tools, I'd probably add more angle to make the bends hug the body a little more. I also pushed back the bumper stops back a few inches, I'll take them off, clean, weld, and paint them tomorrow. I'll do the same with the bumper/brackets, then it's on to the rear bumper.

 

I'll try to get it on some jackstands tomorrow to take a look at the rear and try to track down some of the noises it makes.

 

Also anyone have any suggestion on side mirrors? I put these ones on probably 6 years ago and they're so cheap and awful, once I'm past 50mph they lose their position making them useless. I like having two vs. just the one stock one.

[DatsSully]

Finished the front bumper today. Spent a good amount of time grinding down yesterdays welds, I started to get the feel for it today and made a few decent passes towards the end. The rear bumper should go a lot smoother. It's definitely not perfect but it's decent enough.

 

Loose fitting everything to the tabs I put on the bumper. I have an extra spot on the fog light tab for a second pair if I ever feel like it.

 

After cutting down the ends/Better shot of all my poor welding

 

Priming/Painting after cleaning up some of the rough welds

 

Going to let the paint cure overnight before I put my plate/lights back on. 

 

Took a look at the rear, the leaf could definitely use a re-arching. Might get a quote on that and on composites to weigh my options. Might even just get an "add-a-leaf" with the shocks as a bandaid. Definitely need new bushings for them too, which I kind of figured after going through everything up front. Still need idler arm bushings up front but I'll probably wait to do those for when I have a reason to drop them.

 

Also on my to-do is to replace my front left brake bleeder screw, it leaks when I press the brakes hard. Hoping the seat isn't messed up too bad, might just have to stick my dremel with wire wheel down it if the new screw doesn't work.

[datzenmike]

I sectioned a '62 Chevy Nova (or Chevy ll?) bumper. Took 2 four inch sections out and welded it back up. There were a lot of bumps to hammer out

 

 

 

 

 

Same with the rear plus 5 slits, close them up and weld to get the curve under the tailgate.

 

 

 

 

[DatsSully]

That's neat, kind of makes the whole car look beefier. If I was to ever find parts off an old car around here, Novas are probably the easiest to get. I like to keep things simple for now. Also most everything I've been doing to the car a of late is easily reversible to stock, just in case I ever change my mind. I still have the original bumpers and all the pieces, once I'm more confident in my fab skills I might fix them up. I just don't want to destroy original parts unless 100% necessary since it's next to impossible to find replacements.

[datzenmike]

It had those mandated 5 mph 'park bench' bumpers so I scrapped them and good riddance. Beefier. I was too close to be objective about the look. Beefier it is!

[DatsSully]

Decided to tackle changing out the throttle linkage to cable. Like most things, it was a lot easier than I had thought in the past. I just did it quick and dirty and will clean it up when I'm satisfied with it. I had read somewhere awhile back that a 200sx cable would work but I couldn't see how, so I've had one sitting in my garage for a couple of years, bought a universal 24" cable for like $25 and it fit near perfectly.

 

I started out with the linkage to make sure it would work. I have 2 or 3 different kits but ended up using the one that I think came with the weber.

 

I took off all the old linkage stuff off the firewall, bagged/labeled it, and threw it in one of many parts boxes. Then I drilled out the ball on the pedal(saved it just in case) and ran the cable to the pedal. This ended up binding and not allowing the engine to idle after revving. So I had to weld a small tab on the pedal.

 

I ordered some suspension parts that should be here next week. One thing I couldn't find though, was leaf spring bushings. I found parts numbers, 55045-22900, 55046-22900, 55047-22900, but no parts. If anyone knows another bushing set that'll fit or has measurements I'd appreciate it. Otherwise I'll have to wait until I have a working daily again, so I can remove the old bushings on one side, and take measurements to hopefully find some poly bushings around the same size. 

[slowlearner]

I've got to mod my accel pedal for a cable soon too. Was interesting to see what you had to do.

[DatsSully]

5 hours ago, slowlearner said:

I've got to mod my accel pedal for a cable soon too. Was interesting to see what you had to do.

 

I've read about people swapping in other pedals but this way was way easier for me since it'd be hard to source a pedal near me. 

 

Here's another shot of what I did:

 

It could be better, but the difference of having a cable over linkage is night and day IMO.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

I had an exciting weekend. Since my daily is basically totaled, I've been driving the 710 everywhere. I made a 40 mile trip to my girlfriend's family cottage. When I (finally) got there I went to move it and it wouldn't turn over, the starter would just click. Figures something would break the one time I don't bring a bunch of tools with me. I spent an hour cleaning contacts, jumping the battery, and trying to jump all the points on the starter, nothing. So I pushed it, with some help, uphill to a parking space. When it was time to head home, nothing had changed, so I again had to enlist some help to push it and pop the clutch(first time I've ever had to do this). Started up and worked fine, but a few miles down the road my shifter felt loose. I guess I hadn't fully seated the e-clip when installing the lever because the next thing I knew I had the shifter fully out of the boot. This was just in time to roll up to a busy intersection that I then stalled out in. After getting some help to push it, once again, I pulled up my shifter boot and luckily the pin was still in one ear. So I just threw the shifter and pin back in without the e-clip. Took me a few times to get the car rolling fast enough in the small parking lot I was in but I once again got it started again and drove it home, while keeping a close eye on the pin.

 

I guess the moral of the story is to double or triple check everything after a big job like a trans swap, and/or to always have a toolbox/spare parts with you. I'm kind of impressed it took three years for this to happen though.

 

I haven't had a chance this week to actually take anything apart since I've been away(had to get a ride) but I do have a temporary daily while I look for a new one. This weekend I'll take a closer look at the starter and fix the shifter. I also have some parts for the rear suspension so I'll probably take the leaf springs out and get some measurements.

[slowlearner]

Stories like that take me back. One time I broke my clutch cable and had to drive an hour home without it. I had a mate in front of me making sure the traffic lights were triggered so I didn't have to stop. 😉 

[DatsSully]

Spent some time trying to figure out my no start issue today. Took the starter off and cleaned it all up, everything looked fine, besides being covered in oil on the outside and having a good coat of clutch dust on the gear. My battery was dead so it was charging most of the day, so I was looking for physical issues, which there were none. Once it was charged I got to checking voltage on everything. 

I found two things:

One: My 50 Y/O starter is fine, it's the ford style solenoid I have for safety reasons in the trunk that died.

Two: I have a small power draw from my switch/relay that activates the solenoid which probably caused it's early failure(or I left the switch on).

 

I connected the main wires together and it fired right up. I'm glad I didn't buy a new starter/battery now, I'll make a trip to some parts stores tomorrow to find a new solenoid. I might change the switch to a button too for the "push button start" people talk about. I did find a few things that I'll need to add to my growing to-do list. Most of them could be solved with a KA swap though.

 

I also finally found where my coolant drip was coming from, I had thought it was a crack in the firewall connector for the heater box, but it was just that the hoses were cracked underneath(I think). I'll pick up some new hose tomorrow too.

[DatsSully]

Fixed the no-start issue over the weekend. I cleaned up my old wiring job a bit too. I decided to get rid of the flip switch that activates the rear solenoid and replace it with a button switch that connects to both the rear and starter solenoids via a relay. Starts way stronger than it ever has now and it's a "push to start".

 

I decided to start tackling the rear suspension today but my power went out half way into this project, so I was working by the light of my drill that I had to press every few seconds. It's straightforward and would be easy but it's the only part of the car that hasn't been touched in 50 years so things are a little sticky. The U-bolts and bushing bolts were pretty easy to break free but the center bolt nut literally fell off(with threads) as I was loosening the U-bolts. It might've made my life easier that way though.

I have new center bolts, spring clamps, and an "add-a-leaf". The only thing I forgot was the pads that go in between the leafs, I'll see if I can't pick some up at a parts store this week. If I get a chance tomorrow I'll start removing the bushings to get measurements for new poly ones. While I wait on poly bushings I'll probably clean the springs up so they don't go in looking too rusty.

 

Depending on how it sits I might order those shocks with coils too.

[DatsSully]

Took some measurements yesterday, nothing in the prothane/Energy Suspension catalog is a perfect match for them. But if I keep the metal sleeves on the bolts then I should be able to fit the sleeves over them to make them work. 

 

All the bolts are 12mm and existing sleeves are 5/8"

 

The front eyelet measurements are:

Dia: 1 3/4"

Inner Tube length: 2 3/8"

Outer Bushing length: 2 7/8"

Closest Part ES # is 9.9488 or Prothane #19611

 

The lower shackle bushing is:

Dia: 1 3/8"

Inner Tube Length: 2 3/8"

Outer Bushing Length: 2 3/4"

Closest Part # 3.2126

 

Upper shackle is the same except longer so same part number as the lower.

 

I contacted the sales service and they pretty much said the same thing.

 

If the sleeve over sleeve idea is awful I could potentially modify the shackle/bracket to use some grade 8 bolts in the right size. The existing sleeves are in there pretty good though.

[datzenmike]

Do the final tightening of bushings with the car on it's wheels. If you want to be really anal, have someone sit in the driver's seat. Poly bushings are going to squeak.

[DatsSully]

I've already put poly bushings in the front control arms, so I'm used to hearing some squeaking. Unless it's something else squeaking, I still have to go through the front again. I'm going to take measurements of the spring itself too, for if I decide to go monoleaf/composite. I've been looking at various 4-link builds, trying to wrap my head around it. 100% a project for another day, when I have more fab skills, money, and knowledge.

 

This is a busy time of year for me, might be a couple weeks before I can put it back together and finish the rear bumper.

[DatsSully]

Finally got everything I needed delivered. I decided on just using leaf spring liners between the springs. I do have one issue though, I had the wrong measurement for the rear bushings. I don't know how I managed it either. They're 1 1/4" diameter not 1 3/8". 

 

But now that I know that, I did find bushing that would work by cross referencing suspension(dot)com's websites. I found these, which list the dimensions of the bushings. So I searched for a cheaper kit and found this. So I'll order that kit and be able to get my car off of jackstands soon.

EDIT: Energy Suspension Part #61011(bushing itself) if anyone is looking for the info.

 

The take away from this is that Jeep YJ front shackle bushings theoretically fit Datsun 710 rear shackles, urethane versions at least.

 

In other news, my little brother recently got a '78 MG MGB. So I'll probably be spending some time helping him fix it this summer. The thing needs a lot of work, don't know if he's fully realized yet or not 😅

 

Edited July 13, 2021 by DatsSully
Adding a part #

[slowlearner]

MGBs are lovely looking cars. You can see all Italian influences in them. Unfortunately, once you get under the skin, it's all over. Mechanically they're horrible. My condolences to your brother. 😁