CossieSpawn Posted September 21, 2020 Report Share Posted September 21, 2020 I have a quick question. So I’m installing a ka24 into my 1972 620 and i’m wondering what the red circle is, if it needs to be relocated, or if I even need it. https://imgur.com/gallery/5wfVKj5 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 21, 2020 Report Share Posted September 21, 2020 Was this an automatic? Look on the other side and see what that switch is connected to. If automatic and it's connected to the gas pedal you can remove it. Quote Link to comment
CossieSpawn Posted September 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2020 It was a 4 speed manual and inside the cab there is an adjustable screw on the gas pedal rod-? that presses on the switch that is on the engine side of the firewall with the electrical wiring as in the picture. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 21, 2020 Report Share Posted September 21, 2020 If anything it'll be emissions related I think and superfluous to the needs of a KA. Automatics had an electrical kick down switch on the gas pedal. On top of that it looks like a clutch or brake pedal switch and it looks home made with the janky ground on firewall. I've never seen this before. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 21, 2020 Report Share Posted September 21, 2020 On the diagram I think it's the accelerator switch.... check the wire colors... as Mike said probably emission related.... You can follow the wires around the diagram.... the end up through a couple switches and a relay and attached to the coil and distributor.... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 21, 2020 Report Share Posted September 21, 2020 Where I found the diagrams... https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/datsun-pickup-wiring-diagrams-for-320-520-521-620-720.html Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 21, 2020 Report Share Posted September 21, 2020 Thanks crash, I found it on my '73 FSM. Both manuals and automatics had this switch. Power from fuse to temp switch in cab (senses above 50F) then to gas pedal switch then 4 gear switch then to distributor relay. IF cab temp above 50F, throttle below 1/2 and in any gear other than 4th the retard circuit is on. So rip her out with confidence that it won't affect the KA. Quote Link to comment
Spawn Posted October 2, 2020 Report Share Posted October 2, 2020 Thanks guys! We removed the switch from the firewall (fairly easy to do as it was simply a threaded shaft with the switch on it that went in to the cab - just had to remove the accelerator pedal to be able to get the locknut removed inside the cab and then unthread it from the engine bay). This allowed us to get the KA situated at the right angle to be able to install the transmission. One thing that I'm not sure if others have been doing or not, but we used the 5 speed manual transmission from a 1990'ish Nissan D21 Hardbody, as the overall length of the transmission is a bit shorter than the 240SX transmission, and positions the gear shift lever almost exactly where the opening is from the original 620's transmission (just had to trim a bit of the cover plate back to see the whole gear shift lever port). We're slowly making progress on the project, but some of the bigger hurdles that we are running into is that we need to get a transmission mount cross member that will fit properly underneath the transmission. The original cross member for the '72 4 speed actually was almost a flat cross member going across (it actually went up slightly in the center). For my '77 the cross member actually drops down in the center to provide more room for the transmission. I'm trying to locate a cross member of this style, but have not had managed to purchase one yet. You can see the differences in the cross members here: https://imgur.com/a/a5VN3jW The other thing that we need to get sorted out is the fuel tank. The original tank when the truck was first bought could never be filled beyond approximately half full, as the fuel would start to spill out onto the ground where you were filling it. While the vehicle was sitting for several years, something gave way and the fuel started leaking onto the garage floor (had a very strong odor that was making my wife ill anytime she was walking near the connecting door to the attached garage). I did not get the opportunity to determine where this leak was coming from, as I had to drain what remained in the tank and then use some cat litter to try and soak up what had leaked onto the floor. After dropping the tank out, we didn't see any obvious points of leakage, but it was dropped several weeks after everything was drained, so I don't know that we would have seen anything apparent. We did notice that one of the smaller rubber lines was torn and also was missing a chunk out of it after we had dropped the tank out of the way. I'm not sure what this smaller line is for, but there appeared to be two of them going to the top of the tank. I'll try and get pictures later this week or early next week. Does anyone know if it's feasible to really repair a tank this old, or are we better off trying to source a replacement? 1 Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted October 2, 2020 Report Share Posted October 2, 2020 I've welded on the datsun gas tanks a bunch, adding bigger fuel lines or modifying them for clearance. Just clean it really good and let it dry and I've never had an issue. As long as you are capable of welding thin metal. I tig weld it for more control. 1 Quote Link to comment
Spawn Posted October 2, 2020 Report Share Posted October 2, 2020 8 hours ago, Icehouse said: I've welded on the datsun gas tanks a bunch, adding bigger fuel lines or modifying them for clearance. Just clean it really good and let it dry and I've never had an issue. As long as you are capable of welding thin metal. I tig weld it for more control. Unfortunately I don't have any kind of welding equipment at all, that's why I'm hoping that I can find a replacement or an alternative. I know there's always the option of something like a race fuel cell that you can bolt into the bed of the truck, but I'd prefer to keep the bed clear for carrying things in. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted October 3, 2020 Report Share Posted October 3, 2020 12 hours ago, Spawn said: Unfortunately I don't have any kind of welding equipment at all, that's why I'm hoping that I can find a replacement or an alternative. I know there's always the option of something like a race fuel cell that you can bolt into the bed of the truck, but I'd prefer to keep the bed clear for carrying things in. You should be able to find a place to clean and repair it.. radiator repair shops are a good place to check but I was able to find a place just searching gas tank cleaning .... probably run you about 200 or 300, depending on how good or bad it actually is..... If the tank is really rusty make sure the pickup tube still in good shape... If necessary you can replace it with a screw in marine pickup tube... just have the shop weld a npt bung on..... Quote Link to comment
jagman Posted October 3, 2020 Report Share Posted October 3, 2020 If your tank is pin holed or has a weep spot use solder to coat the tank in that area after wire brushing the outside to bare metal. Use a solder paste to coat the tank surface and then do a build up. If it is a hole, use clean roofing copper to cover the hole and top fill with solder. I have done this with Jaguar tanks and my Chrysler tank. If you are using a torch make sure you route a hose from a running car to the gas inlet on the tank for 20 mins before starting to solder. I use a large iron to do this work. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 3, 2020 Report Share Posted October 3, 2020 I soldered a 720 tank that was pin holed where the mud collects and rusts. Tin snips and an old rad for a brass patch. Emptied the tank and let dry, fill with water leaving a small bubble at the patch site. This way no fumes can collect. Used sandpaper, solder paste flux and propane torch to clean and tin the tank and the patch. Put patch over tinned hole area and apply heat. Hold solder around edge and it will flow in between and seal. Go all the way around. 1 Quote Link to comment
Spawn Posted October 3, 2020 Report Share Posted October 3, 2020 11 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: You should be able to find a place to clean and repair it.. radiator repair shops are a good place to check but I was able to find a place just searching gas tank cleaning .... probably run you about 200 or 300, depending on how good or bad it actually is..... If the tank is really rusty make sure the pickup tube still in good shape... If necessary you can replace it with a screw in marine pickup tube... just have the shop weld a npt bung on..... I did manage to find a place called Gas Tank Renu-USA that has a location near me, but when I called to ask about getting it repaired, the rep was saying that it would be about $400-450 just for a standard clean up and renewal, but could be more expensive depending on how bad the tank was (varnish, sludge, whatever builds up inside the tank after sitting for 5-10 years without having been drained). My friend and I tried to remove the pickup from the top of the tank, but it seemed like it was seized in place. I put some PB Blaster on it to let it soak and haven't had a chance to see if it has freed it up to the point where it could be removed. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 4, 2020 Report Share Posted October 4, 2020 There are commercial tank liner kits available. Has everything, cleaner, primer, two part epoxy or phenolic liquid you pour in and swish around to coat the inside. Good results. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted October 4, 2020 Report Share Posted October 4, 2020 12 hours ago, Spawn said: I did manage to find a place called Gas Tank Renu-USA that has a location near me, but when I called to ask about getting it repaired, the rep was saying that it would be about $400-450 just for a standard clean up and renewal, but could be more expensive depending on how bad the tank was (varnish, sludge, whatever builds up inside the tank after sitting for 5-10 years without having been drained). My friend and I tried to remove the pickup from the top of the tank, but it seemed like it was seized in place. I put some PB Blaster on it to let it soak and haven't had a chance to see if it has freed it up to the point where it could be removed. Ya that sounds a bit pricey guess I got lucky..... Quote Link to comment
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