Crashtd420 Posted March 24, 2020 Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 1 hour ago, pipefitter said: So if I find a 84-85 2wheel 5 speed I can swap my 73 L18 4 speed bell hiding and make it work that way? I think I follow I corrected the year in my post ... I think wayno is right 85/86... but yes I think you could do that... as far as I ever heard the only difference was the speedometer drive... Wayno I think he has a 4x4, so I dont think the long tail transmission would work for him.... Quote Link to comment
pipefitter Posted March 24, 2020 Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 Thanks Wayno , sorry for stepping on your thread Hillbilly , that’s why Ratsun is so cool you can be reading any kind of post and see stuff you you need to figure out and someone always sets you straight. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 24, 2020 Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 2 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: The 720 4x4 have a short tail because of the transfer case... but the speedo drive is in the transfer case not the transmission.... and the 85/86 2 wheel drive also has a short tail but has the speedometer drive, the are still a 71b.... with a bellhousing swap they are a nice upgrade for the 521s and 510 with an L series and the 63 series 4 spd..... Edited the years ... I'm sure wayno is correct.... Long and short transmissions are used with the transfer case. Short trans, long primary drive shaft... Long trans shirt primary drive shaft... 1 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 24, 2020 Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 Thanks for the correction Quote Link to comment
pipefitter Posted March 24, 2020 Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 Thanks all you guys now I know what to look for Quote Link to comment
Idaho Hillbilly Posted March 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2020 Got some cleaning done on the frame with the wire wheel... lots to go yet! Hit the floors in the cab i'll be using a little as well Got the glass out of this one too The T5 transmission that will eventually end up in there Stripped the 2.3 down to do an internal check... not the worst I've seen, but surely not the best. I'll get her all cleaned up, hone the cylinders, check the head over, throw some new rings/bearings in there and be good to go for now. Quote Link to comment
Idaho Hillbilly Posted March 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2020 Ok, hitting a small road block (mostly mentally). I'd really like to swap the front clip from the red truck over to the other... it's in far better (unmolested) condition and shows no signs of damage. Other than the one rust hole posted above, its far superior. I'm not a body guy, what is the best approach here? Do I make a solid vertical cut from the firewall down or would I be better off trying to follow the factory spot weld seam by drilling out or chiseling the welds and then reattaching that way? or just leave it the way it is and save the hassle... LOL Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted March 27, 2020 Report Share Posted March 27, 2020 Start with a lot of measuring so you know what dimensions you're aiming for. Measure everything possible to measure Can either measure out and cut the inner fenders or drill out the spot welds, I would think the spot welds would be the easiest route because then you could just weld back in in the same location. Measuring and cutting makes more space/time for you to acrew up and be a tenth of an inch off 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted March 28, 2020 Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 That motor, while not the prettiest is incredibly evenly worn/ugly/crudified across all the cylinders. That's a really good sign. Quote Link to comment
Idaho Hillbilly Posted March 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2020 On 3/27/2020 at 8:45 PM, Lockleaf said: That motor, while not the prettiest is incredibly evenly worn/ugly/crudified across all the cylinders. That's a really good sign. For sure. These things are known for cracked heads, so that's been my biggest concern getting in to it. Other than that, they are quite bulletproof and guys are regularly running them up to 400hp on the stock internals. I had originally planned to throw new bearings and rings it in, but having been in there, i'm not even sure I will (kind of a if it aint broke don't fix it mentality) haha. The other side of me says, "you're already there, just do it"... we'll see who wins 😄 Thankfully, this motor should be an easy pull down the road if it ever comes down to it. Quote Link to comment
Idaho Hillbilly Posted April 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 Not much for exciting progress to show here over the last couple weeks. Lots of wire wheel action and started to work on welding little holes in the cab. Found that the passenger side floorboard is a little thinner than I had thought... there were/are about 10 very small rust holes in it. While trying to weld them shut, I keep blowing through... even with the welder turned down about as low as I can. Not sure what to do about that yet. I can stand on it without any real flex, so I think it's solid enough to keep, but I want the holes gone. Anyone use the ebay floor pans or know of a source for better ones? Got a few supplies in for when I get that figured out though... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 8, 2020 Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 Carefully storing the por 15..... you really need to get it sealed up tight when done and dont get any in the area the cover goes or it will never come off.... I usually divide mine into what I am about to use now and then por the rest into some 1 quart container I got from home depot..... The biggest thing is keeping the rim clean when you put the cover on.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Idaho Hillbilly Posted April 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2020 Worked on the truck a little more this weekend. Had a bunch of front end parts show up, so I moved away from body work for the time being. Got all new bushings for the control arms, upper/lower ball joints, all tierod ends, new rotors, calipers and brake pads... will be like-new when back together. Got the bed pulled from the chassis as well for some more cleaning. Shops starting to feel a little full of parts 😕. Need to start going back together instead of further apart. [ Didn't get the nickname pigpen in the shop for no reason at all... yeesh. Quote Link to comment
bottomwatcher Posted April 14, 2020 Report Share Posted April 14, 2020 Yeah I had some POR 15 solidify and came up with the ingenious idea to get the remainder out by poking a hole in the bottom of the can with a nail. That shit came spraying out getting into my right eye, face and my hair. I ran from the shop to the garden hose and while flushing my eye had the wife call poison control. It burned but didn't cause any damage. The water from the hose sped up the curing process and my face was covered. It took a couple of days for the stuff to come off my nose. A few more days for the rest of the face and the only way to get it out of my hair was cutting it. It was like someone had poured fiberglass resin in my hair. I am very careful around that stuff now but it is good stuff. 1 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 14, 2020 Report Share Posted April 14, 2020 That's called face glazing... Quote Link to comment
Idaho Hillbilly Posted April 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2020 Hit the chassis with the POR15 degreaser and ran it through the pressure washer to get everything removed well Missed a picture of the metal prep... but here's the first coat of POR15 and the 2nd coat on and ready to sit overnight. Now I can finally start moving the other direction!! 3 Quote Link to comment
Idaho Hillbilly Posted April 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2020 Also purchased these the other day (looking forward to the fun stuff and couldn't help myself). They showed up in the mail today so I'll get some pictures after work 🙂 Quote Link to comment
Idaho Hillbilly Posted April 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 A couple more pictures of the cured product... this stuff is pretty neat. I'm not gonna go beating on it, but it sure feels durable to the touch?! 1 Quote Link to comment
Idaho Hillbilly Posted May 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2020 Getting the front end back together. Anyone ever had their stock front calipers/pads fit too tight from new? Can't get the pistons to push back any further... one side I was at least able to get them over the new rotor but drag heavy. Other side I can't get even get the caliper all the way on. What gives? How far should the pistons on these push in? Quote Link to comment
Idaho Hillbilly Posted May 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2020 Found that the new rotors (bought from RA) were just too thick I guess... had about .015" machined off and everything went together just fine. Maybe still a little more rotating resistance than I'd prefer, but I think they'll be ok. If not, I'll have a little more taken off down the road. Got the girls to help me paint control arms and a few other small bits I didn't coat in the POR15 and then got the front end put back together. Rear diff is painted and back in as well. Worked out a deal with a body guy to trade some labor / materials. I'll be rebuilding a c6 and 4l60e for him and maybe doing some other work in trade for some body/paint work on this ol' girl 🙂 That's a little exciting, because I was just gonna throw it back on there and deal with body/paint down the road a couple years 😄 1 Quote Link to comment
Idaho Hillbilly Posted May 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 After my brake troubles, I found this kit on Ebay from ZCarDepot... Anyone ever installed this kit? I can't find it on their website anywhere. They haven't responded to any of my messages asking where I would find pads down the road either. They look very similar to the Z car calipers they list on their website in the 2nd link. I've never heard of Z cars being interchangeable with the 620's.... anyone have input?EBAY 620 brake caliper upgrade kit Z Car caliper on zcardepot.com Quote Link to comment
Idaho Hillbilly Posted May 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 As an FYI, this is the response I received from them... not sure if that means the 72-78 z car calipers are what they're using or not... anyone ever tried that before? "This part is only available on our ebay store. It will bolt in using the existing rotor. The stock 620 pads will work, or 70-78 240Z/280Z pads." Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 6, 2020 Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 Dont know much about the brake kit but i have never heard bad things about zcardepot .... I would expect it should do what they say.... Also I saw a 4 piston kit at the bottom of the ebay ad from zcardepot also for only a few bucks more..... Quote Link to comment
Idaho Hillbilly Posted May 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 4 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: Dont know much about the brake kit but i have never heard bad things about zcardepot .... I would expect it should do what they say.... Also I saw a 4 piston kit at the bottom of the ebay ad from zcardepot also for only a few bucks more..... Yeah, I'm intrigued. Talking with Mike in another thread, it appears that they are just using the 240/280z caliper and/or the toyota calipers like they do on the Z cars... Seems easier than doing the D21 swap that everyone does (at least for the stock disc brake guys). Quote Link to comment
Idaho Hillbilly Posted May 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 Oooooo, shiny!! Wasn't Should come out about like this... Quote Link to comment
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