Rebuild begins!

[datzenmike]

The coil case can be grounded but the negative side of the coil is grounded through the ignition module inside the distributor. The grounding of the case really doesn't matter.

 

 

Usually the battery negative cable is bolted to the body near the battery and then continues over to the intake on the engine. This way the body and the engine have good ground returns.

 

So was there 12 v on both coils??

 

 

Yes I can''t find the picture but someone commented that I was Walter Wright. I had to look that up.

 

 

[jagman]

Mike, I checked the voltage on both coils and have 12 volts but am seeing an intermittent ground to them.  I turned the engine over and got one backfire then nothing.  I will have another chance to get back at it Sunday I hope.  Be Well.

[datzenmike]

Where are you measuring a ground? Power flows in the + through the coil and out the - then to the module in the distributor which is an electronic switch to ground. If you measure while running you will see it pulse when the distributor grounds it on and off.

[jagman]

Mike, 

I wired the distributor directly to ground on the engine bypassing the original wire. I wired the coils as original.  The distributor was set to center on the advance adjustment and I tried to start it.  It fired once then Nada.  Moving the advance to retarded and advanced brought no joy.

[jagman]

I finally got back to the truck and found the carb choke plates stuck closed due to backfire. I cleaned the plates and they are free now but I ran out of battery before I could try to start it.  I checked for fire on the plugs ( I got fire on #1 cylinder from both ).  I will try the start again when I have recharged the battery.  Thanks, Steve

[jagman]

Mike,  I tried to fire her up and with the dizzy set to the center of the adjustment range I got a backfire. Moving the adjustment from full retard (that would also apply to me ) to full advance nothing fired.  At this point what do you suggest I do?  Should I start over?

[datzenmike]

Not following why you grounded the distributor as it grounds through it's mount on the engine. There is no original ground wire.

[jagman]

Then what is the wire to the distributor near the vacuum advance if not a ground?

 

[datzenmike]

Not familiar with it. Got a picture of it?

[jagman]

I will pull the dizzy and photograph the spade connection. 

[datzenmike]

Is this an '80 with an L20B???

[jagman]

No. This is a z24 .  It is a titled 86 720 Regular Cab  long bed.

[datzenmike]

L series sometimes had a dedicated ground terminal on the outside of the distributor. Haven't seen this on a Z series. Only saying I have never seen this.

[jagman]

OK Mike I got pics of the dizzy and coils.  some problems with the damn camera and the uploads.  Too old -  not smart.  https://postimg.cc/gallery/rpvM7FH can't seem to " insert image from url "

[datzenmike]

 

OK almost the same as the L series. Never noticed them before.

 

 

There are 2 coils, right?

[jagman]

Yes, I have two coils .  I have been looking at the Haynes wiring diagram and have found that the wire I disconnected from the dizzy is supposed to go to a condenser.

I have no idea where to look for that or what it looks like other than three wires are connected to it. There isn't any normal looking condenser near the coils or the dizzy.  I will reconnect that wire but don't think that will improve the outcome.  If anyone has a better diagram for an 86 std cab, std equipment 720 I could use it.

Edited April 19, 2020 by jagman
more info

[jagman]

I found the little square box that seems to be the condenser under the coil closest to the firewall on the drivers side.  I connected the wire to the distributor. I left the plug wires on the dizzy as they were with the ignition wires on the inner ring.  The inner ring plug #1 is at 9 o:clock pointing to the radiator.  In another post it was mentioned that the ignition wires should be on the outer ring and that there can be another tdc. I have piston 1 at tdc with the cam lobes at about 8 o:clock on the intake and at about  4 o:clock on the exhaust.  I know that I am missing something simple somewhere but I am too stupid to see it.  Hell, at this point I would put my $1,200.00 payment  toward flying Mike and his family here to Virginia! 

[datzenmike]

 

Turn the engine ONE complete turn and set on TDC. The front lobe (exhaust) should be 8 and the second one (intake) at 4. You're 180 out is all. TDC on the compression stroke both #1 cylinder valves should be closed.

 

 IF and WHEN You get TDC on #1 cylinder and the cam lobes are at 8 and 4 ..... take the distributor out and look in the hole. You should see this...

 

 

NOTE that there is a small and large half moon. Small side is to the front. If it's to the right than the distributor is in 180. (it happens and is fixable)

[jagman]

ALL RIGHT MIKE.............

She fires. She runs at idle.  I still have to put a timing light on her but she RUNS.  I was one plug setting off on the distributor. I had to move I1 from the horizontal to the next hole advanced.

Will wonders never cease!!!!!

[datzenmike]

The drive spindle is probably put in wrong.... by wrong I only mean not what everyone else sets it at. As long is it runs and you can set the timing the engine will never know or care.

[jagman]

Thank you Mike for your advice and perseverance in leading the dumb and blind to a successful conclusion.  I took her for a run today after timing her at 12 degrees BTC. She runs great but I must be off on the valve clearance on two valves which I will adjust. After she warmed up I hear a whistling sound coming from the passenger side of the engine at idle. I'm hoping it is a vacuum leak but moving the lines and the blocking plugs didn't change the sound.

Thank you again

[bilzbobaggins]

If its a weber, check the adapter plate.  I have put one on and did not torque the bolts in a very wise pattern and had a high whistling vacuum leak from it.

 

Cancel that, you said passenger side.

Edited May 12, 2020 by bilzbobaggins
oops

[jagman]

bilzbobaggins you were right on the money with your advice. I found two of the hold down nuts loose and tightened them VIOLA! whistle gone. Thanks  Steve