datzenmike Posted January 20, 2020 Report Share Posted January 20, 2020 Engine must be at TDC on the number one cylinder compression stroke. 1 Quote Link to comment
jagman Posted January 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2020 Thanks to you that job is now complete!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
jagman Posted January 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2020 Now I am awaiting my order for studs to mount the intake manifold. Should be in Monday. I noticed that the engine has no thermostat and that the housing has no provision for one. I checked an old housing from a 240 Z engine and that has a separate body for a thermostat but won"t fit the Z24 mount. I'm sure it won't hurt to run without a thermostat here since most of the year it would be wide open anyway but it seems strange to not see one. When I begin to reassemble the air conditioning I would like to replace the o-rings in the connections but can't find a supplier for the NOS parts. I may be able to find a "right size" if I knew what size I need. Anyone out there been there done that? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 26, 2020 Report Share Posted January 26, 2020 If the intake has no recess for the thermostat to sit in, then the thermostat cover has it. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 26, 2020 Report Share Posted January 26, 2020 Do you have an A/C shop in town? They will have all the o-rings. I think the o-rings are color coded for their different ratings. 1 Quote Link to comment
jagman Posted January 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2020 Where I live we are lucky to have any shop at all! I was told that there are kits on RockAuto that include the o-rings. I will check that out if no one here has bad experiences with them. I also found the thermostat on the intake manifold so that problem is solved. At my age it is a wonder I remember my . I forgot what I was going to say. Thanks again for your patience and support! 2 Quote Link to comment
jagman Posted February 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2020 The rebuilt engine is now all together. I have to move the truck to the lift to pull the old engine. Tried to do it today but I haven't the ass to move it on my own so I will get help on tuesday. I also beat the dent in the front fender out a bit so the junker bumper would fit. It's not bent! Altogether I will have a nice little truck for hauling mowers with all the accessories it's supposed to have (maybe). I still have the heat and air to check. I plan to do that after I get it running. 1 Quote Link to comment
jagman Posted February 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2020 Well, the aheader I get the behinder I am. I got the truck on the lift and the engine and tranny in place after finding that the new pilot bearing was slightly under sized after insertion into the crank. Today I hope to finish the lift work by hanging the exhaust and drive shaft. When I had the tranny out last time I put 30 weight oil in it to clean it. I only drove it for a week before the engine burned it's last oil. I will drain the 30 weight after I get it running again and replace it with the 80-90. I pulled the plugs on the old engine and all of them were so fouled that its a wonder they fired at all! I may not work better but I am sure as Hell slower! 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 9, 2020 Report Share Posted February 9, 2020 The pilot bushing is powdered bronze shaped under high pressure then heated enough to barely fuse it together. It's then porous and holds oil. It is very soft so it should be tapped into place holding a wooden block over it so it doesn't distort. 1 Quote Link to comment
jagman Posted February 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2020 Hi Mike, I used a large diameter brass drift and gently tapped it into place after I had tested the inner diameter with the clutch alignment tool. I bought it from Rockauto but I think the manufacturer was a little tight on the specs. I hand reamed it to the mic'd od of the input shaft. Now I am having a problem mounting the belt for the power steering unit. You would think I would remember how I took it off..... but NO! I may be missing an idler but don't think so. 2 Quote Link to comment
jagman Posted February 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2020 Everything is together and the pump shaft is positioned as your pictures indicate. The distributor cap is wired per the book. I tried to fire it up and NADA. I checked the output from the coils and the one in the front had none. I tried to check the wiring schematic per the book (useless) to find the origin of the two wires to that coil. I pulled power from the rear coil and now have spark from the front coil. I have rechecked the distributor shaft position and the cap wiring but she still won't fire. I am stumped as to what I am doing wrong. Is the rotor adjustable? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 19, 2020 Report Share Posted February 19, 2020 Check the fuse on the far left of the fuse box. The one closest the driver's door. It's first I think. 1 Quote Link to comment
jagman Posted February 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2020 SEVERAL THINGS: I rechecked the entire timing from the chain positioning to the distributor shaft setting and found that I had the cam set wrong on the pulley ( fixed that) and put it into the number two setting along with the chain. I checked the fuses---- none blown. I will try to get a rumble out of her today if I can brave the cold for that long. Thanks.. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 21, 2020 Report Share Posted February 21, 2020 Visual check on a glass fuse is a waste of time. They often get hot and melt internally at the ends where you can't see. Test with an ohm meter or replace. The second coil is powered from the first fuse. No power... no exhaust side plugs fire. Intakes are powered directly from the ignition switch. I don't know why Nissan set it up this way. 2 Quote Link to comment
jagman Posted February 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2020 Mike I don't see any glass fuses in the fuse block. They are the standard bayonet type. Should I be looking some where in the wiring for an inline fuse? Right now both coils are powered from the ignition switch cause I wired both together. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 21, 2020 Report Share Posted February 21, 2020 Was only half way through my first coffee. 😄 Wiring together will work. 2 Quote Link to comment
jagman Posted February 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2020 Mike, You are sharp without your coffee. I am going to take pics of what I have and post them as soon as I can find a working camera. My wife has 3 and won't let me use her good one so I am forced to make one of the old ones work. Will post as soon as I can get the card and battery for it. Work is the bane of the drinking man!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
jagman Posted March 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2020 Well, like everything else I ordered the new batteries for the camera and they arrived DOA so no camera yet but I have rechecked all the timing settings. Cam sprocket on 2, chain on 2, crank on mark, distributor rewired for the ignition plugs to fire from the inner ring. All valve lash set for 12 thousands cold. I am having no luck firing her up an can't understand why. I have checked fuel and it is getting to the carb. I have fire at the plugs. What timing issue have I missed? 1 Quote Link to comment
Madkaw Posted March 14, 2020 Report Share Posted March 14, 2020 Is it popping out the exhaust or carb? Any fire at all? If you have fuel and spark it should fire . 1 Quote Link to comment
jagman Posted March 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2020 OK, I have set the crankshaft to TDC and pulled the cam cover to check that the number 1 cylinder valves are closed. They are, but the silver timing chain link is no longer on the 2 mark on the cam sprocket. I don't know whether it is supposed to stay on the mark when it is turned over multiple times. I have tried to take pictures of the cam and will attempt to post them here along with a few pics of the truck. https://postimg.cc/0KwvfGbt Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 16, 2020 Report Share Posted March 16, 2020 jagman I think on my video I made it mentions it takes like 4 rotations for it to come back in the correct spot.The Link The link is for initial set up after that just rotate the crank to zero and then look up at the V notch and dash on the cam sprocket plate and it should line up. rotate at the crank so the chain is tight pulling the cam to the right. 1 Quote Link to comment
Madkaw Posted March 17, 2020 Report Share Posted March 17, 2020 20 hours ago, jagman said: OK, I have set the crankshaft to TDC and pulled the cam cover to check that the number 1 cylinder valves are closed. They are, but the silver timing chain link is no longer on the 2 mark on the cam sprocket. I don't know whether it is supposed to stay on the mark when it is turned over multiple times. I have tried to take pictures of the cam and will attempt to post them here along with a few pics of the truck. https://postimg.cc/0KwvfGbt If you have the timing cover pulled - then just set engine TDC COMPRESSION STROKE and reset chain . Take it off and reinstall using bright links and marks on crankshaft sprocket and cam sprocket Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 17, 2020 Report Share Posted March 17, 2020 Use extreme caution if turning the crankshaft with the cam disconnected. If a valve is open, a piston can hit it if turned. Fit the chain bright links to the dots on the cam and crank sprockets... then set to TDC. Quote Link to comment
jagman Posted March 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2020 I pulled the timing cover off before this and made sure that I set the chain on the marks with the crank and number one piston TDC. I reassembled the timing cover and set the valve lash. I set the oil pump and dizzy shaft per the diagram mike provided. The engine fired for several revolutions and died. I actually restarted it and it ran for a minute or so since then nothing. I looked at the machinists work sheet and he decked the head and the block but does not specify the amount removed from either. Could this be a problem? The number one cam lobes are pointed at 7 o:clock on the intake and 11 o:clock on the exhaust with the piston up in the cylinder. If I had any wits I'd be at the end of them! Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 17, 2020 Report Share Posted March 17, 2020 I don't get taking the timing cover off before statement. Once you line it up its set . you don't even need to take the valve cover off. just look in the oil cap hole and see if the cam lobe is in the 10 o clock position. then the crank should be near zero or set it for zero. maybe turn it CCW for a few degress then roll it back clockwise to the zero mark on the crank timing mark then the love should be in the 10 o clock position and the dist should be on #1 plus wire. then start the ruck and adjust the distributor till you get it running Hopefully you primed the oil pump with oil when you installed it!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
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