Plate over Weber adapter cracked

[Thegreek]

Hey guys...new to the forum. So I bought the 620 2 months ago from someone who did a weber swap. Truck ran fine, then started an awful squeal from the carb. Realized that the carb was loose, so instead of tightening the adapter to the manifold, I kept cranking down on nuts and studs til I heard a crack. It's not the bottom plate but the top one. So it ran like even more shit after that and the only way it would idle was half-choked. Someone told me to back the idle screw which helped temporarily. I order a new adapter kit, but now she doesnt want to even run. Also I noticed that even when it ran fine in the beginning, the fuel filter would empty if the truck sat for more than a day.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[datzenmike]

Gas may be siphoning back into the tank. This shouldn't be a problem as all carbs have a float chamber full of gas... enough for starting and driving half a block... enough time for the pump to draw fresh gas from the tank.

[Crashtd420]

If its had a vacuum leak for a while it may have been adjusted rich to compansate  ...

I would probably get a fresh set of ngk plugs, and reset the idle and air fuel on the carb....

[Thegreek]

40 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Gas may be siphoning back into the tank. This shouldn't be a problem as all carbs have a float chamber full of gas... enough for starting and driving half a block... enough time for the pump to draw fresh gas from the tank.

Thanks!

[Thegreek]

39 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

If its had a vacuum leak for a while it may have been adjusted rich to compansate  ...

I would probably get a fresh set of ngk plugs, and reset the idle and air fuel on the carb....

Can someone tell the correct steps for doin so? Do I have to run them all the way in first? Out?

[Crashtd420]

Idle screw back all the way out ..

Screw in till it just starts to open the throttle... 1/2 turn in...

Air/fuel screw all the way in, then 2 and a half turns out.... this should get you started....

Once warm adjust the idle as low as you can but keep it running....

Then adjust the air fuel....

Slowly turn in till it stumbles or increases the idle ...

You want to find where the air/fuel screw will increase the idle then start to drop, back up to just before it just started to drop....

Then set your idle..  

[Thegreek]

2 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

Idle screw back all the way out ..

Screw in till it just starts to open the throttle... 1/2 turn in...

Air/fuel screw all the way in, then 2 and a half turns out.... this should get you started....

Once warm adjust the idle as low as you can but keep it running....

Then adjust the air fuel....

Slowly turn in till it stumbles or increases the idle ...

You want to find where the air/fuel screw will increase the idle then start to drop, back up to just before it just started to drop....

Then set your idle..  

Wow...ok...my brains turning 2 1/2 turns...haha

Once I get the adapter kit, I'll give it a try...thanks man.

[Crashtd420]

No problem. ... I see your east coast.... i am a bit north of you in mass with a 521...

Try to get some pics up while you wait for the adapter.... we like pics.....

How is the rest of the truck?

Oh and be careful with the next adapter... as you found out they dont like to be over tightened.....

[Thegreek]

5 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

No problem. ... I see your east coast.... i am a bit north of you in mass with a 521...

Try to get some pics up while you wait for the adapter.... we like pics.....

How is the rest of the truck?

Oh and be careful with the next adapter... as you found out they dont like to be over tightened.....

Rest of the truck is solid...came from Washington State. Only other problem is an oil leak just behind the oil pan....about a quart a week. From what the seller in south jersey told me, he bought it in Washington State with 20 miles on a rebuilt motor, and then drove it back to Jersey. Kids got balls...haha. Anyway, he said he put 8000 miles on it in 2 years....cant tell cuz speedo and odo dont work.

[Crashtd420]

Sounds good, give it a good wash to figure out where the oil is actually coming from.... hopefully they didnt mess up the rear main seal.... 

Probably the oil pan gasket....

Dont over tighten those bolts either.

I've done the oil pan gasket twice on my L16, and still have a leak.....

I'm planning to redo it again this winter and use form a gasket

instead of the cork gasket....

 

As far as the speedometer,  check the cable to get started.... mine actually separated where it screws into the back of the speedometer... 

Other thing is you can disconnect from the transmission and try and spin the inside.... use a drill to slowly rotate it and see if the speedo and odometer move, if they do the problem is with the transmission speedo gear.... 

Edited November 29, 2018 by Crashtd420

[wayno]

I am sure you meant something else Crash, you can easily over tighten the oil pan bolts.

When the oil pan is off the first thing you have to do after cleaning it is check each oil pan mount bolt hole and make sure that is has not been tightened to the point where it pulled the center of the hole towards where the block and is making a slight funnel shape, that hole area needs to be flat just like the rest of the oil pan mount surface, if you can set the pan on a flat surface and see any sort of gap at all they need to be pounded flat again, I just use a hammer on each hole till flat again.

 

[Crashtd420]

Yup I edited it.... didnt sound right when I re read it....

Edited November 29, 2018 by Crashtd420

[Thegreek]

1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:

Sounds good, give it a good wash to figure out where the oil is actually coming from.... hopefully they didnt mess up the rear main seal.... 

Probably the oil pan gasket....

Dont over tighten those bolts either.

I've done the oil pan gasket twice on my L16, and still have a leak.....

I'm planning to redo it again this winter and use form a gasket

instead of the cork gasket....

 

As far as the speedometer,  check the cable to get started.... mine actually separated where it screws into the back of the speedometer... 

Other thing is you can disconnect from the transmission and try and spin the inside.... use a drill to slowly rotate it and see if the speedo and odometer move, if they do the problem is with the transmission speedo gear.... 

I just got a new cable...havent put it in yet cuz I've been dealing with the carb issues. I found one on ebay for under 30 bucks new.

[banzai510(hainz)]

some kits have a thin 1/4 in adapater plate that may crack if overtighten then youll have idle issues,

PUlling the choke will give more vaccume to suck gas thru the venturis and thus run to get home. This is another way to get home also if the idle jet is plugged form a rusted/dirty gas tank.

 

there are the 2 piece adatpaters also which Im not sure how they work but if you heard a crack then its most like it. Once fixed and adjusted if still issue then its the points ignitions

Edited November 30, 2018 by banzai510(hainz)

[Thegreek]

7 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

some kits have a thin 1/4 in adapater plate that may crack if overtighten then youll have idle issues,

PUlling the choke will give more vaccume to suck gas thru the venturis and thus run to get home. This is another way to get home also if the idle jet is plugged form a rusted/dirty gas tank.

 

there are the 2 piece adatpaters also which Im not sure how they work but if you heard a crack then its most like it. Once fixed and adjusted if still issue then its the points ignitions

Thanks man.

[Thegreek]

Ok....so....took everything off down to the top of manilfold...got it nice and clean.....gasket, adapter, blue loctite on the threads, gasket, spacer, loctite on the threads, studs, gasket, carb, nuts.....

 

 

Fired right up and purrs like a kitten!!!!!!