Seeker > 620 KC Posted November 8, 2018 Report Share Posted November 8, 2018 My 79 620 door VIN plate doesn't look anything like that one. The "incomplete vehicle" reference probably means it was originally sold to a US company or an individual as a running cab and chassis only without a bed. US companies would special order trucks this way, then mount a flat bed, tool service bed, chassis mounted camper, or something other than a regular bed. Since the tag says the truck was mfg in 2/79 I would guess that is the year the cab and chassis vehicle first sold to a US company or even a customer, probably special ordered. I doubt the vehicle came with an alternate from Japan with an alternate bed, but suppose it is possible. But, all the supporting owner's manual and supporting paper work says 1978. I speculate it was actually manufactured in 1978 and could have been sitting in Japan for that long, or at a US distribution facility, or even at a dealer. Then, the company who manufactured the service bed or camper then generated the new 1979 VIN sticker when they finalized their modifications and when it sold to a customer. The original antenna holes on the passenger side cab leg support it being a 1978 truck (or earlier, but I doubt it.) Also the dash does not have center vents for the AC original, nor does the center console have the control switch where the upper delete plate is. This vehicle more than likely never had original or aftermarket AC. Hope this helps! Quote Link to comment
Seeker > 620 KC Posted November 8, 2018 Report Share Posted November 8, 2018 P.S. It also doesn't have a condenser in front of the radiator, another supporting fact it didn't have AC. And DatzenMike's observation about the fender badges not having the 1979 Datsun "by Nissan" fencer badges also supports it is a 1978 620. Quote Link to comment
Justin620datsun Posted November 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2018 Ok. I dont know a lot about the history on these things. Great info and good to know stuff. Quote Link to comment
Justin620datsun Posted November 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2018 So my truck might have been a camper at some point? Or could it have had the bed instead? Quote Link to comment
Justin620datsun Posted November 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2018 also this isn't factory is it? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 9, 2018 Report Share Posted November 9, 2018 That chrome bumper isn't. The tail pipe is normally a little closer to the left rear tail light. Have never ever seen that style build tag on the door jam. You can see the holes for the screws. Looks somewhat official. I think the Cab/Chassis was '78-'79, although there were Camper models before this. Quote Link to comment
Justin620datsun Posted November 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2018 Ok. And that isn't the tail pipe. It looks like a camper tie down point or something. The exhaust stops at the muffler under the bed for some reason. So it's a 78? Just sold in 79 then? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 9, 2018 Report Share Posted November 9, 2018 I would say a '78 cab on a '79 frame. Since the bodies are (virtually) the same, there is no real fraud here. All Cab/Chassis car numbers start ELH 620 ?????? as this one does... ELH 620 360,432 Car numbers are 310,001 - 375,000 for '78 It would seem this is a '78 year number... Car numbers are 357001-?????? for '79 The top of the frame just forward of the right side engine mount and behind the alternator also has the car number stamped into the steel. Wire brush or sand paper will bring it up. The Vehicle Emission Control Information is '78. They are very strict about the emission sticker. It must apply to the year stated. The glove box manual is '78 Does say incomplete vehicle at bottom. What are the numbers at the very bottom???? Quote Link to comment
Justin620datsun Posted November 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2018 Ok as long as I dont run into issues with parts and title stuff it being possible different year cab and chassis I'm not worried about it. It is interesting how they did things back then. I'm unsure of the numbers down there. They dont look much cleaner in person. Anyways I put new spark plugs, cap,and rotor on it yesterday. Seems to have helped the dieseling a lot. I'm happy with it now. I have a slight valve cover gasket leak which doesn't surprise me. What brand do you guys recommend? Btw thanks for all the info on this old girl. Quote Link to comment
Seeker > 620 KC Posted November 12, 2018 Report Share Posted November 12, 2018 21 hours ago, Justin620datsun said: Ok as long as I dont run into issues with parts and title stuff it being possible different year cab and chassis I'm not worried about it. Mike knows much more about these than I do, he’s prob right about the year. The good news is, most of the operating parts ( water pump, brakes, fuel pump, bearings, body seals,) etc for 78-79 620 are all the same part numbers! Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted November 12, 2018 Report Share Posted November 12, 2018 An AC truck will also have a shallow glove box to fit the ac up behind the dash. Quote Link to comment
Justin620datsun Posted November 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2018 Sweet! That was my biggest issue. So my window seals for the door are pretty toast. And recommendations for brand and where to get them? Quote Link to comment
Spawn Posted November 16, 2018 Report Share Posted November 16, 2018 On 11/12/2018 at 2:24 PM, Justin620datsun said: Sweet! That was my biggest issue. So my window seals for the door are pretty toast. And recommendations for brand and where to get them? Which seals are you referring to? The ones that go around the top side of the glass in the channel of the door frame, or the ones that are down at the bottom of the glass where the glass rolls down into the door itself? Quote Link to comment
Justin620datsun Posted November 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2018 Where the glass goes into the door. Half of them are missing and the others are dry rotted. 1 Quote Link to comment
Spawn Posted November 17, 2018 Report Share Posted November 17, 2018 I'm in a similar state. Mine are dried out and allow the window to rattle in an out depending on the bumps, wind pressure at speed, etc. The only thing that I've seen for replacing are parts from Thailand, but they take forever to get here. ? Quote Link to comment
Justin620datsun Posted November 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 (edited) Yeah mine does the same thing. And damn that's what I was afraid of. I'll just deal with it for now. But I'm having another startup issue. Surprise surprise I know. When I go to start my truck usually in the morning but its random. It wont start. No crank, nothing. But I hook my jump box up to it it tries to start. My starter cranks for a second and then stops. Could my ignition solenoid or switch be bad? It is frustrating because it will be fine for a few days and then something else happens. Any ideas? Keep in mind if checked all the connections to the alternator, battery and starter which I replaced of course. So what could it be? I'll try to get a video tomorrow. Do you guys think I have a draw somewhere? Edited November 18, 2018 by Justin620datsun Quote Link to comment
Justin620datsun Posted November 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2018 took her for drive today. I installed a "kill switch" not so much for protection but to cut power while I'm not driving it. In case I have a drain of power somewhere. I'm thinking my ignition cylinder might be bad? Like I said it's a pain to get started sometimes even with the jump box I have. But seems to only do it in the morning. I'm stumped. Any suggestions on how to track this issue down? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 19, 2018 Report Share Posted November 19, 2018 (edited) about 40 secs in to the vid this is what you do to see if a short . then pull a fuse to find the circut that is draining. then pull stuff of that circut till the drain stops. SIMPLE. maybe something was added and wasnt done right. a wires smashed and grounding out ect..... If ignition circut its a shorted alternator maybe volt reg(just unplug and see if test light goes out. of if soemone convert to a IR alternator the choke relays on carb is engaged thus draining the battery. But since you have a 79 its most likley not the choke relay(but you can unplug it and see ) Edited November 19, 2018 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
Justin620datsun Posted November 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2018 Great info. On my next days off I will try this. Thanks. No lights are left on so I'm thinking it's a loose wire or something. Quote Link to comment
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