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MarkB.

Ignition on - I got nothing.

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So thirty minutes later I have 9V.

 

Here's another clue:  if I touch both of the bolts on the back of the starter solenoid I get the same 9V as I'm getting at the fuse box.  And as I said, the battery is putting out 12.45V

 

The solenoid was checked at O'Reilly's but now I'm starting to wonder.

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Clean the battery posts and cables, both of them.

 

Now take the positive battery cable off the starter and clean it and the contact for the fusible link. A wire brush should do.

 

For good measure clean the negative battery cable where it bolts to the head.

 

Last find and clean the negative wire to the body sheet metal..... I think it's connected to one of the bolts holding the voltage regulator onto the fender.  Make sure it's metal to metal contact

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Did it.

 

I cleaned the posts on the battery and the connectors.  I unbolted and cleaned the ground cable from battery to frame.  I took the cable from the battery off the starter solenoid (it still read 12.45 V) and wire brushed it until it shone.  I did the same for the fusible link circle connector.  I took apart the fusible link and clean both ends of the blade and the connector (they were filthy)  I also cleaned the ground wire blade and connector on the back of the starter solenoid. and then put it all back together.

 

Battery reads 12.45V.  Opening the connector for the fusible link, the female (solenoid side) shows 12.45V.

 

But if I hook it up I only have 9.8V at the fuse box.  It seems to be very slowly increasing voltage as before, just faster.

 

.

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Try making a solid wire jumper to go around the fusible link putting voltage directly from the starter to the fuse box. You will want at least a 12 gauge thickness wire for this.This will eliminate the fusible link as the cause.... if it is the cause. This will get you by if it fixes the problem but should really be replaced as soon as you can with a proper fusible link.

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soemthing is loose or corroded

could be some others issues?

Battery charged?alternator shorting out ? cracked lug on battery cable  Im just winging it now but I think ts a fasable link lug up to the fuse box no making a good connection which causes a load and draws down the voltage

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Clean the fuse box before you burn something up!!

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Well, back at it.

 

I came to the same conclusion as Hainz; there's gotta be something else wrong.  Charlie's post made me think. . . .

 

So I took all of the fuses out of the fuse box and tested the "hot" side of each fuse holder.  I reconnected the "possibly" bad fusible and got 12.4+V on the hot side of the fuse holders on the right side of the fuse box and the lowest holder on the left.  The other three fuse holders all read 0V.  To be clear, the fuse box holders marked on the lid Flasher (Ign), Wiper and Air Con (Acc) have 0V .  So I think I've eliminated the fusible link and am now looking at the fuse box.

 

I know I'm slow, please stick with me, I want to drive this again soon. 

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Have u ohm'd out fuses when removed from fuse box? Glass fuses can melt internally,but still  look good.

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I had the same problem on my '79 King Cab...turned out it was the Negative battery cable,,,it had a long term case of the greenish oxidation inside the cable and only made sketchy or intermittent contact (even with super clean terminals)...eventually it just quit working...New cable and problem solved.

 

Vicdat

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