Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 24, 2017 Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 Rod and main bearings are available in different materials. The best material is the classic tri-metal construction, but they are getting hard to source. Clevite bearings tend to be tri-metal. If they have a "NDG" stamped on the back of the bearing shell, they are OEM grade. King and other brands are mostly aluminum material and don't hold up well to abuse. They chip and chunk off and muddle and squish under poor running conditions. They do not like detonation (pinging). I would ask your parts house guy if he can find a good tri-metal set of bearings. If he shrugs it off, go find another source. Your machine shop should know the difference. Also, some main bearing sets are full groove, some only have half grooves. If you have the choice, pick the full groove bearings. Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted December 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 Thanks that's great information! I'll remember that when I get in touch with machine shops Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted December 24, 2017 Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 I definitely plan on trading in my harbor freight click style torque wrench for a bar style wrench so I can be accurate. Unless someone has a different recommendation. The HF wrenches aren't inaccurate. Without spending Snap-On money, you really can't go wrong. What torque wrench to buy yourself really depends on what size you need. This is an area where you get what you pay for. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 24, 2017 Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 If the fully grooved bearings are impossible to source get two sets and use only the tops. Make damn sure the oil hole is not obstructed. Factory bearings are not fully grooved and they are fine for the majority of applications.. Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted December 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 If i get what I pay for and i spent 10 bucks then i should probably spend more on a torque wrench haha. I did notice the oil holes and will not forget about them on assembly... Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted December 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 Oh, and Merry Christmas! Thanks for the help guys ☺ 1 Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted January 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2018 Back again. Having trouble sourcing 280zx dished pistons without having to buy used or in a set of 6. Is there any difference between a +0.04" l20b piston and an 86mm 280zx dished? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 4, 2018 Report Share Posted January 4, 2018 they close to the same L20 is like 11.36 and 280zx is like 10.9. most people want the flattop but with cheap gas these days I would just run the dished with a closed chamber head if you rellay need to up the compression Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted January 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2018 I'm not trying to get compression that high but I am using a closed chamber a87 on an l20 block. Hopefully it isn't that high with dished l20 pistons? I'll try to use that calculator thing... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 4, 2018 Report Share Posted January 4, 2018 Closed chamber on L20B is 8.9 so 1mm oversize L20B pistons will be barely just over 9 edit: 9.06 Quote Link to comment
Str8jacket Posted January 5, 2018 Report Share Posted January 5, 2018 Blow through 32/26 weber. Standard engine standard cams. 8 PSI boost. = poor tyre life. Use a td04hl sized turbo or a small blower off 2lt toyota. If you want more to dream about. Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted January 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2018 Hey thanks Mike. That's where I want to be I think. That gives me some wiggle room if I need to deck the block or head Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 5, 2018 Report Share Posted January 5, 2018 If they are still available at the dealer, they sell them individually. 1 Quote Link to comment
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