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ErickwithnoK

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  • Content count

    192
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  • Last visited

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59 Good

About ErickwithnoK

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/13/1995

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oregon
  • Cars
    620
  • Interests
    My new Datsun 620, my church, video games, basketball, art, music, woodworking
  1. ErickwithnoK

    Rebuilding my L20B

    Hey thanks Mike. That's where I want to be I think. That gives me some wiggle room if I need to deck the block or head
  2. ErickwithnoK

    Rebuilding my L20B

    I'm not trying to get compression that high but I am using a closed chamber a87 on an l20 block. Hopefully it isn't that high with dished l20 pistons? I'll try to use that calculator thing...
  3. ErickwithnoK

    Rebuilding my L20B

    Back again. Having trouble sourcing 280zx dished pistons without having to buy used or in a set of 6. Is there any difference between a +0.04" l20b piston and an 86mm 280zx dished?
  4. ErickwithnoK

    Rebuilding my L20B

    Oh, and Merry Christmas! Thanks for the help guys ☺
  5. ErickwithnoK

    Rebuilding my L20B

    If i get what I pay for and i spent 10 bucks then i should probably spend more on a torque wrench haha. I did notice the oil holes and will not forget about them on assembly...
  6. ErickwithnoK

    Rebuilding my L20B

    Thanks that's great information! I'll remember that when I get in touch with machine shops
  7. ErickwithnoK

    Rebuilding my L20B

    L28 dished it is then! Thank you Mike for doing the math for me. Should I rely on the machine shop for bearings seals and head components or source them myself? Is rock auto head stuff junk?
  8. ErickwithnoK

    Rebuilding my L20B

    It's closed chamber. I definitely plan on trading in my harbor freight click style torque wrench for a bar style wrench so I can be accurate. Unless someone has a different recommendation. Wayno I wanna stay away from race motor thing a because it's my first rebuild. Welding inside my distributor sounds a little intimidating and hopefully if I choose the right hardware, unnecessary. It seems like the determining factor is whether or not the block or head have been shaved. I can measure the head with my calipers I think but the block is definitely too tall for that. What should the head height be? Are there other piston options with more or less bore and lower CR?
  9. ErickwithnoK

    Rebuilding my L20B

    Mike, I would prefer to do as straightforward of a process as possible since this is my first rebuild. Would the dished 280zx pistons reduce compression enough to run regular or premium pump gas?
  10. ErickwithnoK

    Rebuilding my L20B

    Reviving this thread. My motor is in a different place than it was this summer, I took all of your advice and chose to wait to build a motor on the side. And I'm ready to move forward with building an l20 for the truck. I bought a 5 speed and an l20b block (bottom end complete, no head) for 180 bucks :thumbup: , and an engine stand for 20. The block has been sitting on the stand for several months now, untouched. I also recently grabbed a complete 620 dash off craigslist from a non-datsun guy for waaaay too cheap, and traded it for an a87 peanut head with a supposed reground (street?) cam and a set of SU's with a manifold. The 5 speed is in, the SU's are up and running, and now I have no excuse not to build the l20 and a87 motor on the side as a winter project since I can still drive my truck. Today I got real ambitious and took apart most of the block I had on the stand. All the peripherals are off, everything but the crank and the freeze plugs are out. Today I used air tools for the first time. GAME CHANGING... I live in the greater Portland area, and am wondering if someone can recommend a machine shop for me? Price is definitely a concern and I would like to do as much as possible in my own garage for the experience and satisfaction. Also in need of a cherry picker... Planning on 280zx flat tops, deck the head and block, hot tank, hone the bearing journal, new seals and gaskets, and if anyone knows of a place to buy rebuild kits for the SU's, I'm having trouble finding one. Cheers guys. [/url]">http:// [/url]">http://http://s1253.photobucket.com/user/erickwithnok/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20171123_074206_zpss6ks0sbo.jpg.html'>
  11. ErickwithnoK

    A couple questions about my 620

    I swapped the wires on the plastic plug and the charge light worked properly (after jumping my dead battery). Let it charge up and it seems to be doing what it should. I have almost 15v charging and the charge light is on at key on, and off when the motor is running. I'll see if the battery drains this time
  12. ErickwithnoK

    A couple questions about my 620

    It was charging at almost 15v and the battery was showing 12 with the engine off, I definitely will check it again tonight as well as the charge light. I definitely don't want to get another alternator, plug it in and have the same problem
  13. ErickwithnoK

    A couple questions about my 620

    So since the alt is made from cheap parts, a DOA part is probably more likely than a wiring issue. I'm hoping that unplugging the alt stops the draw and I'll just take it back and get a new one. If the alt is drawing power it would be through the plastic plug 12v wire right? Or could it also be through the main wire to positive on the battery
  14. ErickwithnoK

    A couple questions about my 620

    I have a multimeter I'll use that to test for battery draw? Thanks for the help guys. I'll get a good picture of my custom plug when I'm home, jump the truck so I can see the charge light is working properly, and start pulling fuses.
  15. ErickwithnoK

    A couple questions about my 620

    I cut the original plug into two separate plugs with a dremel, and the remaining plastic worked well as a plug to the KA alternator. I think think the alternator is hooked up properly. I only started it once since the change and don't remember if the charge light came on when I turned the key on, I only remember that it was off while the motor was running. Can I ask what the 12v supply to the alternator is for? I have the stock AM radio and no aftermarket electrical components aside from the new alternator. Mike suggested it could be a faulty alternator which I would totally believe, but how would a faulty alternator drain the battery with the car off
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