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CV shafts in the works


Icehouse

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icehouse - get your lsd yet? :fu:

 

NO!!! The dude said there warehouse is way backed up so it may take a longer to get it shipped than the shipping itself...... I want to get it soon though. I can't decide what gear ration to run... I don't want to go to low, I hate when you can't downshift to 3rd on the freeway. So I think I will go with 3.9's or 4.11's

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yeah...I posted on the realm the wolf creek r180 lsd, but it's 110mm ID ring gear which is the old kind. The newer ones like ours are 115mm.

 

 

Yeah thats what I was thinking, I'm glad to have the "new style"

 

 

 

You can convert the snap in K R180 to use the bolt in stubs just by swapping some internal bits, so maybe you can do the opposite for the R160? Or get one of the subi r160s that uses snap in? Kamododragon on the realm was converting the bolt in stubs to work in snap in diffs, so I'm sure you could come up with something easy enough.

 

Me and Hainz did that conversion on the R180 I put in the rusty car (stock diffs are wussy)

 

I think it would be easy to drill a whole down the center of the truck stub axle. maybe machine it a little shorter. I think it would be harder to add a snap ring to the diff. I thought all the snap ring R160's are VLSD yuck!

 

 

 

 

Shafts shorter? I was just tryin to give you a more accurate measurement of the bare shafts in case you came across anything else. Those are the normal 280zxt shaft lengths. I need to get my swing arms fabbed up with my heim joints, just haven't had the time/enthusiasm. I have a crappy work area, which basically means not enough space so I do most of my work outside, and this crappy cold & windy weather kills my motivation, not to mention blows away shielding gas...

 

Think I'm gonna need a spacer? :D

DSCF2317.JPG

 

 

yeah we work in the cold to!!! BBBRRRRR Today I was getting really wet. I have a lot on my list to! I really want to figure out the CV shafts though..... Maybe at lunch tomorrow I can stop by the truck yard and see what kind of deal I can get on a few shafts.

 

 

That strut has about the same clearance as Jareds car (my bro's old one) Depending on the ride hight you may be alright. But with the tall springs your most likey fucked :D Nice scrub radius though :D

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I starting putting my LSD in a S12 4.11 R180, its weird it has the threaded ends to accept the old style axles.... I don't really understand why, I thought the trucks had a snap ring style CV... I didn't want to take it apart to find out if the C clips are under the pressed in threaded piece... I figure I can machine the Truck stub so it can be bolted in. Since its a s12 R180 it has to have the 12mm bolts from what I have read, the ring gear fit perfect onto the clutch pack. HHHMMM I'm somewhat confused. I may call the place I got it from just to find out. The instructions it came with are for a solid axle install hahaha

 

I also got all my parts together to start test fitting the CV shafts again.

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Dude that makes cents then, I see, it is threaded on both sides. I just have to figure out how to get the bearings onto the cluthpack, we have a press but that doesn't help get them off the old center section.... I may just buy new ones. I tried the only puller that fit, those fuckers are on there! The only worry I have is since I'm using a different center section will the shims need to be changed?

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How does it make sense? The long shaft doesn't have a bolt or a circlip in the picture.

 

I'd buy new bearings for sure since the old ones will probably get damaged pulling them anyways :P The service manual shows a funky puller they use...I'm not sure if a normal 2 or 3 prong puller will work.

 

Stupid nissan/fhi :P

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How does it make sense? The long shaft doesn't have a bolt or a circlip in the picture.

 

Well I wondered why the 12mm ring gear fit but it had the treaded side flange lock nuts. Now I know :D Who knows why both ends are threaded, maybe if I actually had a truck diff to disassemble I would know :D

 

 

 

I'd buy new bearings for sure since the old ones will probably get damaged pulling them anyways :P The service manual shows a funky puller they use...I'm not sure if a normal 2 or 3 prong puller will work.

 

Stupid nissan/fhi :P

 

The puller I was using didn't put any pressure on the bearings, they are just on there a little to good :D I think I'm going to buy new ones.

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  • 2 weeks later...

That is weird, it looks like a CV taken apart... Don't post that on the realm... it looks like the factory nissan shafts will hold 300whp, thats not enough we need the porsche shafts :D hehe It does look like custom or at least painted axles. the diff is wierd to, it looks like a S13 diff.

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That is jeff shoesmith's coupe here in australia. The rear cradle is modified to suit an S14 shortnose R200. The CV axles are custom made.

 

The rear trailing arms have been modified at the hub section (cut off and custom hub carriers to suit the S14 rear hubs).

 

I put some info about it here

 

It's featured in the latest Zoom magazine (not sure if you receive this over there;

 

ZM_295x250_banner.gif

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What is that out of? Those shafts have to be short!!!
G35 AWD. My question was...isn't that the same size block as the normal block? Dry sump? The transaxle is in the oil pan!

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Infiniti-G35-AWD-FX-M35-3-5L-Engine-VQ35DE-Motor-LKQ_W0QQitemZ190222742584QQihZ009QQcategoryZ33615QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

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  • 2 months later...
I heimed one arm up, but that's all I've gotten so far, and I'm not sure I'm happy with how I did it...

 

Post a pic of it, then I can be a judge of that :D Trust me I've been there, I'm redesigning my rack and pinion, its not that its bad or unsafe (I've driven on it enough to know it won't break :D ) I just have a few new ideas :D

 

I really want to get the CV shafts figured out! I just need to make it to Pull A Part and get some more test pieces.

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Well, I should have angled the tube adapters/heims, or just mounted them in a less stock location because right now I can't really slam the rear end without the arm hitting the underside. Right now I'm thinking I need to just make some new tube arms and only use the bearing carrier & caliper bracket. That way the bearing carrier could be mounted wherever you want on the arm and get the arm back to a more level position with the car slammed.

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