going electronic distributor

[datsun6201972]

Hi.

 

i have 1975 datsun 620 L20b and want to remove my points. looking for the best electronic system.

ty

[datzenmike]

Type E I distributor into our search engine and start reading... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/11561-lose-the-pointsgo-electronic-ignition/

 

Simplest is the '79-'80 Matchbox distributor from any L20B engine. Be sou should get the matching coil for proper higher output and unbolt the base (two 10mm bolts) pedestal from the timing cover and take it with you.  With luck a few bucks at a local yard or about $80-$100. (get the coil with it)

[racerx]

Or pertronix

[distributorguy]

The Matchbox distributor (the one Mike mentions) will outperform the Pertronix for a few reasons.  

1:  Pertronix has let quality control slide away into oblivion. 

2:  The Matchbox distributor's advance curve is much better than what you got in the points distributor, so performance will improve (despite going electronic.) 

3:  The electronic pickup will not be as affected by plug wire noise as the magnetic system in a Pertronix.  

 

Overall best performance will come from a points distributor, properly set up with the correct advance curve, as all electronic ignitions are subject to misfire from plug wire noise to some level.  

[datzenmike]

Yet they were used on the L28 to 7K which would be 10,500 on a 4 cylinder. Good enough and then some for a stock or modified engine and best of all, never having to replace, set or check points again. Hotter spark too.

[Jersey]

Yet they were used on the L28 to 7K which would be 10,500 on a 4 cylinder. Good enough and then some for a stock or modified engine and best of all, never having to replace, set or check points again. Hotter spark too.

I'm very happy I made the switch for the Very Reasons you've cited.

[datsun6201972]

Thank you for the info. I want to keep my points but for some reason my points are flaming or should i say burning.

any suggestion please.

 

[G-Duax]

This could be from a mis-matched condensor.

[datzenmike]

Thank you for the info. I want to keep my points but for some reason my points are flaming or should i say burning.

any suggestion please.

 

If you have the wrong coil it will allow too much current to flow through it. It will over heat but worse it will burn out the points in a few hundred miles even as little as 50. Points are limited in how much current they can handle.... generally about 4-6 amps. To limit current the coil must have a resistance of about 3 ohms OR the coil and the ballast resister must total a resistance of about 3 ohms. If by mistake you have a low resistance coil from an electronic distributor (generally about 0.8 to 1.0 ohms) it will draw 12 to 15 amps.

 

So if you removed your ballast resister and/or threw on one of those pretty after market coils this could be the problem.

[red13]

If you go electronic you can do gm hei, or prw2 with fm coil

[datzenmike]

If matchbox dizzy already, this is hardly worth the bother as it works just fine as it is. But if the module has failed (extremely rare unless after market low impedance coil used) or, you have a '77 or earlier California remote igniter dizzy this is highly recommended for ease of wiring.

[G-Duax]

Burning the points with a hot coil is due to the wrong capacitor for that coil.

The capacitor is an electrical dampener, it has to stop the momentum of the electron flow going to ground when the points open.

A hotter coil requires a capacitor that can handle the increased electron flow through a low resistance primary.

Mallory and others used to sell different capacitors to deal with this.

 

This can also be caused by using an out of spec capacitor, like from a cheap points & condensor set.

The capacitor needs to be to the same spec as the oem requirements.

Just because it's the right size, and fits, doesn't mean it has the same farad rating as what Nissan intended to be used with their coil.

 

In the the days of yester-year, there was way more info on this than you will ever find today on the almighty 'net with an I-phone.

Mostly due to the modern electronc ignitions.

 

If I was to run a points set up, and needed a hotter spark to deal with increased rpm, higher compression, or forced induction, I certainly would be playing with different capacitors.

 

But........

I sold out to the dark side (no, not John Lucas electronics), and run an match box now.

[distributorguy]

Pretty much all condensers sold now run at .22 mFd, with the exception of some Mopar stuff closer to .3.  My guess is that you either have the wrong coil as Mike suggested, or your condenser has partially failed (soon to completely fail).  The 1+ Ohm coil goes with a matchbox, 3+ Ohm with points.  

[Jo Waldner]

Hi Guys, this is my first post here! iam sitting in an 1975 Lil Hustler and a can say its the only one in germany or one of 2 but the other doesnt work :)....so coming to the point: i do have some ignition problems with my J15 engine. my distributor shaft  has too much radial tolerance in the inner housing. so that the ignition timing cant work correctly. Its an Hitachi D413-92

My question is: do you thing an electronic ignition can handle this problem or is the only way to buy new distributor ?

 

Thanks a lot for your brainworking in advance!

[racerx]

if shaft is messed up then a new dist. is in need.

[datzenmike]

Most distributors don't have a replaceable bushing in them. The shaft just rides in the aluminum distributor case. When worn out it has to be replaced.

 

You will need an electronic distributor for a J series engine if there are any. In  America the J13 was used until '69, in Mexico and outside of North America the J series was used well into the 80s and may have come with an electronic ignition set up. I don't know.

 

Otherwise just find any J series points distributor and replace it.

 

I suppose the distributor case could be drilled out over size and a suitable brass bushing turned on a lathe and tapped in. Any friends with a lathe?

[Jo Waldner]

my electronic ignition set for four cylinder engines manufactured by HOT SPARK just arrived today. I will give you some pics later!!

PS:

Driving a Datsun in Germany is like going for a walk with a tiger 

 

:thumbup:

[racerx]

No not Hot Spark!  Hoping it works for you.

[G-Duax]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/322308110486?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

 

Good luck with that.

 

30-40 years ago, people sold electronic ignition conversions that still used the points.

They used transistors to carry the amp load, and the points were there just to turn the transistor on & off.

Since the points were only seeing miliamps, they no longer burned.

[Jo Waldner]

Hi G,

 

ya thats exactly the swap iam going to realize in mine j15.

my points are in NEW condition but the problem is my shaft with has too much radial play in housing. approx. 1millimeter.

but the engine is still running!not as strong as few month before but this can have other probs i know :w00t:

All in all i will start to make the electronic swap today.

Greets 

[distributorguy]

Most distributors don't have a replaceable bushing in them. The shaft just rides in the aluminum distributor case. When worn out it has to be replaced.

 

Actually, almost every distributor made has replaceable bushings.  Its very rare to see one that doesn't, dating back to the days of cast steel and cast iron distributors.  

 

Don't use electronics to mask wear.  It doesn't work.  You end up with a very poor ignition signal, and variable timing (not in a good way.)  Eventually the rotor hits the cap terminals and misfires, then breaks.  Bad idea.   I'd be willing to bet you can buy a 1/2" flange bushing at your local hardware store to replace the one in your distributor.  

[datzenmike]

My parts exploded view doesn't show anything for bushings so assume the spindle rides in the case. It shows the spindle and some thrust washers below the mechanical weights but no bushings. I have a points dizzy and will have to pull apart some day. Have always heard of shaft wobble here over the years but never anyone changing the 'bearing'.  I mean there isn't much load on a distributor shaft and the electronic ones even less.

 

One mm is hardly worth worrying about.

[distributorguy]

1mm at the bushing is 1.5-2 at the rotor.  It IS worth worrying about.  Tolerance is .001" not 1mm.  How much do you want to see your point gap vary from a loose bushing?   Zero is the correct answer.    The bushings are not shown in the diagrams because the distributor was to be replaced rather than repaired.  I can assure you, there are bronze flange bushings in that distributor.   Easily rectified.  

[Jo Waldner]

guys, i needed to change my front wheel bearings first today! Also he got some new brake shoes installed. i love the little gear where you can fix the correct distance beetween drum and shoe..awesome user-friendly

 

I hope i will have time for MY DISTRIBUTOR tomorrow. after read the words from distributor guy i believe i give it to the bosch service partner in town to overhaul the bushings and especially the vaccum control assembly,Braker plate assembly including Thrust washer and governor weight and springs!!!!

 

But i need to make my experiences in installing the electronic ignition..if it doesnt work, shit on it! Install the contact set again and doing what you guys recommended me.

[racerx]

Nothing wrong with points system, only reason why i went w petronix 14 years ago was because i had a bitchen time trying to adjust dual points.