jboulukos Posted July 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 Fusible link made. Picked up the male and female connectors and 10 feet of wire at Napa. I just have to use a heat gun on the yellow female connectors to seal to the wire and will crimp on the male connectors to the existing wiring. 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted July 9, 2016 Report Share Posted July 9, 2016 According to the diagram you check continuity between B and the rest of the connections at each stage of the switch. So black would go to B conveniently enough and red to check the other end of the circuit. . Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted July 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 According to the diagram you check continuity between B and the rest of the connections at each stage of the switch. So black would go to B conveniently enough and red to check the other end of the circuit. . So black on B, and red goes where exactly? Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted July 10, 2016 Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 To the rest of the contacts as shown in the diagram. The first column shows the key in the lock position with no continuity between any of the other contacts. The second column shows the key in the key in the off position, there should still be no continuity. The third columns shows continuity between B and A with the key in the ACC position. Turn the key to on and check IG and A. Turn the key to start and check the last column. They don't explain all this as they assume a service technician is doing the work and has had training testing circuits, so confusion is understandable :) If you don't get continuity as shown in the diagram or there is continuity at a circuit not shown on the diagram the switch is bad. Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted July 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 To the rest of the contacts as shown in the diagram. The first column shows the key in the lock position with no continuity between any of the other contacts. The second column shows the key in the key in the off position, there should still be no continuity. The third columns shows continuity between B and A with the key in the ACC position. Turn the key to on and check IG and A. Turn the key to start and check the last column. They don't explain all this as they assume a service technician is doing the work and has had training testing circuits, so confusion is understandable :) If you don't get continuity as shown in the diagram or there is continuity at a circuit not shown on the diagram the switch is bad. This makes more sense. A few more questions... 1. Should the black terminal always be on the B? 2. Am I looking for 0 for good continuity? 3. So for the On and the Start there are multiple places to check. Black on B and then check each other letter with the red? 3. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted July 10, 2016 Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 1. Should the black terminal always be on the B? Yes. For simplicity sake, just leave black on B. 2. Am I looking for 0 for good continuity? Good continuity should be close to zero, but it won't hit zero itself. if you touch the probe tips together, your meter should read total zero. Digital meters will change to show a "1" all the way to the left, or something similar in that scenario. That means absolutely no resistance, which means no continuity. You are measuring ohms of resistance, so even in 8 inches of copper wire there is some. 3. So for the On and the Start there are multiple places to check. Black on B and then check each other letter with the red? This is correct. The switch has power coming in on B. When you turn the switch, you are connecting power to EACH of the dots on the diagram. You should only have continuity where there is a dot on the diagram. I recently went over a bunch of this type testing procedure in my 510 thread. It's in project datto, called "half pint". there is also a link in my signature. See the last page, where I'm working on a wiper switch, if you're interested. Different switch, same exact game. 2 Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted July 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 I was able to get the newly made fusible link on with using the original male ends. I tried to take the original ignition switch off however there are not standard slot screwdriver bolts as there are on my extra one, the bolts are blank. So I took off the wiring from the old ignition and replaced with new. The car made normal buzzing noise (fasten seat belt buzz), wipers worked normal, radio worked normal (no buzzing noise through radio speaker), hooked up each of 2 hazard light switches and both worked normally. The only think left here is that the car won't start, no noise at all from under the hood with turning of the key. I'm going to check the fuse box with the multimeter now. Any thoughts on what to look for next? Maybe my starter is completely kaput? Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted July 10, 2016 Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 Small wire on starter is the one that gets power from the ignition switch when you turn the key to "start". Check for voltage at that small wire while someone turns the key for you. If voltage, starter problem. No voltage, electricity problem. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 10, 2016 Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 I was able to get the newly made fusible link on with using the original male ends. I tried to take the original ignition switch off however there are not standard slot screwdriver bolts as there are on my extra one, the bolts are blank. So I took off the wiring from the old ignition and replaced with new. The car made normal buzzing noise (fasten seat belt buzz), wipers worked normal, radio worked normal (no buzzing noise through radio speaker), hooked up each of 2 hazard light switches and both worked normally. The only think left here is that the car won't start, no noise at all from under the hood with turning of the key. I'm going to check the fuse box with the multimeter now. Any thoughts on what to look for next? Maybe my starter is completely kaput? You don't have to cut the ignition switch off at all. The securig screws tighten and then the heads snap off leaving nothing to unscrew them with. The trick is to cut a slot for a screw driver. . This makes them totally re usable. Now your ignition can be gotten at at least. Perhaps something is loose in there. Try shaking it out or stick the red straw in there and flush with WD-40 or is the key stuck? Some of my ignitions the key will pull out in ant position. 1 Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted July 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 Small wire on starter is the one that gets power from the ignition switch when you turn the key to "start". Check for voltage at that small wire while someone turns the key for you. If voltage, starter problem. No voltage, electricity problem. 1. where exactly to put the black and red probes? 2. what should I expect voltage to read? 12.7 like the battery? Thanks Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted July 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 Ok excellent. I could probably cut a slot with a dremel tool. I should get the ignition off as there are 2 other wires that lead from it and those don't seem to be removable in order to sway with extra ignition. However, I did unplug the old ignition switch at both plugs and tried the new one while holding it in my hand. Same outcome, no start or sound at all. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted July 10, 2016 Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 1. where exactly to put the black and red probes? Remove the small wire from the starter. Put the red probe in the wire connector. Put the black probe against a clean part of the engine or a clean bolt. Something with a good ground. 2. what should I expect voltage to read? 12.7 like the battery? It might read voltage in the 11s, but that is fine. If its below 10 volts, there could be too much resistance in the circuit. If it reads 0, then there is no power being sent to that wire. 1 Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted July 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 1. where exactly to put the black and red probes? Remove the small wire from the starter. Put the red probe in the wire connector. Put the black probe against a clean part of the engine or a clean bolt. Something with a good ground. 2. what should I expect voltage to read? 12.7 like the battery? It might read voltage in the 11s, but that is fine. If its below 10 volts, there could be too much resistance in the circuit. If it reads 0, then there is no power being sent to that wire. Awesome. Thank you kindly! So if there is a starter problem, is it best to take to a rebuild shop? Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted July 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 other info learned: - The plastic ends of the female connectors I have on the fusible link I've made are Not meant to be heated with a heat gun. I thought they might shrink to be a tight seal around the wire however they don't respond to heat in that fashion. If anyone needs a 20 gauge/.5mm squared fusible link, I can send you one. Just send me a message. 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted July 11, 2016 Report Share Posted July 11, 2016 For future reference, you can remove the yellow isolator thingy and use shrink wrap to seal the connector to the wire. You could even solder the joint before the shrink sleeve is shrunk. It will work just fine the way you have it though. If there is a problem with the starter you can buy a new one or have the one in the car rebuilt. Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted July 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2016 Today I tried to test voltage to the starter while key was being turned. The display for voltage was changing so rapidly that I cannot describe it in words. It's unclear. Many times the multimeter doesn't give a straightforward measurement. Battery was 12.68, starter was all over the place. So my next line of defense was to remove the starter and take it to a parts house for testing/rebuilding. I thought that was a great idea except I could not get it off. Very difficult to reach bolt placement of both nuts. Unable to break the nuts loose from top or bottom. Not sure what else I can do. Any thoughts on how to gain access to the bolts and have enough force/lever arm to actually remove the starter? I used sockets, sockets with extenders, adjustable wrenches. My only thought is to go to autozone to rent a long lever torque wrench however I'm certain the head of the wrench won't allow the socket to get onto the starter nut. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted July 11, 2016 Report Share Posted July 11, 2016 I'm no help with the A-series starter sorry. Someone here will know though. Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted July 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2016 Just got a 14mm wrench and PB blaster. If that doesn't work, will an electrical impact wrench or a breaker bar fit? Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted July 12, 2016 Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 It's gotta go up in the air. If you don't have access to a lift, tall jack stands will work. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 12, 2016 Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 Pointless to test voltage when starter turning. To ensure the best possible starting... Clean both battery terminals and tighten the cables properly. Make sure the ground strap on the engine is secure and tight Make sure the positive cable on the starter is clean and tight If not sure about your battery, borrow one or jumper from another vehicle. If it turns over stronger then the battery may not have as much reserve as it used to. This is easier than taking the starter out and having it tested. 2 Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted July 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 Pointless to test voltage when starter turning. To ensure the best possible starting... Clean both battery terminals and tighten the cables properly. Make sure the ground strap on the engine is secure and tight Make sure the positive cable on the starter is clean and tight If not sure about your battery, borrow one or jumper from another vehicle. If it turns over stronger then the battery may not have as much reserve as it used to. This is easier than taking the starter out and having it tested. Hey Mike -battery terminals all clean using battery terminal wire brush, cables tight -not certain where the ground strap is located? elaborate on this and I'll make sure it's secure -got the starter off today With PB blaster plus these tools, I was able to remove the starter without raising the car using the 14mm wrench and hammer for lower bolt and 14mm wrench, hammer and 14mm socket for upper bolt. Not a pro, but frayed wiring doesn't look quite right Again, not a pro. Are these teeth worn? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Maybe get that wiring fixed but don't get a re manufactured one. The one you have is way better quality. 2 Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted July 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Maybe get that wiring fixed but don't get a re manufactured one. The one you have is way better quality. Yeah i figured the Hitachi was best. I took it to the guy who did my alternator. He's going to rebuild it. 1 Quote Link to comment
jboulukos Posted July 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Pointless to test voltage when starter turning. To ensure the best possible starting... Clean both battery terminals and tighten the cables properly. Make sure the ground strap on the engine is secure and tight Make sure the positive cable on the starter is clean and tight If not sure about your battery, borrow one or jumper from another vehicle. If it turns over stronger then the battery may not have as much reserve as it used to. This is easier than taking the starter out and having it tested. Where is the ground strap on the engine located specifically? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Just follow the negative cable. On the A series engine, I do not know, probably on the head. 1 Quote Link to comment
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