Smoke through steering column

[jboulukos]

Put the rebuilt starter in today and the car didn't start.  Same outcome, silence when turning the ignition to start the car.  All electronics work (radio, wipers, lights, defroster, seat belt warning light, hazards, headlights).  I've tried both ignitions I have.  All terminal are cleaned with terminal brush.  Battery is still holding 12.64 volts.  No wires in the steering column look burnt.  Fuses are new and in place.  Alternator is newly rebuilt.  Fusible link replaced.  The only thing unaccounted for is the light smoke from the steering column of which I cannot see any wiring that looks burnt or smells burnt.

 

Any other suggestions on what I can do?

Are there people who specialize in auto electronics solely?  

Would a bad coil cause this issue?

 

1 year old battery with cleaned terminals, tightened, new fusible link

 

Fuses, all new

 

hooked up other ignition, both give same outcome, silence with turning to start

[jboulukos]

I just realized that I want to try one more thing.  Looking at the inside of the ignition picture shows a metal connection on the inside ring.  I will Dremel the original ignition screws to make a slot, take off the old ignition, then put the extra one completely on and in place.  Maybe that contact point will make all the difference. Although maybe its just the wheel locking mechanism that allows locking of the wheel once in park and wheel is turned slightly to lock. 

[]2eDeYe]

Have you checked the power coming out of the ignition switch when in the start position? 

[jboulukos]

Have you checked the power coming out of the ignition switch when in the start position? 

No I have not.  Elaborate and I can check that.  Where to put the red and black leads?  2 ignition connection plugs to car wiring... step by step process needed. 

[]2eDeYe]

Black goes to a ground. For the sake of this test touch the black lead to the bolt holding the steering column to the dash.

 

Then we need to back to that diagram, for a better idea of what your looking for. 

 

The red lead gets poked in the back side of the ignition connector so that it touches the metal connector inside the white plastic housing. One of the wires should read 12v all the time, this is B in the diagram. As you turn the switch you get power to each of the other connectors, you can test these the same way that you just tested B. You want to have 12V to one of them when the key is turned to start, this is S in the diagram. If you don't have power at B then the problem is likely not the switch, if there is 12v at B and S does not read 12v with the key turned then the switch is bad.  Likely not the switch as you have tried 2 of them, but you won't know til you test them. 

Also a test light is a lot easier to use for this kind of trouble shooting. You just hook to ground and check connectors and a light comes on if you have 12v. :)

 

 

[datzenmike]

Check the Black/Yellow stripe start wire on the starter for power in the START position of the ignition.

 

YES there is power but no cranking of the engine.... starter or power or ground wire at fault.

NO power. Check the same wire at the ignition switch...

 

YES there is power... wire is broken on way to the starter.

NO power... ignition switch is at fault.

 

 

 

It should still fire as the ON position is hot in the ON and START position. True it will be going through the ballast but should stil fire.

[jboulukos]

Black goes to a ground. For the sake of this test touch the black lead to the bolt holding the steering column to the dash.

 

Then we need to back to that diagram, for a better idea of what your looking for. 

 

The red lead gets poked in the back side of the ignition connector so that it touches the metal connector inside the white plastic housing. One of the wires should read 12v all the time, this is B in the diagram. As you turn the switch you get power to each of the other connectors, you can test these the same way that you just tested B. You want to have 12V to one of them when the key is turned to start, this is S in the diagram. If you don't have power at B then the problem is likely not the switch, if there is 12v at B and S does not read 12v with the key turned then the switch is bad.  Likely not the switch as you have tried 2 of them, but you won't know til you test them. 

 

Also a test light is a lot easier to use for this kind of trouble shooting. You just hook to ground and check connectors and a light comes on if you have 12v. :)

 

 

 

 

 

Ok, I did the testing as stated.  Voltage reading on B was 12.38, S during turning of key 12.38.  Everything looks fine as far as the ignition switch power goes.

[jboulukos]

I went through the motions of getting out the old ignition so I used a Dremel tool to carve out a slot groove for screwdriver access.

 

 

 

I followed the negative cable back toward the engine and found it goes into the engine oil filter area.  Not sure how to track down the ground strap.

 

[jboulukos]

Check the Black/Yellow stripe start wire on the starter for power in the START position of the ignition.

 

YES there is power but no cranking of the engine.... starter or power or ground wire at fault.

NO power. Check the same wire at the ignition switch...

 

YES there is power... wire is broken on way to the starter.

NO power... ignition switch is at fault.

 

 

 

It should still fire as the ON position is hot in the ON and START position. True it will be going through the ballast but should stil fire.

I checked the black/yellow starter wire while on the ON position.  It was 1.2 V on some ground screws and on some screws on the firewall, the multimeter displayed random changing numbers.  I'm not certain what this all means.  The battery was holding 12.57 V.

 

I had noticed one of the ignition switch's inner ring moveable lock does not spring out like the original.  In an effort to troubleshoot, I have tried both ignitions while attached to the steering column as well as alternated the ignition wiring with both ignitions.  Still nothing occurs.  

 

Could my issue be the wiring from the starter to the ignition?  Can you describe exactly which ground to use for the black terminal while checking the starter wire (maybe the test wasn't performed correctly).

 

Meanwhile, my fusible link wire became loose at the wire-to-connector connection.  I used an extra one that I have made.  But I will solder the wire to the connector soon.

 

Any more thoughts?

[jboulukos]

I also painted the tail light surrounds today.

 

 

 

 

[]2eDeYe]

If you have power through the ignition switch and each stage of the key gets power to the corresponding circuit then the switch can be eliminated as the issue. 

If you have someone to help, the next test will will be the ignition wire at the starter. Have someone turn the key to start and test the smaller gauge wire that goes to the starter solenoid on the starter. You should see 12v to that wire with the key in the start position. 

 

You can use any bare part of the chassis as a ground, basically the entire car is part of the ground circuit. An unpainted bolt head usually is pretty easy as a ground. You can use the engine block or a bolt to the engine block when under the hood. The main ground wire attaches to the block. There should be a ground connection between the engine and the chassis as well. 

[jboulukos]

If you have power through the ignition switch and each stage of the key gets power to the corresponding circuit then the switch can be eliminated as the issue. 

 

If you have someone to help, the next test will will be the ignition wire at the starter. Have someone turn the key to start and test the smaller gauge wire that goes to the starter solenoid on the starter. You should see 12v to that wire with the key in the start position. 

 

You can use any bare part of the chassis as a ground, basically the entire car is part of the ground circuit. An unpainted bolt head usually is pretty easy as a ground. You can use the engine block or a bolt to the engine block when under the hood. The main ground wire attaches to the block. There should be a ground connection between the engine and the chassis as well. 

 

Thanks for the help on all this.

 

Here are the Voltage Measurements for each stage of ignition.

lock: B 12.65

off: B 12.65

acc: B 12.65, A 12.65

on: B 12.43, IG 12.36, A 12.36

start: B 12.35, IG 12.18, S 12.32, R 12.32

 

I then went to the small gauge starter solenoid wire.  I used a clean part of the cylinder head as the ground and with ignition turned and held at START, the multimeter jumped around to a bunch of random numbers.  On my drive home I was thinking that maybe I should have tried the engine block as the ground.  Would that have mattered?    

[datzenmike]

No.

 

Your start wire is compromised by the look of it. Follow the harness back as fat as possible looking for chaffing, a pinch or damage. Fix or run a new one to the ignition.

[jboulukos]

No.

 

Your start wire is compromised by the look of it. Follow the harness back as fat as possible looking for chaffing, a pinch or damage. Fix or run a new one to the ignition.

Excellent.  I will examine the start wire.  This makes sense since the smoking of the original fusible link occurred when trying to start the vehicle multiple times.

 

Does the start wire go from starter solenoid to positive battery terminal?  Leading away from the solenoid, that wire joins the harness/collection of wires.  

If the start wire is shorted, can you describe the repair for this?

 

Also, I have noticed that the start wire connects to the solenoid pretty loosely.  Can I tighten it by bending with plyers?

 

Thanks for all the help.

[]2eDeYe]

Excellent.  I will examine the start wire.  This makes sense since the smoking of the original fusible link occurred when trying to start the vehicle multiple times.

 

Does the start wire go from starter solenoid to positive battery terminal?  

The large gauge wire? Yes, it should. The wire to the solenoid? No, see the next answer. 

Leading away from the solenoid, that wire joins the harness/collection of wires. 

This is going back to the ignition switch.

 

If the start wire is shorted, can you describe the repair for this?

You can repair it or bypass it depending on the type of short. You will need to locate the short and then determine how to proceed. 

 

Also, I have noticed that the start wire connects to the solenoid pretty loosely.  Can I tighten it by bending with plyers?

Yes, they can get oily as well. Some simple green to flush the connector is a good idea if this is the case. 

 

Thanks for all the help.

 

 No problem :)

[jboulukos]

 No problem :)

 

I was reviewing the service manual and found another page on the ignition.  So I have tested the ignition switch however there are two different connectors (one large with 5 wires, and one small with 2 wires).  I figured it would be appropriate to check the smaller connection as well.  I've included the page from the service manual.  It shows how to test the continuity however don't know exactly how.  Maybe you can explain this one in lay terms.  Also, what do 1 and 2 do?  

 

[datzenmike]

Probably the key in the ignition buzzer.

[jboulukos]

Ok today I did the following:

 

- installed another fusible link that I have soldered

- slightly tightened/squeezed the small gauge wire female metal connector for tight connection starter solenoid male end

- examined the negative and positive wiring and wiring from the starter to as far as I can see as the wiring disappears under the firewall

- examined the interior wiring from the ignition to as far as I could see, under the dash, driver and passenger side

 

I did not find any pinching, fraying or anything that my layman's eye could identify as a visually observable compromise in the wires.  

I looked for the ground strap on the block but still cannot find one.

I believe I have found another ground just under the battery on the metal shelf that the battery sits on.

 

Not certain what else I can do to find the actual short.  Maybe its buried under the dash somewhere?  The original smoking came directly out of the hazard switch opening though.  

 

Another piece of info to add is the fact that 3 months prior to this issue, I noticed the windshield washer pump just below the washer fluid reservoir not working.  I rebuilt the pump according to the "How to" section post and still not working.  It looked as though the tiny rubber hose connection from pump to reservoir was leaking washer fluid slowly and maybe that compromised the wiring for the washer pump.  Is there a way to test this with the multimeter?  Just another piece of information to add.  The car had started fine for months after noticing the washer fluid pump not working.  

[]2eDeYe]

 

 

I then went to the small gauge starter solenoid wire.  I used a clean part of the cylinder head as the ground and with ignition turned and held at START, the multimeter jumped around to a bunch of random numbers.  

 

 

Missed this. Mike is right there is a problem on the start circuit. You may not be able to see a short. 

 

New test. 

 

Remove the start wire.

Take a wire long enough to reach from the battery to the start terminal on the starter. Install a spade so you can plug it onto the start terminal. With the car in neutral or park, touch the other end of the wire to the positive terminal of the battery. 

 

Does the starter turn over? 

[jboulukos]

Missed this. Mike is right there is a problem on the start circuit. You may not be able to see a short. 

 

New test. 

 

Remove the start wire.

Take a wire long enough to reach from the battery to the start terminal on the starter. Install a spade so you can plug it onto the start terminal. With the car in neutral or park, touch the other end of the wire to the positive terminal of the battery. 

 

Does the starter turn over? 

Questions

1. When you say "start wire," are you taking about the small gauge wire?  

2. can I use a few feet of the 20 gauge fusible link as the wire for this test?

[]2eDeYe]

Yes the small gauge wire. And yes you can use 20 gauge for the test. It wouldn't be a good replacement size though if the stock wire is a problem. 

[jboulukos]

Missed this. Mike is right there is a problem on the start circuit. You may not be able to see a short. 

 

New test. 

 

Remove the start wire.

 

Take a wire long enough to reach from the battery to the start terminal on the starter. Install a spade so you can plug it onto the start terminal. With the car in neutral or park, touch the other end of the wire to the positive terminal of the battery. 

 

Does the starter turn over?

 

Yes, the car immediately started, the belt was turning. Thanks!

Now what?

[]2eDeYe]

Decision time...

 

Like Mike stated above;

 

You can trace the start wire to find the short or you can run a new wire to start wire position on the ignition switch connector. 

 

 

 

Tracing is a bit more difficult but the correct way to go, you basically have to inspect the entire wire to find where it is shorting and fix it or replace it completely. This is good because you will see if it shorted on another circuit (maybe the wipers?) and can repair any other damage in the harness. 

 

Bypassing is pretty easy and is basically what that last test did. 

 

Third option would be a new harness.

 

 

Start off inspecting the harness between the switch and the starter, look for any meltyness, smell for burnt electrics. 

[jboulukos]

Decision time...

 

Like Mike stated above;

 

You can trace the start wire to find the short or you can run a new wire to start wire position on the ignition switch connector. 

 

 

 

Tracing is a bit more difficult but the correct way to go, you basically have to inspect the entire wire to find where it is shorting and fix it or replace it completely. This is good because you will see if it shorted on another circuit (maybe the wipers?) and can repair any other damage in the harness. 

 

Bypassing is pretty easy and is basically what that last test did. 

 

Third option would be a new harness.

 

 

Start off inspecting the harness between the switch and the starter, look for any meltyness, smell for burnt electrics. 

 

A few questions:

 

Tracing the wire to find the short:  Do i just just cut the harness tape and expose the wire as it leads to ignition?  Does this one small gauge wire travel all the way to ignition without any other connection points along the way? 

 

Bypassing option:  Which gauge and type of wire can I use?  Can I solder on the existing female connector to the new wire?  How does the wire connect into the plastic ignition wire connector?  Or can I just solder in the wire at the ignition, connecting the new wire to the old wire at the ignition?  Can I do this as a test with the wire going out through the drivers window and into the open hood to the starter (in order to make certain it works before trying to feed the wire through past the dash/firewall or where ever it disappear to) ?

 

New Harness:  Are new harnesses available for sale?

 

 

I am thinking of trying the bypass method to start.    

[]2eDeYe]

A few questions:

 

Tracing the wire to find the short:  Do i just just cut the harness tape and expose the wire as it leads to ignition?  

Yes, this is really the best option as it allows you to make sure there are no other wires shorted to the start wire. 

 

Does this one small gauge wire travel all the way to ignition without any other connection points along the way?

You will have to double check the wiring diagram, but I believe it has no other connections 

 

Bypassing option:  Which gauge and type of wire can I use?  

Same as the current wire that you are replacing. 

 

Can I solder on the existing female connector to the new wire?  

Yes, but a new connector is a better idea. 

 

How does the wire connect into the plastic ignition wire connector?  

There is a tab holding it into the connector. 

 

Or can I just solder in the wire at the ignition, connecting the new wire to the old wire at the ignition?  

You can do this as well.

 

Can I do this as a test with the wire going out through the drivers window and into the open hood to the starter (in order to make certain it works before trying to feed the wire through past the dash/firewall or where ever it disappear to) ?

Yes. 

 

New Harness:  Are new harnesses available for sale?

You should be able to find a used harness with no shorts. A wanted ad in the classifieds and checking ebay is the best bet for this. 

 

I am thinking of trying the bypass method to start.    

This will verify that the switch is good.

 

 

Good luck, let us know what you find. :)