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Smoke through steering column


jboulukos

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I would not recommend soldering in the fusible link. It is meant to be replaceable and is there to save the rest of the harness from fire due to a short.

 

You can get insulated connectors to use in place of the factory connectors.  The spades are the standard large size. 

Ok thank you.  I have a few questions.

Can you explain the "insulated connectors."  I have looked for a new fusible link wire and have found wires with a metal ring at the end of it.

Also, explain "spade."

 

All this is new to me.  Seems like the ideal situation would be to find someone parting out the same model car and get the exact fusible link with the plastic connectors.

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I would not recommend soldering in the fusible link. It is meant to be replaceable and is there to save the rest of the harness from fire due to a short.

 

You can get insulated connectors to use in place of the factory connectors.  The spades are the standard large size. 

image_8.jpeg

Would this work?  If so, how would I connect it?

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s-l500.jpg

 

 

This is a cheaper version of the insulated spade connectors. These will work just fine for your application. The spade is the one on the right and the female connector is on the left. 

 

There are typically 3 different versions for wire sizes as well as 3 different spade sizes for each of the wire sizes. 

 

maplin-fully-insulated-spade-terminal-fe

 

 

The yellow ones are the correct size for the fusible link and are for 10-12 gauge wire. The blue ones shown are for 14-16 gauge wire and the reds are for the smaller 18-20 gauge wire.

 

Should be able to get these at any parts store. If you can't find the insulated versions, the non insulated ones will do, just be sure to use some heat shrink tubing to insulate them from shorting out. 

 

You will need to make sure the connector feature (spade or female) is the correct size for the connector on the car.

 

 

polyolefin-heat-shrink-tubing-(edited).j

 

 

It would also be a good idea to pick up a good set of electrical pliers and build yourself an automotive electronics repair kit if you plan to own a datsun for any length of time. :)

 

This type of pliers are awesome

 

s-l225.jpg

 

 

 

 

not this type as they suck...

 

wt105.jpg

 

 

I just scanned this video but it looks like a decent introduction to wire connecting basics.

 

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s-l500.jpg

 

 

This is a cheaper version of the insulated spade connectors. These will work just fine for your application. The spade is the one on the right and the female connector is on the left. 

 

There are typically 3 different versions for wire sizes as well as 3 different spade sizes for each of the wire sizes. 

 

maplin-fully-insulated-spade-terminal-fe

 

 

The yellow ones are the correct size for the fusible link and are for 10-12 gauge wire. The blue ones shown are for 14-16 gauge wire and the reds are for the smaller 18-20 gauge wire.

 

Should be able to get these at any parts store. If you can't find the insulated versions, the non insulated ones will do, just be sure to use some heat shrink tubing to insulate them from shorting out. 

 

You will need to make sure the connector feature (spade or female) is the correct size for the connector on the car.

 

 

polyolefin-heat-shrink-tubing-(edited).j

 

 

It would also be a good idea to pick up a good set of electrical pliers and build yourself an automotive electronics repair kit if you plan to own a datsun for any length of time. :)

 

This type of pliers are awesome

 

s-l225.jpg

 

 

 

 

not this type as they suck...

 

wt105.jpg

 

 

I just scanned this video but it looks like a decent introduction to wire connecting basics.

 

This is excellent. 

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So I get the green fusible link, then the proper size insulated connectors which would be 4 total (2 for each connection, 2 spades, 2 female), then get the pliers and connect the wire to the insulated connector.  Is this correct? 

 

Do the insulated connectors need to be heat shrunk at the base to seal in the wire?

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So I get the green fusible link, then the proper size insulated connectors which would be 4 total (2 for each connection, 2 spades, 2 female), then get the pliers and connect the wire to the insulated connector.  Is this correct? 

 

 

You really only need whichever is not already installed in the car. If it has spades get female or vice versa.

 

 

 

 

Do the insulated connectors need to be heat shrunk at the base to seal in the wire?

 

 

You don't need to do that, but it does help keep everything together and contaminants out. 

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Ok, got a game plan.  I took off the old plastic connectors and will reuse them once I obtain a green fusible link.  Took some trial and error but I was able to bend the metal ends more flat and then slide them out of the plastic housing.  Tomorrow I'll be checking the fuses and possible the wiring for the wipers.  Slow and sure.

 

Green wire sheath, thin fusible link wire, original plastic connectors to be reused.

 

 

image_9.jpeg

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That's definitley a bad fusible link lol.

 

Have you located the original source of smoke? You may want to pic up a couple fusible links if not. ;)

Agreed.

 

I haven't located it yet.  Gotta break out the multimeter.  

 

A few questions...

 

Is a short circuit considered a compromise in the wire?  a break?  wire touching something when it shouldn't be?  a break in the wire casing?

 

I'd like to buy about 8 inches of fusible link and make 2 but I'm not certain where I could get the metal ends. 

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Technically a 'short' is when the power is is going to ground via a broken wire or other electrical transfer. It has also become the term for a broken wire or loose connection of any type. 

If you see smoke there is 'short' as you are basically welding your power to ground until the circuit breaks. This is the purpose of the fusible link, it breaks the connection to the power source when a spike in amps happens. It is what keeps the car from burning to the ground when you have a short. :)

 

Edit: the metal ends (connectors) should be available at a good local parts store. Take the parts you have in and explain what you're looking for. 

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When something electrical stops working people say there's a short. If you really had that you'd either blow a fuse or go up in smoke. What it really is, is an open. This is where power cannot flow because something is loose or making bad contact.

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Great explanations.  It helps make sense of it all.  I will soon examine the wires associated with the wipers/ignition and get the fusible link stuff.  I'm hoping to not have to take off the dash front or the dash pad but will do it if need be.  I still need to check things with the multimeter.  Have been busy with 4th of July weekend stuff.  Guns N Roses at Soldier Field tonight.  Smoke on the Water

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Keep in mind that the fusible link blew because there was a heavy enough load to cause this. Later cars had a link for the headlamps, one for the fuse box and one to the ignition switch for things on the fuse box that shut off with the key. As there was also smoke around the ignition switch I would have a really close look there.

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Keep in mind that the fusible link blew because there was a heavy enough load to cause this. Later cars had a link for the headlamps, one for the fuse box and one to the ignition switch for things on the fuse box that shut off with the key. As there was also smoke around the ignition switch I would have a really close look there.

Yes.  The smoke first came from ignition switch area, seeping through the hazard light manual switch on top of the steering column plastic shell surround.  I will be checking the fuses soon.  The ignition, correct me if I'm wrong, runs off a combination of fuses.  I looked on the fuse box cover and ignition seems to be linked to and relies upon a couple/few fuses to be working.  The wipers not working and then working very slowly following a fuse change could also be a culprit.  I gotta get the fusible link situation figured out.  Going to Nissan tomorrow to check the ".5 green" fusible link they have in the system for a 1980 Datsun 810 L24E engine, part # 24161-28500.  Also going to Napa parts to see if they have the connectors for building my own link.  don't want to get the Nissan one for $13.46 just to have it blow on me during trouble shooting the issue.  Napa sells the 20 gauge/.5mm squared/40 amp fusible link wire only, at a minimum, 9 feet for $7 something.  

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Part of the fuse box gets power directly from the battery, through a fusible link. These are things that have power at all times like horn and brake lights.

 

Another part of the fuse box get's it's power from the ignition switch which in turn gets it's power from the battery through another fusible link. These are things like heater, wiper, radio and are turned on and off with the  ignition.

 

It's possible that the headlamps have their own fusible link. 

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Part of the fuse box gets power directly from the battery, through a fusible link. These are things that have power at all times like horn and brake lights.

 

Another part of the fuse box get's it's power from the ignition switch which in turn gets it's power from the battery through another fusible link. These are things like heater, wiper, radio and are turned on and off with the  ignition.

 

It's possible that the headlamps have their own fusible link. 

Great explanation.  I'm learning more.  Where can I locate the fusible link for the ignition?  Or is that the actual wiring leading from the ignition/key mechanism? 

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Great explanation.  I'm learning more.  Where can I locate the fusible link for the ignition?  Or is that the actual wiring leading from the ignition/key mechanism? 

 

I imagine it's this one....

 

image_9.jpeg

 

It feeds power to the ignition switch. From the switch power is directed to the starter in the START position and to several of the fuses in the fuse box in the ON position. Usually the ignition is powered directly from the ignition switch.

 

 

So here is what you said tyou were doing when this happened....

 

 

Then I turned off the car for a few seconds and attempted to start it again but it wouldn't start.  I noticed a faint light white smoke coming out of the hazard light switch opening on top of the steering column that lasted 5 seconds.  The wipers did not work. The sound of the seat belt warning light buzz was distorted and the same buzzing each second was amplified by the radio speaker when I turned the radio on.

 

If you were trying to start the engine the ignition switch was being used. Did you expose the ignition switch and look at the contacts and the plug that pushes onto it?? Is there evidence of heat damage? The smoke came from somewhere.

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I imagine it's this one....

 

image_9.jpeg

 

It feeds power to the ignition switch. From the switch power is directed to the starter in the START position and to several of the fuses in the fuse box in the ON position. Usually the ignition is powered directly from the ignition switch.

 

 

So here is what you said tyou were doing when this happened....

 

 

 

If you were trying to start the engine the ignition switch was being used. Did you expose the ignition switch and look at the contacts and the plug that pushes onto it?? Is there evidence of heat damage? The smoke came from somewhere.

I will certainly unplug any wire connectors and inspect with sight and smell.  I do have another ignition with a key so that is a plus.  

Let me ask you this.  Could a faulty ignition wire effect how the wipers operate?  

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Inside the ignition switch could be fried. Less power being sent to the wiper. Maybe the wiper was the problem. Was the wiper on when this happened???

Wipers weren't on.

 

Looked at it closer today.  Theres two ignition connections, both looking clean and smelling normal.  After a few minutes of investigating I started loosing light and my phone died rendering my without a flashlight.  Still need to make the fusible link.  Went to the Nissan dealership to examine the link they have.  The connectors seems slightly larger than the originals.  

I have a few pieces with me the check with the multimeter (hazard wire, extra ignition switch).   I noticed there was one connection that had no place to plug in...leading from firewall towards steering column.  Might be a tachometer connector (?), which I don't have in my instrument panel.  

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I'm currently attempting to test continuity in the new and old hazard light wiring as well as the new ignition.  Old ignition needs to be removed and tested.  The Service Manual has good pictures on how to test, I just need to figure out where to put the multimeter leads.  For example, in the ignition, I can put the red on prong "A" but where do I put the black? and does the key need to be turned to "ACC" on the ignition to test "A"  ?      

 

Zero ohms is good continuity correct? meaning absence of short circuit?  

 

image_11.jpeg

 

image_12.jpeg

 

image_10.jpeg

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