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Engine wont catch


DatMo

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How much fuel does the pump exert? i couldnt get a video because once again i was by myself, but it was shooting out a consistent amount in a consistent time, BUT not in a stream, it was in spurts.  I first tried from a clean container and then from the actual fuel hose, both had the same success.  I put some gas straight into the carb and got to start and recorded it. pulled the throttle with gas still in it and it rev'd perfectly, but then burned the fuel and boggled and died again.

 

here is the google link for the video, let me know if it work please! 

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byo-iswWhZ8QVGFJb2Z5UG5YOTg/view?usp=sharing

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I think trash from tank messed up the carburetor, pump is pumping from the sound of it, i would take that carb out, take the jets out, inspect & clean, make sure none of the holes are clogged, I'm betting trash from tank is doing all of this, you should get an electric pump and suck all the gas from tank into a clean container to confirm if in fact dirty gas is coming from the tank.

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if it rains alot water will get in the Gas filler tube where you fill up gas in the truck. It will run down the tube causeing Rust and dirt to get in the tank. Happen with my truck with previous owner.

 

As for Carb just cycle the gas linkae and you should see gas shoot in on the downward stroke. This comes from the accell pump diaphrame pushing on the side of the carb. It will be the square looking thin on the valve cover side. Think of it as a cup of Soda with a straw out the top. When you sqeeze the caup soda will come out the straw. Same principal with the carb. This enriches the mixture as the butterfly is open for more air.

 

 

If carb is flooded, it will smell and sparkplugs wet. I dont think your flooded as you wouldnt be able to start using starter fluid.

 

OK I tried not to whip this out fast so I got my spelling better

 

 

PS thats looks like my 521 also

 

 

What year 521 is this as the 72 model year has a wire for a electric choke. I dont like using the plus side of the ballst resisitor to get the 12volts but other people say its OK.

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Now thats more like it banzai510(hainz)! Lol, sorry I couldnt understand what you were trying to get at the first time.  Not going to lie, i have no clue how to do any of that, so i will have to watch some youtube or something to teach me about the carb.  As for the gas tank, I can check that out. 

 

i believe my truck is a 71'.  So it has the manual choke that I used on the old stock mikuni carb.  buttttt (and i can be wrong) that carb did still have a wire conected to the back of it, so that may be the wire youre referring to, i have no clue what it was for. I dont know if it still gets any power though because when i changed my ignition, i basically just wired up the dizzy directly with two new wires and disconnected some of the older ones.  Im a pretty new to the whole carb thing, so i may have no idea what i am talking about...

 

I can post more pics once i have the time.  I also bought a dogleg 5 spd i want to install, some black fender flares, and a chrome valve cover to match my polished manifold, bumper, and (my soon to maybe buy) bullet fender mirrors. Currently it has 1" loweing blocks, but im thinking for going to 3 or 4. Also need to hook up/install speakers, radio, and dome light. after that, it wll be a nice daily

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Simple

take air cleaner off and see if shooting gas in while cycle carb linkage. this is like sprayin starting fluid in there. The vapors will fire the motor off.

 

The wire in back of carb(I have 72 and has a 12v wire)? Fnd it and put key to ON and see if 12volts. If yes then that can be hooked up to the choke tab.

 

Wiring a Matchbox wont change the choke wire as it come from the firewall side wiring.

 

 

I think your truck is clean already not put put flairs on. Buy soembody elses flaired truck thats broke

 

 

Lowering more than 4 inch you got to put a spacer under the carrier bearing or the 5 speed will whine

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BTW, thank you guys for being patient with me and giving me some great advice so far.  I will let you guys know when i get it all fixed up.

 

banzai510(hainz) I appreciate the detailed help. I will hopefully have time to do the checks today after work.  As someone suggested earlier about looking into the carb, is that safe to do? I would assume that stuff can fly out at any time from the carb, right? I will also check the wiring, it would make a cleaner look to have that wire from the fire wall instead of just rigged from the coil.

 

About the flares, they are zg flares, I bought them off my brother who was going to use them on his subaru.  i think that they give a classic aggressive look to the truck.  I am still debating, I mostly want them for looks, not so much function, so I wouldnt be cutting up the wells, just drilling the holes for the bolts. Although I havent found many 521's with the flares, other than the one that pops up for every picture on google. lol i got the flares for $75, as appose to buying an entire truck thats flared, which is wayyyy more and i dont have time or space for it right now haha

 

So I can use up to 4" lowering blocks with out any clearance issues of any type, right? I dont want my truck slammed, i just want a nice lower stance to ephasize "minitruck" haha

 

Also, would i have to shorten my drivshaft for the 5spd swap with the dogleg transmission? From what i understood, the dogleg was the shortest one that bults right up.

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just pump the gas so it dumps in the carb. See that it does this. If not then toruble shoot.

If you see gas and it starts then you have fuel. After that youll have to trouble shoot more but if it fires off I assume the ignition is good.

 

I done a 3inch 2deg lower blocks made by Belltech 6202 is the part numbeer if I remeber right. then I droped the front lower by unscrewing the square bolt far as it can go with out taking the jam nut out. Youll figure this out. I dont remove spring as it can cause axle wrap and never liked they way yhey ride. Looks badass but need practibility also.

 

Just because the flares were cheap you dont have to use it.

 

 

I put the stock rims painted white with the hubcaps and Cooper small whitewalls and get more looks than when I had Chrome Pathfinders on.  I think Stock trucks lowered look cool than ones with Armada rims on ther or Escalade wheels but that is just me.

510s look good mordernized but trucks look better as a classic JUST ME.

 

with the flairs you might have to get the rite wheels and ride height(lower alot more than you think) to make it fill in the gaps in the wheelwells so thats why I stick with the stock set up

 

 

No shortening with 77-79 5 speedtrans but a mount modification. I have NOT done it.  Theres a write up on here about that. the 521 use a 22mm nut on back to hold flange. newer ones dont have this like a 510 yoke

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http://www.tires-easy.com/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=135&cart_id=66789571.135.27973&Breite=175&Quer=70&Felge=14&Speed=&LoadRange=&kategorie=6&Marke=Cooper&ranzahl=4&tyre_for=&x_tyre_for=&Herst=Cooper&rsmFahrzeugart=ALL&search_tool=standard&details=Ordern&typ=R-111765

 

 

when you click on the tire it dont show a white strip but in intial look up of tires tha size it shows a white stripe.

I bot these cause they were made in USA

 

I think this was the size on a stock 521 rim but might be 185 or even a 195 size tire I would have to ck

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