dat521gatherer Posted September 30, 2008 Report Share Posted September 30, 2008 should i grab the flat top pistons or the whole block? looks like cylinder number 4 had some trouble. intake valves measure 1 5/8 roughly. it came off a l16. i got the 1600 valve cover with it too. i haven't cleaned it up to look for cracks. also didn't look at the head gasket or block very close. i'll post some more pics of it when i clean it up a bit. Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted September 30, 2008 Report Share Posted September 30, 2008 ya i'd grab those pistons for sure ;) nice lil high comp l20b :) Quote Link to comment
datsunfish Posted September 30, 2008 Report Share Posted September 30, 2008 Doooood. Grab the works if you can get it for cheap enough. The work has been done to get the flattops in there so thats cool... Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted September 30, 2008 Report Share Posted September 30, 2008 no thats a L16, i was sayin it would make for a nice high comp L20b sorry if i confused ya Quote Link to comment
Phlebmaster Posted September 30, 2008 Report Share Posted September 30, 2008 Nice find! Get what ever you can, you could end up with some more nice stuff. Looks like #4 cylinder just got some water in it, was the head loose when you pulled it? Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted September 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2008 if i can scrape up the funds today i'll get the block. the head wasn't loose but the head bolts just broke loose easier than all the other heads i've pulled. maybe it was the half inch breaker bar that made it feel that way instead of my old way of using a 3/8 drive with a wrench on the end for leverage.:D after i got the bolts out i didn't even have to tap the head, it just came right off. Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted October 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2008 picked up the short block today. when tacoma pull-a-part says short they ain't foolin. no timing cover, crank pulley, flywheel, water pump, oil pump, hell she even said the oil pan wasn't included.:eek: anyway i'll post pics later. after tax i paid $40 for the head and cam w/sprocket and $70 for the short block with oil pan. crank sprocket fell into my tool box along with all the bolts and worm gear. $110 total. compared to a long block that is $108 after tax. Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted October 1, 2008 Report Share Posted October 1, 2008 man they worked you over good eh.. my local place wouldnt have raped ya so bad.. they might of even used lube :P but atleast you got the stuff Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted October 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2008 yeah, the head is probably worth all that cash and fun by itself.:D Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted October 1, 2008 Report Share Posted October 1, 2008 for sure, i paid $125 for my a87 P-nut Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 1, 2008 Report Share Posted October 1, 2008 Probably L24 pistons in it. Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted October 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2008 didn't the original sss package come with flat tops and su's on a l16? how can i tell if they are l24 pistons? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 2, 2008 Report Share Posted October 2, 2008 May not be possible they both have the same specs. Quote Link to comment
pl521sss Posted October 2, 2008 Report Share Posted October 2, 2008 didn't the original sss package come with flat tops and su's on a l16? how can i tell if they are l24 pistons? L16sss came with dome SU's You should be good even if it's an L24 flat tops. Maybe they used the same piston on L16sss and L24 Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted October 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2008 got them cleaned up somewhat. what do these stamped numbers mean? piston #1 has a 2 and pistons 2,3,4 have a 3? all have corresponding numbers on the top of the block. now for my ignorant questions. i want to have the block and head resurfaced. do i need to take the pistons out of the block and the valves out of the head? i'm pretty sure the valves need to be removed for this i just hate doing it, especially without removing the cam towers. i've read your never supposed to remove the cam towers cause they are line bored from the factory, but i did on my l20b. Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted October 28, 2008 Report Share Posted October 28, 2008 Yes, everything has to come apart so it can be cleaned after the machine work. You don't want any metal shavings in your oil passages. Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted October 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2008 i figured as much. i wonder if my cool little numbers will disappear after resurfacing. Quote Link to comment
SHADY280 Posted October 28, 2008 Report Share Posted October 28, 2008 naw you dont get pistons surfaced. the numbers will stay. the numbers really mean nothing. 2 of the pistons have had contact with the valves, you can see the smileys. did the timing chain break? either way some rings, a good hone and some bearing/gaskets that thing will be good as new. that cam may be a performance one if the valves hit, never know, measure the lobe height and compare it. Quote Link to comment
RandyinRenton Posted October 28, 2008 Report Share Posted October 28, 2008 Ok, now I'm confused. The bore of a L20B is 3.35", right? And the bore of a L16 is 3.27. The bore of an L24 is cited as being 3.3. Not sure if they dropped the hundredths on the L24, but if it is 3.3 even, are you depending on the rings to make up the .05 in the L20B? If you're boring the L16 to fit the L24 piston wouldn't you be better of boring it to fit the L20B piston? Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted October 29, 2008 Report Share Posted October 29, 2008 possibly but from my understanding the l20b pistons are dished for lower compression Quote Link to comment
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