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L20b questions


Andres131313

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Oh shit.  It begins.  Moms will be elated!

 

Use your manifold stud with a chain tab to bolt the chain to.  Basically you need to get from a flat bar with a hole for the manifold stud, to a chain link.  How you do this is up to you, but most rented engine hoists will come with it already on the chain per my experience.  

 

chainhoist.jpg

 

that thing in the middle is what you need.  Don't use 22g sheet metal either.  It may damage your ego.  

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By the way.  I think this is a bad idea to pull the engine because of emissions crap.  The snowball effect is inevitable when you are in a shared workspace, and you are young, therefore your life is generally too exciting to be messing with this crap every night

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What do you mean about the emissions? I have no life other then that car. Mom is already not happy I have the damn car anyways XD

Smog = Emissions in my comment. Seems like a trivial problem to risk open heart surgery. Many patients never leave the operating table with a pulse. Have you tried bribery? A couple hundred dollar bills might get what you need. And it's less expensive than what you are about to endure.

 

No life other than that car? Well, I can relate.

 

Mom will generally fail to recognize the lessons inherent in the restoration and upkeep of a car. It's nothing to resent, it just is her perspective. Which, thankfully differs from yours.

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Clutch? What clutch?

 

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It's well worn but still in good shape. You should see what some worn clutches look like.

 

 

What is the size of the bore on an l20b?

 

The bore is 85.000mm to 85.050mm from the factory. Its very difficult to be that exact and rather than throwing away otherwise good blocks they are graded into four? over/undersize and you may find a number stamped into the block beside the cylinder. Pistons are the same, very expensive to throw away ones that are slightly too big or small so they are also graded into four size ranges. During assembly if a bore is a #3 oversize a #3 oversize piston is mated to that cylinder to give it the perfect 0.009" to 0.018" side clearance. (or very lose) This saves waste and reduces costs.

 

Your L20B piston/cylinder WAS a perfect fit at one time but there is going to be some wear on the walls and clearance for the rings may be above the minimum. Yes, sometimes you can get away with a hone and re-ring but it should be carefully measured or you will be disappointed in the results.

 

If over boring your block for oversize pistons, give them the the machinist so he can measure them exactly and bore to perfectly fit them. Just saying they are 20 over isn't really enough.

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So should I just get the stock rings? The bore looks fine I don't think I have to hone it out.

 

If you are NOT going to an over size then the stock 85mm rings will do. You will still have to hone the walls to roughen them up. The new rings will wear in to them and make a good seal. Honing is similar to roughing them up with sand paper.

 

 

What's wrong with the gas sender. The gauge doesn't read???

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Already honed them with my honing tool and drill. Has gauge doesn't move and the temp won't either. I took the dash out and sent some signals throw the prongs and the gushes moved and there's nothing missing from what I can tell. I checked the plug on the sender on the gas tank and it was plugged in.

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Temp and gas gauge both not moving is a clue. Both are powered buy a small voltage regulator. If the regulator quits then both stop working. As you can see solving the problem first is cheaper than replacing things like the sender... which wouldn't have fixed it anyway.

 

I don't have any FSMs for the A10 so check all the fuses. One of them powers the gauges. This might fix the problem.

 

If not the volt regulator is likely in the gauge cluster. It can usually have the contacts cleaned and it will work.

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