Andres131313 Posted August 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Lol. Stop defending yourself by saying you're a Chevy guy. These are simple motors. Very easy. If you can build a Chevy-there is no way you can't put an L together. I've been rebuilding 2AZ-FE Toyota 4 cylinders at work lately. 1 a week for a few months now. I have read nothing on how to do so. It's just nuts and bolts. Set to TDC before any disassembly-paint the shit out of everything for reference. Sorry my questions have bothered you. I'm not going to post anymore. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Don't worry about negative comments from people, if I worried about that stuff, I would have killed myself a long time ago, I just read what is important in all the posts, and ignore the rest of it. It's not that important to get things exact to the degree, I don't even count links anymore, I just eye the cam and put it together, it's started every time so far, and the one time I was off a link, and it still started, but I did not like how it looked when I ran it to TDC when I double checked every thing, so I moved it a tooth over the next day. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Your posts are not bothering me. But the "I can't because" should not be here. It really is just nuts and bolts. If it comes apart, it can be put back together. Just breathe. Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted August 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 The book has the timing marks all on the right side of the engine. When on mine it's all in the center. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 L16 will use the common 5 or 6 marks on the pulley. later the L18s(imported crate motor that I seen) and the L20s will use a 1 mark on crank and the sawtooth timming plate. can always pull the plug and ck the piston location. one way to cheat is just open up the oil filler cap and when the cam lobe is in the 9 o clock position your coming up on the compression stroke then you will see the crank dimple come up close to TDC. wheile keeping the chain on the tight side you ck the cam sprocket timming marks. However as we rebuild these motor the new adter market cam sprockets are not as good when it come to marking on them. melling Cloyes and others use a cam sprocket that have the holes in the wrong spot so you cant see the V in back of sprocket or don't have anything. Taiwan chains are ok but not brite linked mark. So to make sure one must gently put the front cover on and see using the crank if its timed. be honest most time s the cam sprocket is Ok unless its sharp. the real things that need replaced is the slack side guide and tensioner. and even on the tensioners some fit better thank others. the vid I mad is a general guidline(made just one nite no script) not prefect) . Its up to you to get the best avail stuff and in dought we can still help. as being a Chevy man never over torq alum motor parts!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted August 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Thanks. There wasn't much wear on the sprocket so I just used the original cam. Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted August 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 So I took off the head again and looked closer at the cam and I saw makes that make no sense to me They are on every one. The car did sit for 20 years but if it was that the makes would be in a straight line but their not. What is this? Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 seems like poorly adjusted lash pads or worn Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 The cam is hollow and oil is fed in through the cam towers and out the holes to lube the rocker/cam lobes contact area. The dark patch or stain is where the rocker isn't contacting the cam. About 0.010" or 0.012" or you valve clearance. The rocker makes contact just after the cam lobe comes around rides on a cushion of oil. 1 Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted August 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 So I go to put it back on and the 3rd cylinder short bolt on the cam bearing broke the threads inside. The size was m8 1.25 so the next size is m10 1.25. $25 for one bolt. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 You (too late now) should never remove the cam towers. Usually the bolts strip in the soft aluminum. Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted August 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 That's what the book said to do. How do I take the cam off without scratching the pads and lobes? I have it fixed now only took 2 mins. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 Loosen all the adjusters all the way down. Remove springs. Spin cam and all the rocker arms will come out with a little wiggle. Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted August 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 What is the size of the keepers on a w58 head? Trying to find a tool to remove them. My compressor won't work Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 thats was nothing to worry about. back side should not be alot of wear. I persoanlly would not take the cam out unless you have too. 1 Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted August 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 I wouldn't if I didn't have to put everything together again because the shop didn't get all of the shavings out. So I really need to get a tool. Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted August 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 I wouldn't if I didn't have to put everything together again because the shop didn't get all of the shavings out. So I really need to get a tool. Quote Link to comment
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