Andres131313 Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 So I'm reading the book and it keeps saying there's a timing mark for the cam and crank. All I found for the crank is a red dot (TDC) and can't fined a damn thing for the cam except a small notch on the cam plate. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 http://youtu.be/6WCSh_6GA0k watch all of his videos 1 Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 and you should really limit the amount of threads started for one motor... maybe ask mike, if he can merge all of your threads into a single thread where you can ask questions, they will be answered. 1 Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 look through the top hole, you will see the notch that lines up with the notch in the cam plate. 1 Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted August 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Eh? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 http://youtu.be/6WCSh_6GA0k watch all of his videos Everything needed is here, eh? Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 so what came back from the machine shop? the head, block? Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted August 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Head the block will be in about a year when I get more money. New valve seats! The works cost about 300. Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted August 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Everything needed is here, eh?Yes but what he doesn't explain is what to do when the damn cam gear doesn't have notches or what to do if you can't see through a hole. That's why I was getting confused because when the gear was on I couldn't anything. Duralast sucks Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 3rd rodeo ain't turning out too well either, eh? 1 Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 doesn't look like a machine shop head, that 300 dollars was spent on, did you get a re-grind with that? almost any machine shop wont touch a head without cleaning it, especially with that type of work... Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted August 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 What do you mean? Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Yes but what he doesn't explain is what to do when the damn cam gear doesn't have notches or what to do if you can't see through a hole. That's why I was getting confused because when the gear was on I couldn't anything. Duralast sucks im pretty sure in one of his vids he talks about aftermarket timing chains Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 What do you mean? what dont you understand? Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted August 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 In my defense I work on Chevys. They are a lot easier then this. And the head is dirty from me. And the bearing never came clean. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 lol im not attacking, just saying for the most part a head is a head, and if i paid for new valve seats the head better be cleaned, decked (checked for spec.) and re-ground. Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted August 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 I did the decking myself. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 how? do you have a mill? Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted August 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Yep I've been a machinist for about 11 years. (Grandfather insisted on having inch me learn his trade young before he died) little tip he told me. Always use 90w instead of cutting. It sticks to the bit better and keeps things cooler. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Yes but what he doesn't explain is what to do when the damn cam gear doesn't have notches or what to do if you can't see through a hole. That's why I was getting confused because when the gear was on I couldn't anything. Duralast sucks Hainz's video is for Datsun L series cam and timing components. We can't read your mind and... Eh? doesn't help. Pictures of what you have helps The L16 is set on the #1 hole on the cam sprocket at the factory. This should work for you. If the chain is stretched or the head was milled you can try setting it on the #2 hole to compensate. You could try the #2 hole anyway. If the low speed torque and performance increases just leave it there. If you notice no difference leave on the #1 hole. This looks like a newer after market sprocket and chain so probably in good shape. Quote Link to comment
Andres131313 Posted August 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Hainz's video is for Datsun L series cam and timing components. We can't read your mind and... doesn't help. Pictures of what you have helps The L16 is set on the #1 hole on the cam sprocket at the factory. This should work for you. If the chain is stretched or the head was milled you can try setting it on the #2 hole to compensate. You could try the #2 hole anyway. If the low speed torque and performance increases just leave it there. If you notice no difference leave on the #1 hole. This looks like a newer after market sprocket and chain so probably in good shape. I'm sorry. I was trying to show what I did and asking if I was right in or a link off or completely off. New crank sprocket,chain, tensioner, rails. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 but you have to post a pic of the new stuff on to really tell Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Lol. Stop defending yourself by saying you're a Chevy guy. These are simple motors. Very easy. If you can build a Chevy-there is no way you can't put an L together. I've been rebuilding 2AZ-FE Toyota 4 cylinders at work lately. 1 a week for a few months now. I have read nothing on how to do so. It's just nuts and bolts. Set to TDC before any disassembly-paint the shit out of everything for reference. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Put the crank at TDC Put the cam lobes at 10am and 2pm on number 1 cylinder, there should be 42 links between the crank dot and the cam sprocket dot/number, which ever number you choose. The rotor should be pointed at a post on the distributor cap, that would be where #1 wire would be, the firing order is 1, 3, 4, 2 counter clockwise, if it is not pointed at a post, then you have set it up wrong at some point, and you will have to drop the oil pump and set it up correctly. 3 Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 wayno for the win! Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.