edin Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 In an effort to improve and prep my goon for a drive from NH to IL (it already made it from CA to NH nine months ago), I decided that the vice grips holding the down pipe to exhaust manifold needed to go. I got myself a set of tube headers (unknown mfr) and installed them last week. Two issues: Small and a nuisance: On startup and rough idle, they tap against the frame rails. Sounds pretty jank. Not a huge deal. Big and fairly unacceptable: there is some pretty significant interference between the steering arm and headers. I can only turn the wheel one revolution left, but I have full lock right. Anyone see this before? I feel like if the headers were made for a 510, they should take into account the stock steering and body. My only thought is that the standoff I have for the dogleg 5spd swap could be slightly off which is making the headers point down to have more interference with the steering rack. Thoughts? Pics to follow soon. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 Those are very common issues with inexpensive headers. Quote Link to comment
edin Posted June 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 Those are very common issues with inexpensive headers. What are my options here? I tried to search ratsun for similar issues but could only find classified ads... Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 Ask the vendor for a refund. Is your 510 stock? Perhaps the headers work fine with stock 155SR13 tires and L16 engine. Quote Link to comment
Ranman72 Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 heat it and pound a dent into it to clearance the steering box or refund and buy a better header taping on the floor is also very common Quote Link to comment
Nuclear Water Boy Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 In an effort to improve and prep my goon for a drive from NH to IL (it already made it from CA to NH nine months ago), I decided that the vice grips holding the down pipe to exhaust manifold needed to go. I got myself a set of tube headers (unknown mfr) and installed them last week. Two issues: Small and a nuisance: On startup and rough idle, they tap against the frame rails. Sounds pretty jank. Not a huge deal. Big and fairly unacceptable: there is some pretty significant interference between the steering arm and headers. I can only turn the wheel one revolution left, but I have full lock right. Anyone see this before? I feel like if the headers were made for a 510, they should take into account the stock steering and body. My only thought is that the standoff I have for the dogleg 5spd swap could be slightly off which is making the headers point down to have more interference with the steering rack. Thoughts? Pics to follow soon. Hanover? Sweet I'm in Danville, NH my in laws are in Enfield. We need to meet up and go for a cruze or something along that line. So where from Cali you from? I moved here in '90 and am from Whittier, Ca. I have a "69 box flared 2-door with S14 SR20DE N/A and all the typical mods. So about your header woes is the motor a L16/L18 or L20? If L20 the header needs to be specific because of the taller block. But it does sound like you simply have a badly built header. I have a stock exhaust manifold you can have that's in really good shape. I also have a header for an L20 that's been on the wall for years. It's the one designed for the round port exhaust head I'll likely never use it because I'll never go back to a L motor after having an SR. I also have a couple electronic distribuitors if you haven't upgraded from points yet. I have lots of left over L series engine pieces. Lou 1 Quote Link to comment
edin Posted June 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 So returning the headers isn't an option (bought them used from ratsun, actually). Izzo told me my wagon's got an L18 swap. I'm also thinking the motor mounts are pretty shot because that thing moves A LOT. I'll start with replacing motor mounts and see if it pushes it up a little more for more clearance and dent the rest of the way for clearance on the steering arm. Quote Link to comment
KyushaKai Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 Maybe run 620 mounts? I know people substitute them for for 510 mounts when they do SR swaps because they're a bit taller. IDK, I just came home from a bar so it's all drunken thinking. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 15, 2014 Report Share Posted June 15, 2014 I WOULD KEEP THE 510 MANIFOLD. get a Y pipe made. M klotz on here had the flanges made. Quote Link to comment
LimpMode Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 I agree with Hainz. This is a "510 header" on a 510. After market headers suck Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 In an effort to improve and prep my goon for a drive from NH to IL (it already made it from CA to NH nine months ago), I decided that the vice grips holding the down pipe to exhaust manifold needed to go. I got myself a set of tube headers (unknown mfr) and installed them last week. Remove vice-grips and replace stud. Bolt up properly and will last for ever. Stock manifold Fits perfectly every time. No need to butcher your down pipe. Never rusts out. Is quiet Runs cooler. Costs $10 if you have to buy one. People throw them away. Never leaks Never comes loose. Standard equipment on all L16/18s nothing to buy Header It's lighter. Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 What are my options here? I tried to search ratsun for similar issues but could only find classified ads... I hate to be a bandwagon guy but keeping your stock manifold is your best option((like mentioned by guys up there smarter than me)).. But if you HAVE to have a header, try cutting it way up by the collector and have your muffler shop start bending from there. But i can almost guarantee even if it fits,, it won't be the last time it gives you heartaches. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 I found this out in '78 on my '71 521. Cost $80 in '78 money!!!!!!!! Took a whole weekend to get that prick on. Had to remove the torsion bar. Kept hitting shit. Head wouldn't tighten up and leaked water X2. It rattled, and rusted in three months. WTF? where's the 30hp I was expecting???? Why is it running exactly the same??? Worse, I threw the manifold away!!!!! I miss laying in the slush tightening the flange bolts every month. Fuck headers! 1 Quote Link to comment
edin Posted June 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Yeah yeah yeah alright alright I get it. Vice grips were because the bolts sheared and are stuck inside the downpipe. I'll move back to the stock manifold eventually but it's still in NH and I'm in Chicago for the summer. Thanks for the input, folks. Seems rather unanimous that headers are the wrong choice. Whatever, I'm learnin. Quote Link to comment
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