daegodog Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 We just finished our z22 rebuild and are getting ready to start it up but don't have any oil pumping up to the head so we are in a holding pattern until we figure it out. I primed it before install and aligned the punch mark but nothing seems to happen. My questions begin with... Is there a way to prime the oil system with everything installed? Thanks in advance for any help. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 take pump out and fill with oil/ turn it the correct way to see if oil pumps out. distributor Turns counter clock wise when your trying to start. So if this dont move its a sign of a proplem You have the the sump pickup installed????????? It can happen? Quote Link to comment
daegodog Posted May 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 I will do it again to be 100% sure but that is how I installed it. Oil does come out. The distributor turn counter clockwise. I did install the pick up tube. Almost forgot too and caught it at the last second lol. I was told that we might not be able to produce enough rpm without starting it but I don't want to do that without knowing if oil is pumping. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 This is me I just primed it with oil install per spec. I poured oil over the cam and down the chain closed the valve cover and I had the fuel pump out and I hand primed the carb so the carb was full.(one can pour gas down the carb also) Installed the fuel pump then I started it, It started right up and watched the oil pressure really close and it pretty much flowed in 10-20 secs. But this is just me. Done 2 motors and no prplem Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 The distributor does turn correct? If it makes you feel better you can pull the pump, dizzy and the shaft that connects the 2 then re install the pump. Find a long flathead screwdriver and a socket that fits over the handle. Now find an attachment for your electric drill to connect the socket. Use your drill to turn the screwdriver. The screwdriver fits down in the dizzy hole into the pump. Or if you have a piece of round stock long enough heat it up and pound a flat on it and put that in your drill instead of the screwdriver setup. Or do like said above and make sure it has plenty of oil/assembly lube and start it but watch it carefully. Did you fill the oil filter? If not do so. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 I pumped oil from the oil filter acess to the front cover using a tube also if your reaaly worried about it Quote Link to comment
daegodog Posted May 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Please forgive my ignorance here.... but are you saying to go ahead and start it but watch the oil pressure carefully? I removed and re primed the pump. When I turn it over there seems to be some oil, very little, starting to build in the head. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 You could pull the spindle out and insert something like this. Pop the valve cover off and then kick the drill over until you see oil coming out of cam Re-install primed pump/spindle.....good to go Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Yes I would just start it but this is ME But I also have a mechanical oil pressure gauge also to verify. But remember I have oil on the rockers before start up anyways so Im sure they can go for a few seconds. As I had a new cam I had cam break in grease on them also 1 Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 I am not saying fire it up and hit the freeway, but it should be ok to fire it up and see if it builds pressure. If ot doesnt after 30 seconds shut her down Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 To prime the system before I fire one up, I went out and bought one of those weed sprayers that you pump up. I removed the spray wand at the end of the hose and installed a brass barbed, threaded fitting to go in where the oil pressure sending unit goes. Dump 4 qts of oil in the sprayer, and pump it up! The oil will enter the system and disperse in all directions. Be sure to turn the engine over by hand about 1/2 turn for ever quart that goes in. This is the type of sprayer I'm talking about. You don't have to worry about a dry startup. It's never failed me; there is oil throughout the entire system as soon as you hit the key. Guaranteed. Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 ^^^ I used a pressure paint pot from a yard sale, but the concept is the same. Pressurizing it externally, then you know oil is coming out all the cam lobes. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Dont be a Pussy, prime the pump, oil the rockers and start it 1 Quote Link to comment
kelowg Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 start engine and let run like 5 secs, shut off and do that 1-3 more times until psi goes up or oil light goes off. after which start and run it like normal checking for leaks or other issues. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 You are all talking about pre-lubing the engine. The Z22 oil pump is self-priming, so don't call it priming. As mentioned by Hainz, lube assembly on new parts and oil over the rockers is all you need. If however you want to verify no blocked passages, then pre-lube the engine while you watch for oil flow. Quote Link to comment
daegodog Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Ok so we have finished it. Thank you all for all of your advice. I did re prime the pump. I think I was expecting more oil but that did the trick. Then we tried to fire it up. Found out the distributor was 180 off. Thanks to what all of you said about the pump that was easy to take care of. Got it running then fine tune the timing. It is running like a bat out of hell now. We will take it easy for about 1000 miles for break in but right now it sounds and feels like a whole new truck. Thanks again for all of the help. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Your being a Pussy again. Just drive it like you would any car. if its going to break its going to break. When I did my 521s L16 I started did the cam 20min break in or what ever it was then drove to wor like it was nothing. Maybe reck the valves later or so but most time just ck for leaks.water pumps front cover. fuel ump ect..... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Check valve lash 0.013". Check oil and water. Drive it! Don't baby it. Don't idle excessively or run at the same speed. Accelerate smartly through the gears. Take out on highway and floor it from 40-60 fifteen or twenty times and let slow down by itself. If you want good sealing rings you have to force them against the cylinder walls HARD! Slow easy break ins allow blow by to form their own paths past the rings just like a river carves a channel. Rings need to grind themselves in fast and snug and then polish the walls and themselves for a nice tight seal.. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 soemtimes people put the dizzy mount on the front cover 180 off thus resulting in the cap being off but the rotor points in the same spot. Quote Link to comment
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