Datsun4Life Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Hello, I'm new in here , hello everyone and I'm seeking some information about the 620 datsun pick up.. From 1972 to 1979, All datsun 620 pick up are all matchable/compatible in body parts, interior, front look, hood and engine bay ? What's the best year of the Datsun 620 pick up to have. More reliable , less headaches or what year is more valuable, Also any of those years are any difference like from thinner interior to wider interior, or engine bay size change from shorter to a little longer front nose, metal from bumpers are all matchable, or any other parts can be match to other different years of the datsun 620 ? any size or difference on the frame. which year are more compatible to the other years. Thanks any help and advice in regards about my questions, since I'm going to buy a datsun 620 pick up this weekend I want to make sure what's the good and bad. but any help in regards to my questions above will help me thanks for your time. Quote Link to comment
Guest Rick-rat Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Any 620 is only as valuable as some one would be willing to pay. Different frame on along bed. Any can be reliable if maintained. the earlier years had kingpins and drum brakes. Later years have ball joints and discs in the front. king pin and ball joint front ends are not interchangeable. I have a 73 and converted it to disc brakes . It is easy to work on and no pollution stuff to worry about. It is a daily driver and would not hesitate to drive it cross country Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Yes 1978-1979 is best. It has disc brakes, electronic ignition, best seat belts. Quote Link to comment
MantisX620 Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Theyre all awesome if you plan to work on it as a project. Get it running well and you can drive these bitches to the moon and back........twice. 1 Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 The changes that can be seen are all subtle. I dont believe there were any structural changes or dimensionally different. Badges, grills, emblems, engines, and of course disk brake starting in 1978. Reaaly depends on whether DEQ is a pain in the ass where you live or if you just want a project. Quote Link to comment
mcordero8 Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 I think you are making a good choice. These are cool looking little trucks. When Purchasing look at the bottom floor boards, some of these tend to rust out and try to get one with a Weber Carb. The OEM ones will always give you problems. Good luck on your purchase and post some pics when you get it. Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 I have a '73. I would recommend '74 and up, though '74 was the only year for the L18, so just make it '75 and up to get the L20B, but really '78 and '79 are the best. I'm not sure when the changes were made, but I found out the hard way, that the '73 has a more narrow wheel track than some of the others. The rear diff/axles are less wide than later years, which caused me to have to buy wheel spacers to run the same/similar wheels as other guys on here. Also, the front track is more narrow too, also causing me to have to run wheel spacers up front. Along with the L18, the 4spd transmissions changed models in '74. Like mentioned before, the '78 and '79 trucks have all the goodies like; L20B, optional 5spd, electronic ignition, disc brakes, ball joint suspension, retracting seat belts, all the stuff you would want to buy and swap on anyways. Personally I like the early grill better, but that's something you can swap out with the later trucks. Also, to answer your question; the body panels will swap over. The differences are underneath. When looking for one, if it's been sitting for a while, inspect the fuel tank. Those are getting harder to find. And there were a few different styles of fuel tanks made, so finding the one you need gets a little more difficult, and a universal tank from Summitracing or other supplier, starts around $100 and goes up from there. They tend to rust at the pinch weld and at the mounts. The mounts bolt to the pinch weld and dirt and moisture build up in between the tank and the mount. Mine is rusted out both in the pinch weld and behind the mount.... A good windshield is nice. Replacement windshields are $150 and up. Most everything else can be found, or upgraded. If buy a truck that just needs a couple things, you should be able to put up a WTB ad here and get what you need. Also start a build thread and list the parts your looking for on there. But if the truck you buy needs quite a few things, you will probably be wise to just buy a parts truck, get what you need from it, and sell the rest to us! Another tip; When you start a build thread, post the link to your build thread, into your signature so other people can easily find it... I post all the links that I like to have easy access or reference to, in my signature. Not necessarily for other people, but it makes my life easier when I want to find one of my threads. Good luck hunting, and keep us posted! Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 More thoughts concerning your questions: Rust: The bottoms of the doors rust out. The rockers rust out. The four cab mounts in the floor boards rust out. The hood hinges break under the cowl. The top of the radiator support rusts out were it meets the inner fenders. The hoods rust behind the front trim piece. Fenders rust on the lower dog leg towards the rocker. The mounting bolt there also rust off or breaks. Front valences are still made new. I recently saw some door skins for sale, though I'm not sure if they are still in production. From the ad I saw, it seemed like they are still in production. The beds rust in the front where the bed floor meets the front of the bed. Also, the bed rusts along the pinch weld on the lower third of the sides. Open the tailgate and look for rust around the tailgate hinges on the bed side. Search eBay parts for "Datsun 620". This will give you a good idea of what's available new. A lot of the parts come out of Singapore, or Mexico. They are what they are quality wise. Some are good, some are ok, some are poor.... The newer the truck you buy, the better chance you have at finding parts at your local Nissan dealer. Check the wipers to make sure they work. The wipers transmission rods have some weak points. The early rods use a riveted "heim joint style" pivot, that is not easily serviceable, but doesn't typically wear out. The later rods use a nylon joint that is serviceable from a universal wiper nylon piece found at the parts store. Both systems use a nylon wiper pivot that the wiper arms attach to. They have three 6mm studs that bolt to the cowl. Two issues here: One, the nylon pivot tends to break with age, or in the event that someone turns on the wipers when they are frozen to the glass. Two, when trying to remove the wiper pivots from the cowl, one of the 6mm studs will inevitably shear (it happened on 3 different sets for me, even with taking preventative precautions). NOS pivots are getting extremely difficult to find, and when found, they will cost a couple hundred or more. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 If you're going to pick it up this weekend, this info isn't much good to you as you'll get what you get. Could be an L16 automatic.. 1 Quote Link to comment
5t341tH Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 great info in here guys. i just bought my 620 recently and I'm trying to figure out how the damn thing works. how do you initiate the washer fluid?? how to turn on the hazards? the HVAC controls on mine do nothing. are they supposed to blow? Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment
Guest Rick-rat Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 washer fluid, turn wiper knob to the right, fan, pull out on the bottom control lever, the one that moves from left for cold and to the right for heat, hazards, pull small knob on right side of steering column couple inches from the steering wheel. Mine is a 73 and that's how mine works, and they all work!!! 2 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s_?ie=UTF8&k=datsun+620+owner%27s+manual Quote Link to comment
5t341tH Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Thanks for the info. I guess the motor for the washer is dead. I fed it 12v directly and it did nothing. Heater blower is dead as well. My hazard switch is missing the knob so I have nothing to pull...oh well. More things for me to play with! Thanks again Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Heater blower is dead as well???????? all settings low thru High? if yes then ck input to heater fuse ect.....or gunked up Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 A few of the trucks I have had, the windshield washer motor was non working. Just take the plastic section apart and clean it. Has worked every time for me. I would also check all the fuses with a test light. Move the fuses back and forth while testing. If it has sat for a while, it may be corrosion. Also check the fuse under the glove box in the mass of wires coming/going to the engine bay. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Blower on some Datsuns is ground switched, so putting 12v to it won't make it run. Common problem is a burnt out low-high resistor. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Yes, power is supplied to the blower motor and the switch grounds for high speed and grounds through a resister for low speed. Same with washer motor. As you have at least two electrical problems, unscrew the 620 fuse box from the bottom of the dash and unplug the harness plugs. Remove all fuses and throw them away right now and soak the fuse box overnight in a bath of vinegar. Wash and dry thoroughly in the morning and instal with NEW fuses. NEW fuses!!!! This will get rid of problems you don't even know you even have. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.