Hern88ndez Posted January 20, 2014 Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 620 running strong. Now to start, I took the last week to read all 58 pages on the 620. So far what I know about how low it is from the prev owner that I bought it from is that it has 3" blocks in the back and adjusted torsions bar in the front. So what I read that people have done or advised to do (reindexing my torsion bars,bag it, takeing out the bump stops, running shorter Shocks, riding cranked(what does that mean)?, raising shock towers, using 720 4x4 springs, low profile bumps, running pinto diplomat ky b toxic shocks. the links shows my 620(black) it's at angle the back is lower the the front is higher, I also linked a pic of what I want to achieve. I will be running 15x7 wheels. I def don't want to bag it or reindexing my torsion bars. Looking to achieve a even low look. http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/114935936@N07/12041465884/ http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/114935936@N07/12041692013/ Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 20, 2014 Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 I like what I hear... and see. Quote Link to comment
Hern88ndez Posted January 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 Looking to achieve the look of the flat yellow 620 on my link, low and even in the front and rear. Any advice, guidance, sugestion? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 20, 2014 Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 Well once you are on the bump stops you no longer have a suspension. The air in the tires is your suspension. It does look cool but are you sure you can live with it? Quote Link to comment
Hern88ndez Posted January 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 Thanks KING RAT; I guess the only way knowing is by trying. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 20, 2014 Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 Yeah. You could run the lowest recommended tire pressure. Your shocks won't be needed either. Well only if you go airborne. 1 Quote Link to comment
Hern88ndez Posted January 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 I have read more and your right. I'm ordering kybs and pintos. Now, should I go to 4" lo block? And 720 4x4 leafs? Quote Link to comment
Hern88ndez Posted January 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 Also went ahead and ordered the leaf springs. To add the 4"block can I use the same system or do I need to get another kit? Quote Link to comment
GRpufnstuf Posted January 20, 2014 Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 I believe the 720 springs will get you pretty low on their own. Maybe wait to see the stance with 720 springs and your 3" blocks. You'll probably need new ubolts for 4" blocks. And depending on tire and wheel choices, you'll likely be getting the spring plate very close to pavement. 1 Quote Link to comment
Hern88ndez Posted January 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 Awesome will do thanks Quote Link to comment
Hooligan Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 Here is a pic of mine. Front end is reindexed torsion bars, extended shock towers, and cut down energy suspension bump stops. The rear is 720 4x4 leafs, 4" block, and a C-notch. My rear leafs have had 1 of the overload leafs removed due to the fact that I don't haul anything in the bed. Not that I can't, I just don't. I'm sure someone will argue this but do not waste your time and money with pinto shocks. Look at the actual specs and you will see what I am talking about. My truck actually rides pretty damn good. I have about 3" of travel in the rear, and about 1/2" up front. I know it doesn't sound like much but trust me... it is. 2 Quote Link to comment
mikeanike99 Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 Here is a pic of mine. Front end is reindexed torsion bars, extended shock towers, and cut down energy suspension bump stops. The rear is 720 4x4 leafs, 4" block, and a C-notch. My rear leafs have had 1 of the overload leafs removed due to the fact that I don't haul anything in the bed. Not that I can't, I just don't. I'm sure someone will argue this but do not waste your time and money with pinto shocks. Look at the actual specs and you will see what I am talking about. My truck actually rides pretty damn good. I have about 3" of travel in the rear, and about 1/2" up front. I know it doesn't sound like much but trust me... it is. I haven't seen your truck since the 3" blocks were in it, and it was low then do you scrape a lot? Quote Link to comment
Hooligan Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 Honestly.... if you look under this truck, to this day there isn't a single scrape mark Quote Link to comment
Aibast Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 if you go lover also go stronger on the springs and shocks. You will need shocks - they work both ways. Helping the suspention move more constantly and not just move around. Also springs need to take the load of the car. You can't drive on bumpstops, Your handling would be to bad. You just have suspention moving out but not in. So if you hit a bump it all hits to the trucks frame and the wheels have no place to go. I personalu can't imagine driving a car thats suspention doesn't work - I love forcing cars trough corners @ high speeds. That needs a proper suspention to be safe. So if you go lover go with the whole package, you will get a truck that handles like on rails. I have lovered 3 cars - all volvos and they handled fantastic. As a daily driver they where a bit to stiff. Thats why I love my Datsun truck - its high and soft with long suspention travel. Great to drive on bumpy unpaved roads. If you just drop it and ride with constantly bottoming out its bad handling and horrible to corner. I'm no expert on Datsuns but if I'd lover my trucks this is what I would do. Blocks to the rear + overload leaf to the leafsprings + change the shocks top mounting points to give them more room to move and mot bottom out. Front just lover like you all do it, but also move the shocks mount higher + stiffer shocks to keep things from moving around to fast. If you just cruise around then do what ever you want as long as its safe to you and other drivers. Lower tyre pressure helps, but also gives you indirect feel of the car. In the end it's all up to you. 2 Quote Link to comment
Hern88ndez Posted January 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 I believe the 720 springs will get you pretty low on their own. Maybe wait to see the stance with 720 springs and your 3" blocks. You'll probably need new ubolts for 4" blocks. And depending on tire and wheel choices, you'll likely be getting the spring plate very close to pavement. I looked around and the 4" blocks you do need new uboltz. I don't scrape now, I do bounce but that's normal. Ill wait to add the 4" blocks till I add the shocks and springs. Thanks GRpufnstuf Quote Link to comment
Hern88ndez Posted January 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 if you go lover also go stronger on the springs and shocks. You will need shocks - they work both ways. Helping the suspention move more constantly and not just move around. Also springs need to take the load of the car. You can't drive on bumpstops, Your handling would be to bad. You just have suspention moving out but not in. So if you hit a bump it all hits to the trucks frame and the wheels have no place to go. I personalu can't imagine driving a car thats suspention doesn't work - I love forcing cars trough corners @ high speeds. That needs a proper suspention to be safe. So if you go lover go with the whole package, you will get a truck that handles like on rails. I have lovered 3 cars - all volvos and they handled fantastic. As a daily driver they where a bit to stiff. Thats why I love my Datsun truck - its high and soft with long suspention travel. Great to drive on bumpy unpaved roads. If you just drop it and ride with constantly bottoming out its bad handling and horrible to corner. I'm no expert on Datsuns but if I'd lover my trucks this is what I would do. Blocks to the rear + overload leaf to the leafsprings + change the shocks top mounting points to give them more room to move and mot bottom out. Front just lover like you all do it, but also move the shocks mount higher + stiffer shocks to keep things from moving around to fast. If you just cruise around then do what ever you want as long as its safe to you and other drivers. Lower tyre pressure helps, but also gives you indirect feel of the car. In the end it's all up to you. I hear ya; thanks for the advice, will keep ya updated. Def will look into moving the shock towers up heigher. Thanks Aibast. Quote Link to comment
mikeanike99 Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 Honestly.... if you look under this truck, to this day there isn't a single scrape mark Jacob scrapes every now and then and goin up our driveway. You would probably scrape coming up our driveway. Quote Link to comment
TruenoGuy Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 After lowering mine with 3" blocks and cranking down the torsion bars I thought the ride was completely livable for the great improvement in the looks department. The only issue I've run into is the carrier bearing mount won't line up anymore after replacing the rubber. Has anyone else ran into this? I don't want to threadjack but I figured it was be helpful info for the OP too. Quote Link to comment
willz Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 I haven't had a problem with it ....yet Quote Link to comment
mikeanike99 Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 ....yet You say that as you know for sure it's going to happen :| Quote Link to comment
Hooligan Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 After lowering mine with 3" blocks and cranking down the torsion bars I thought the ride was completely livable for the great improvement in the looks department. The only issue I've run into is the carrier bearing mount won't line up anymore after replacing the rubber. Has anyone else ran into this? I don't want to threadjack but I figured it was be helpful info for the OP too. I have angle blocks and also have a 1" carrier bearing spacer. My driveline angle is straight from front to back Quote Link to comment
TruenoGuy Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 I have angle blocks and also have a 1" carrier bearing spacer. My driveline angle is straight from front to back That sounds like a good set-up, I'm gonna get mine up on the lift at work and try to get some spacers installed so the rubber goes back to a relaxed position. I'm surprised more people haven't mentioned anything about spacing the carrier bearing when talking about lowering. Quote Link to comment
GRpufnstuf Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 I haven't spaced my bearing yet. It will happen next time I'm under there swapping third member and probably transmission. My pinion angles all look good and it doesn't vibrate so it hasn't been a priority. Most people talk about 1" but that won't level my driveline, and I think there is more room to go a little higher. The other option I'm considering a 1piece driveshaft. Where are pics of your truck? Take before and after shots, I wish I had more before of mine. Measure before ad after too. From top of wheel opening to hub center will give you the difference in spring height without tire profile involved. Quote Link to comment
Hern88ndez Posted January 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 So installed front shocks today....achieved that even look I wanted. Still have to install rear shocks(ordered the wrong ones) going with Monroe. Still waiting on bushings to come. http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/114935936@N07/12138373096/ http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/114935936@N07/12137733955/ http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/114935936@N07/12138052703/ Has anyone ordered lug extenders for their 620?(if so what's the site) also looking to purchase 280z flares(anyone have any For sale? Quote Link to comment
Hern88ndez Posted January 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 Found lug extenders(12mX1.25) but if anyone has the 280z flares ill be more then happy to pay. Quote Link to comment
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