Aluminum Radiator in 620, easier than you thought!

[Radim]

You'll need:
Aluminum Radiator (This is a champion radiator)
10mm socket
Slightly longer radiator bolts, Thread pitch are M8-1.25 (I used 30-35MM)
8x rubber washers.
2x M8x1.25 nuts (with lock washers or nylon nut if you decide not to weld the nut on the core support)
4x M8 washers
Top rad hose off newer radiator
Alumi-seal


Take off your radiator.... Four 10MM bolts around the radiators... easy enough.

The radiator bolts up in factory locations, either driver's or passengers, If you want it 100% centered you'll have to make your own brackets but here's how I did it. (It's honestly slightly off)

Drill a hole through your core support for the driver's side mounting bracket, You'll need a LONG drill bit, or good measuring, measure four times drill once! ( I had to hog the hole I drilled a little bit)

Circled in RED below.
Make sure the radiator is LEVELED!

You can chose to make your own brackets but this was the faster, easier, way of doing it.

 

Aluminum radiators will wear out, and decay over time due to something called ELECTROLYSIS, to avoid this you have to space the radiator off the chassis, use said rubber grommets/washers to space it out away from the core support.

 

 

 

The radiator touched the top of the core support, even with the spacers. I didn't want to space it anymore than I needed to so I bent the core support in a bit.

 

 

Pour a little bit of alumi-seal to make sure any small leaks are sealed (Don't over do it)
Run the truck for a bit, bleed the system, and let the alumi-seal work it's way around the system.
 

 

Then enjoy your new aluminum radiator! Although I still need a shroud... if anyone local has a 510 Radiator shroud I'd love to test fit it..... 620 shrouds, Z shrouds don't fit this radiator.

Only reason I ended up using this radiator is in preparation for my L23B, stock radiators cool perfectly fine and having one re-cored will cost just as much if not less than these radiators.
 

[Radim]

Remember, You want as little gap as possible to more efficiently cool. I'm still planning on running foam between/all around the radiator/core support, and find the proper fan shroud, I will post updates when I do!

[cruznude]

Good post Radim.  Understanding that your preparing for your L23 is the reason for swapping out the original?  Was there something wrong with it?  Whats the difference between the 2?  My motor is basically all stock beside a little head work and a weber and even though I havn't started it yet as the front clip isn't on yet, my original should be fine, correct?

[Radim]

My truck is a 73. it had a smaller radiator for the L16. From what I understand later model 620s had three row radiators to cool the L18/L20s a bit better.
The L23 is very heavily built and will run quite a bit hot, so I wanted the best possible cooling. When the L23 goes in within the next weeks I'll also be converting to electric fans and an aluminum shroud. I'll post how-tos on that too!


If your engine is mostly stock, stock radiator should cool it plenty!

[mrbigtanker]

So relay up a pusher fan of at least 10" or go 12",just trim the front support behind the grill.And just for the record a punched out block to 2.3 is going to run hotter period,trust me i know from experience.I used 2 spal fans[pullers]relay them up and it kept the engine in check but it will still run hotter,i have them if you want to buy them.I give you good deal,and i will let ruckycharms suck you off to.

[mrbigtanker]

 

Did you say 2.3

[mrbigtanker]

 

The radiator that is gone now and replaced with..

 

[Radim]

Nice!

Yeah, I do need the fans.

I'll be running it on E85 for a while, but I'll be making a trip up to Canby next year which I hope you may be able to join in.
For the trip I'll have to revert back to 91-93 and de-tune it quite a bit though.

E85 will have it running cooler too!

[mrbigtanker]

Maybe Canby,seems like a long road trip and Alian wants to be in my tent already if you know what i mean.haha

[Z-train]

All non-A/C 620's came with two rows. A/C trucks had three.

[flatcat19]

Was this the 510/521 radiator or the 620 radiator that is offered?

 

Dimensions? 

[Radim]

Core Dimensions: 10-5/8" High x 19-3/8" Wide x 2-1/4 Thick (3 Row Core)

Overall Dimensions: 16-1/2" High  x  22" Wide x 2-1/2" Tank Thickness

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-1968-1970-1971-1972-1973-Datsun-510-620-Pickup-3-Row-Aluminum-Radiator-/120981729598?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A620+Pickup&hash=item1c2b12b13e&vxp=mtr

[flatcat19]

Thnx. 

[Lee R]

Dude....you've been busy.  Looks good.

[Dawa]

look at you, being helpful & shit

[Radim]

Haha, not really Lee, It's been sitting for weeks! Thanks mang! We need to have a beer soon!

 

lol! Fucking Dale, I know right!

[jrock4224]

So relay up a pusher fan of at least 10" or go 12",just trim the front support behind the grill.And just for the record a punched out block to 2.3 is going to run hotter period,trust me i know from experience.I used 2 spal fans[pullers]relay them up and it kept the engine in check but it will still run hotter,i have them if you want to buy them.I give you good deal,and i will let ruckycharms suck you off to.

 

 

I put dual pushers on my champion radiator .... don't ask me how I like champ radiators right now ...2 of the 3 I bought at once leak .... one like a sieve....I ran dual 8 inch pushers and a 220 switch they rarely turn on and when they do there on for about 3 minutes if that...waiting to hear what champion is gonna do about my radiators...the working one works great ... the one in my truck the bottom core has a seeper  and the third one is a Asian water feature ... yet I need no zen