EdwardK Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 My clutch is going out so I plan on replacing it next weekend. Got a kit with the clutch assembly and the thorw-out bearing... What else should I replace while I'm in there? Also, someone told me I had a bushing out that was making my shifter vibrate in the higher rpms. Which bushing would that be if any? As always thank in advance guys, -EKA Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 on mine there is pin that holds the shifter on. its also what the shifter pivots on. if thats sloppy it can cause a sloppy feeling shift and a rattle. some other trannies are different. whats trans do you have? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 Shifter bushings for the 71B transmission. These are brass but the factory ones are all plastic... I also made some from a door hinge repair kit. 1 Quote Link to comment
GRpufnstuf Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 It's usually a good time for the rear main seal. And trans mount is cheap enough you could do a new one. 1 Quote Link to comment
EdwardK Posted October 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 Shifter bushings for the 71B transmission. These are brass but the factory ones are all plastic... I also made some from a door hinge repair kit. This actually explains a lot... Mine lacks those altogether. Quote Link to comment
EdwardK Posted October 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 on mine there is pin that holds the shifter on. its also what the shifter pivots on. if thats sloppy it can cause a sloppy feeling shift and a rattle. some other trannies are different. whats trans do you have? Not entirely sure. The stock four speed. Same as what Mike posted up. It's usually a good time for the rear main seal. And trans mount is cheap enough you could do a new one. Both good ideas. The rear main especially. I may do that if I feel I have the time. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 12, 2013 Report Share Posted October 12, 2013 The rear trans seal is less than $5 and two minutes to do. Highly recommend doing this rather than removing the driveshaft and trying to get up in there later. Quote Link to comment
EdwardK Posted October 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2013 The rear trans seal is less than $5 and two minutes to do. Highly recommend doing this rather than removing the driveshaft and trying to get up in there later. I was actually going to pull the engine as I currently have no way to get the truck high enough in the air to remove the tranny. Quote Link to comment
rufusswan Posted October 14, 2013 Report Share Posted October 14, 2013 The 38388 hinge repair kit is the kind of thing I love about this place !!! I got the new clutch in my 620 and it is without any bushing in the shifter/pin so it's as sloppy as hell. Just a couple minutes later the have the part set aside for me to pick up. How in the blazes did you guys figure out that a door repair bushing for 95 Dodge Dakota would fit???. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 14, 2013 Report Share Posted October 14, 2013 . The 38388 hinge repair kit is the kind of thing I love about this place !!! I got the new clutch in my 620 and it is without any bushing in the shifter/pin so it's as sloppy as hell. Just a couple minutes later the have the part set aside for me to pick up. How in the blazes did you guys figure out that a door repair bushing for 95 Dodge Dakota would fit???. :blush: Actually I got the wrong ones. I think it was supposed to be a Dodge Van? I had to slit those with a hack saw and pinch them in... then it worked. Sorry I forgot that. Here you can see the cut. I may also have had to dress the sides with a file to get it into the shifter. ZERO slop. 1 Quote Link to comment
rufusswan Posted October 14, 2013 Report Share Posted October 14, 2013 The counter lizard had the 38377 kit which is 3 pair of bushings, so I may get three different sizes. I can do a fair bit of 'hillbilly fabrication' if needed. I'll let you know how it works out. Quote Link to comment
rufusswan Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 It rained today so I drove into town. I got Dorman 38374 which had 4 different sizes. Some fit ID and some OD but none were perfect. I select the set that matched those pictured above. After one notch cut with with hack saw they were still too large one the OD. I simply took out the 'end gap' in the vise and cut a second notch. Perfect fit. Installed in the shifter and drilled out the ID. Looks like OEM bushings to me. Installed in tranny and I have no slop in the shifter at all. Easy and fun fix. Thanks all !! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 16, 2013 Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 That's good. Did you have to file the sides to slip it it? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 16, 2013 Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 I did my 5 speed also with the door kit. I had the multi hinge kits with various sizes and just drill the bushing out a few thousands to make it fit. Never will go bad now. Quote Link to comment
rufusswan Posted October 16, 2013 Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 That's good. Did you have to file the sides to slip it it? After the first notch it was still too large on the OD to get into the shifter, so I put it back into the vise, tightened until the first cut was closed then I cut a 2nd notch right on top of the first. Easier to do that that to shave the outside on the bench vise. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 No I mean the shoulders on either side. so it slips down between the 'ears' on the transmission. Quote Link to comment
EdwardK Posted October 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 ...Alright. SO, I almost have the engine out. Everything is loose and swinging freely I just can't get the engine forward enough to disengage it from the tranny. The oil pan is butting up against part of the steering system. The bar that runs under the engine. Do I remove the bar under the engine or do I have to pull the pan? Or is there some trick I'm missing entirely here. Whatever the case is, I need this done before Monday (Doable if I can get the engine OUT. lol) sooo, as usual, I've turned to you guys. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 Jack the front of the transmission up as far as possible. This should lift or allow to lift the very front of the engine and clear the cross brace. You can unbolt the brace and put it back later when done. You can also unbolt the idler arm and allow the steering cross rod to drop down too.. Quote Link to comment
EdwardK Posted October 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 Jack the front of the transmission up as far as possible. This should lift or allow to lift the very front of the engine and clear the cross brace. You can unbolt the brace and put it back later when done. You can also unbolt the idler arm and allow the steering cross rod to drop down too.. Unbolting the idler arm, that's the arm that connects the cross rod and control arm to the frame yes? Do I need to have the wheels up off the ground for that, or am I alright having the car on the ramps still? Thanks again. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 Ramps are ok, but you may have to wiggle the tire a bit to allow slack so it can drop. It's not a huge amount but probably enough. Quote Link to comment
EdwardK Posted October 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 Ramps are ok, but you may have to wiggle the tire a bit to allow slack so it can drop. It's not a huge amount but probably enough. Came out like butter. :D So now that everything is off and I'm examining everything I have more questions. And some photos this time to go with them. So this is the old and the new throwout bearing... but... they don't look the same anyway... Thoughts on this? Aand my clutch. It doesn't appear to be damaged or worn, well it might be two or three hundred micrometers worn down than the new one. So I'm thinking the throwout bearing went bad. It still spins freely but I can't get it off that assembly in the previous photos. Imma apply some heat and see what happens. Quote Link to comment
rufusswan Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 No I mean the shoulders on either side. so it slips down between the 'ears' on the transmission. No, the shoulders were left on the bushings, and the bushings did just barely fit inside the shifter without touching each other insde. I did have to bring the 'ears' into parallel as they had been abused, but I made them parallel enough that the pin fit with room for the snap ring groove. Shifter with bushings (with shoulders) installed just fit into ears. It contains to slop at all on the pin and shifter does not slide left to right. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 The rounded side goes against the pressure plate diaphragm fingers. j This other flatter side goes against the collar. The collar is pressed on by 'crushing' in a vice. Use a gear puller to remove the old bearing. My clutch is going out so I plan on replacing it next weekend. Got a kit with the clutch assembly and the thorw-out bearing... What else should I replace while I'm in there? -EKA Maybe we should have asked you what you mean by clutch is going out. Sometimes the hydraulic system goes dry or leaks and the clutch will not disengage properly.There is nothing wrong with the clutch itself. Because the PP and clutch disc look good. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 on the bottom photo you posted, the one in the collar looks like a 225mm t/o bearing. the new T/O bearing by its self is a 200mm. now dont get things mixed up. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 cant edit on this computer the photo with the red rag. The T/O bearing are different. measure the the clutch surface. Mike should have caught this that the T/O bearing are different I notice when I was first in to 510s I have a bad flywheel and once refurfaced my clutches lasted alot longer. I was replacing them once a year and everthing looked goo. If looks like a old K Tel record from the 70s get it resurfaced. but measure the flywheel wear area AND POST BACK. SHIT THAT COULD BEE A 510/521 collar on there. You just got a weird year and who knows what was done before by other owners. x ref rockauto.com and they will have photos of the part. and size Quote Link to comment
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