datzenmike Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 Mike should have caught this that the T/O bearing are different ha ha I think it's just the same bearing just front and back sides shown. The earlier 30502-14601 used on the 510/521 is compatible with the later 30502-21000 bearing on L18/L20B 710/620 200mm or 225mm. Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 That's good. Did you have to file the sides to slip it it? i usually just spit on it and push. goes right in :devil: :rofl: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 If the sides want it they can come in for it. 1 Quote Link to comment
EdwardK Posted October 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 Maybe we should have asked you what you mean by clutch is going out. Sometimes the hydraulic system goes dry or leaks and the clutch will not disengage properly.There is nothing wrong with the clutch itself. Because the PP and clutch disc look good. Hydraulic fluid is topped off and the fluid appears clean. Reason I thought the clutch was going is because first and reverse have become a real PITA to get in. Everything disengages fine, but engaging first and reverse it grinds. If you press it in gently it grinds and then whatever is grinding will stop spinning and you can put it in gear. Quote Link to comment
EdwardK Posted October 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 cant edit on this computer the photo with the red rag. The T/O bearing are different. measure the the clutch surface. Mike should have caught this that the T/O bearing are different I notice when I was first in to 510s I have a bad flywheel and once refurfaced my clutches lasted alot longer. I was replacing them once a year and everthing looked goo. If looks like a old K Tel record from the 70s get it resurfaced. but measure the flywheel wear area AND POST BACK. SHIT THAT COULD BEE A 510/521 collar on there. You just got a weird year and who knows what was done before by other owners. x ref rockauto.com and they will have photos of the part. and size The OD's are different, but the ID's are identical. I figure the T/O bearing that came with the clutch kit is the one I'll need for the new clutch. Flywheel surface is fine. Definitely within tolerance still. I doubt that's the collar that's on there, 'cause I have another four-speed tranny that came out of a nearly identical '74 that has the same collar. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 Hydraulic fluid is topped off and the fluid appears clean. Reason I thought the clutch was going is because first and reverse have become a real PITA to get in. Everything disengages fine, but engaging first and reverse it grinds. If you press it in gently it grinds and then whatever is grinding will stop spinning and you can put it in gear. . It could still have trapped air in it. The air will compress and take up pedal travel needed to disengage the clutch. Quote Link to comment
EdwardK Posted October 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 . It could still have trapped air in it. The air will compress and take up pedal travel needed to disengage the clutch. I'll go ahead and bleed it once I get everything back together then. At least I should have a spare clutch for the 610 now. lol While I'm thinking about it, what kind of fluid does the clutch use? Getting the engine to line back up with everything is a real pain. Heh, I got the transmission almost all the way engaged, but I figure I'll stop for now as there's no need in putting bad vibes into the car. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 Hydraulic brake fluid will do. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 20, 2013 Report Share Posted October 20, 2013 ha ha I think it's just the same bearing just front and back sides shown???? the bearing on the T/O sleeve is different than the new bearing. the high ridge is in the inner side of the new bearing. the older greasey bearing the high ridge is the outer. it obvious the back side is the collar side. to pull a bearing off I put the collar in the vise so its loose ans the bearing rest on the tio side of vice. the find a socket that fits inside the bearing pusing the collar out. Bang it hard then put bearing on and open the vive up and sqeeze together Quote Link to comment
EdwardK Posted October 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2013 ha ha I think it's just the same bearing just front and back sides shown???? the bearing on the T/O sleeve is different than the new bearing. the high ridge is in the inner side of the new bearing. the older greasey bearing the high ridge is the outer. it obvious the back side is the collar side. to pull a bearing off I put the collar in the vise so its loose ans the bearing rest on the tio side of vice. the find a socket that fits inside the bearing pusing the collar out. Bang it hard then put bearing on and open the vive up and sqeeze together They are definitely different don't get me wrong. I'm just saying they both fit fine. But as it's the bearing that came with the whole clutch kit, that's what I'll use. Obviously what's on there worked, (well I say worked, it might have been my problem all along. :P) but the new one is designed to go with the new clutch and pressure plate. I used the vise method coupled with some heat from a heat gun. :D Worked great this morning after a good cup of coffee. Quote Link to comment
EdwardK Posted October 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 . It could still have trapped air in it. The air will compress and take up pedal travel needed to disengage the clutch. Okay, something is definitely wrong with my hydraulics. Bled it and had NO pressure in the clutch. Let it sit bled it again and there was air in the lines again. I can pump the cylinder on the tranny and it starts blowing air through the lines. So I'm thinking it's busted... Should I rebuild it or replace it? How hard are those cylinders to find? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 From dealer under $50 so probably $25-$30 at an auto parts store. Maybe these... ...are ok? Just the hydraulics at fault. Don't throw away. Quote Link to comment
EdwardK Posted October 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 From dealer under $50 so probably $25-$30 at an auto parts store. Maybe these... ...are ok? Just the hydraulics at fault. Don't throw away. Yeah, I was definitely going to keep as a spare for my 610 since it appears almost new. What would that cylinder be called? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 The master is what your foot pumps the hydraulic fluid with, and the slave (answer to above question) coverts hydraulic pressure into clutch arm movement. It's a great way to eliminate linkages and cables between a stationery body and a moving drive train.. 1 Quote Link to comment
EdwardK Posted October 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 Running and driving daily again! Thanks guys. Turns out it was the slave the whole time, so I have a brand new clutch and an extra for my 610 now. lol C'est la vie I suppose. Replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses after putting the engine back in (They were dry rotted by an obscene amount.) and I was good to go. If nothing else I learned how to pull this engine and swap it if need be in less than a day. Quote Link to comment
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