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Everything posted by EdwardK

  1. That is a great question! I put back whatever I took off; and it's been long enough I don't recall. If the stock bump stops are the kind that ride on the shaft of the strut insert, then I guess mine had rotted off and I'm not running any at the moment. lol If they're attached to the strut top hat, then I'm running whatever rubber was still left. I went out last night and finished the install of my modified alternator bracket, and threw some stickers on the car to help improve the smiles per gallon even further. Unfortunately my partner's lease on this hangar expires this week, so Anita is going back to a dirt driveway. Probably won't get a lot of work done until we get into a different building. (I just hate dirt so much.) The last photo is most of the old parts that got replaced over the last year minus a battery, multiple brake boosters and a second alternator. Feels like a lot less with it laid out like that. I've got some New Year's resolutions that kinda run parallel with this car so there should be some more neat stuff this year.
  2. So TL:DR springs are fine; and don't bottom out, at least they don't bottom out on the Corkscrew at Laguna, and that's good enough for me. lol I ended up using 280ZX cartridges and machined out a Delrin insert to take up the extra space in the shock body. The travel length between the two was the damn near the same so I wasn't concerned about it. I've got photos for this and all the other ""mods" and I'll get them uploaded soon™. I swapped in an internally regulated alternator from a 200sx as my regulator bit the dust two days before Laguna, and then spent the rest of my free time tidying and prettying the car up in general. I sprung an oil leak from the fuel pump base at the event. Not sure where from, but I've already replaced it with a new one, I'll do an autopsy on the old pump whenever I next get bored(Ha!). Decided to drill out my alternator bracket to allow for M10 hardware since the M8 stuff has been stripped for as long as I've had the car. I had gotten reeeeal tired of adjusting the alternator every couple hundred miles, now we're golden. I've added to my future list; so many rubber bushings and some adjustable suspension components, both to fix the toe in the rear and to get the front camber under control. But those are a couple months down the road if not a couple years. In the meantime, I took the car to Laguna, it was a riot. Here are photos and a really crappy video from it. (Including a crunchy missed shift because I am bad.) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KfsFHVRD_OI&t=40s
  3. I found an individual selling some 280ZX struts already converted to coil overs(which I know I said I wouldn't do anytime soon), reinforced and setup for rally racing. They're very reasonably priced, so it seems like a no-brainer. I'll need brakes, bearings and even more springs, but what the hell, if the price is right, right? Sent them a message, fingers crossed. Does anyone know if the pre-fabbed 510 Rollbars also fit in the 610? A lot of the companies that build them list them as 510, 610, 710. And while I'm hopeful, I'm also skeptical.
  4. Well phooey. I take back everything I said about rebuilding these struts. It appears to me that someone has been in them before me and replaced the good stuff with inserts. Sooooo, idk what I'm gonna do right now. Between this and my daily deciding it needs all of the repairs my finances are shot, so I guess I'll just leave her on jack-stands for now... I guess I'm cutting these guys down and ordering some 280zx inserts in a couple paychecks. Judging from the numbers I've found I should only have to cut it down by around 1 1/2", but I'll get the inserts and verify.
  5. Yeah, They're Kings from Oz. They have a fairly high rate to them so they compress a lot less than the stock springs do. It's an advertised 30mm drop and the rears measured out at about 25mm, so I'm not too worried about bottoming out. As I said earlier, I might do 280zx struts in the future, but it's just not in the current plans.
  6. Springs got here last week so I started putting them in last weekend. Rears went in with minimal problems, (Only rounded one nut, new one ordered.) Here it is with the rears installed and set back down on the ground. It's minimal, but I wasn't looking for much. Fronts were slightly more interesting. Someone in the past apparently lost one of the lower strut bolts and thought this was a good idea: Through some miracle of fate the threads are undamaged. So I ordered a NOS bolt and a gland nut wrench (I thought I had one but was unable to locate it, also didn't have the will to make my own.) Under the boots the front shocks are clean and dry, so I have high hopes I can replace the oil and call it a day this weekend once the tool and bolts are here. I also ordered ball joints. These are extra floppy.... And lastly have a goofy, not quite artistic picture of all the tools and stuff: I plan to replace all the bushings sometime over the winter and will probably go through and repaint all the suspension components just so they look less crusty. But at least right now I want the car drivable for a thing next week. We'll see how that goes. Thank you for the thorough information. I'll probably do this upgrade eventually, but at least for now while (crossing my fingers) the struts look easily rebuildable I'll stick with the stock stuff. I have no good explanation for wanting to avoid adjustable coil-overs aside from I just don't want them on this car at this point in time. lol
  7. Per the rules yeah. But seeing as these brakes could hold up to what I'm assuming was fairly hard and serious racing, I'm of the opinion something is screwy with mine. Rubbers and adjustments are cheap, especially since I already have new lines, just haven't installed them yet. I'll try that first Originally I was going to do the 280zx strut/brake swap and I still may in the future. Iirc you keep the 610 tops and springs but the 280zx strut bodies are longer and you end up having to move the spring perch or am I misremembering that? But at least for right now rebuilding and re-springing the struts I have should be fine. Didn't know about the larger bearings though. That's good information to mull over.
  8. Just a small update from my time working on the car yesterday. Fixed an oil leak from the fuel pump base, realized I ordered a sedan interior door handle and not a coupe interior door handle. And found my check valve on the brake booster to be working fine, so I guess the cheap a/m unit is cheaply made. Shocking, I know. After doing some more research on brakes, it is my understanding that the old SCCA ITC cars kept the stock brakes. I'll toy around with what I've got and see what I can do, the brake system is obviously not in tip-top shape with the failures I've had, but even when the booster was working the car just felt massively under-braked to me. The plan this week and next is to re-adjust the rear drums, see about doing some corrosion mitigation on the front, replace all the rubber lines and flush the system. We'll see how they feel after that, if I'm not 100% confident in them she's getting a Wilwood kit. Also as a side note, after talking to one of our hangar neighbors who used to race 510's I've got another small list of things to tack on between now and October. Still retaining the stock seats for street driving and meets, but I will be swapping the seats out whenever it goes to the track for something with less of a propensity to break spines.
  9. I'll give it a shot, thanks!
  10. Can't be any worse than some of the old bucket trucks I drove in an earlier job! In all seriousness, I'd rather keep the booster, but replacing it every four to six months is gonna get old quick. I'll check the valve next time I'm down at the hangar, hopefully it's failed and a new booster and valve get me sorted for a longer period of time than last. I would assume being as old as these cars are and as cheaply made as the replacements are that they still use rubber diaphragms. I haven't taken either of the old ones apart to verify it was actually rot or a split seam. But I agree with you, in general rubber is the enemy.
  11. My thoughts exactly on the fuel vapor. A check valve is fairly universal so I'll probably find something that isn't NOS this time around. I'll do some more poking about at some of the other builds but I'm also inclined to agree with you on the bumpsteer kit. I'll save the $80 now, sling it around the track and see how she feels. It's at least a fairly quick and easy install.
  12. I haven't found fluid on the back side of the MC when I've changed the booster in the past. It is a new(ish) unit, I bought it in like 2015 and installed it last year before the drive across the country. I've also installed a vacuum check valve but after messing with it I'm thinking it could be bad. Both previous boosters smelled heavily of fuel vapor and this one does as well. I'm ordering the Wilwood 10" kit for the front; rears will come at a later date and when that get's done I'll do the 1" MC as well. Was thinking about a 280zx 15/16" interim upgrade in the meantime. I'm also currently lamenting over my options for safety belts, I'm debating a half cage and four point harnesses, but the rear seats would need to come out as I refuse to cut them up. So perhaps a well designed bolt-in that I can swap back and forth whether I'm at a meet or at the track... Regardless the stock safety belt geometry is abysmal. King springs just got ordered from Australia, just waiting on a shipping invoice, front struts will get rebuilt with motorcycle fork oil, rear shocks will get replaced with some good units after I do some more research. I'm unsure if 30mm is low enough to warrant a bump steer kit, but I'm ordering the steering box and frame braces from Ermish-Racing so I'm tempted to grab them anyway and bundle the shipping. The goal right now is Laguna Seca in October, and I think it's doable, but lots to work out in a fairly short amount of time.
  13. Sorry for the delayed response. Worked perfectly, except for the rubber gasket having a breakdown. C'est la vie.
  14. It's been a little bit since I updated here, my apologies. All the 3d printed stuff I put in the car melted in the California Valley summer, so I'll redo them in something more heat resistant than PLA soon. Not really a whole going on aside from general cleaning, scrubbing, buffing, etc. So much work to do. I also have a pretty substantial amount of stuff planned for the next three months, but I'm ironing out details at the moment, more to come on that soon. Has anybody had problems with these cars eating brake boosters? I'm on my third one since I left SC. The diaphragms keep cracking in such a way that the booster turns into a massive vacuum leak with the pedal depressed. I'm tempted to just delete it and go with an oversized master cylinder at this point. Also anyone have any suggestions for image hosting sites that aren't Photobucket?
  15. Anybody know how to get the lock tumbler off the bootlid? It looks to me like it just slides straight out, but after some serious wiggling I'm kinda sketched out about either bending or breaking something. Also any idea on how to straighten out bent up window chrome window trim on this guys? I'm thinking about printing a positive and negative that are about 6" long and just pressing them repeatedly to straighten them back out.
  16. I've been playing around with 3d printers throughout my time at college and so I thought I would put that knowledge to work on some interior upgrades. First and foremost, a cup holder. Because that's a creature comfort that really matters to me. I'm not 100% happy with the fit on this or it's aesthetic, but it will work for now. I also decided I was tired of having a tachometer ziptied to my steering column, and there was a rattle inside my gauge cluster. So I figured I'd kill two birds with one stone and went about pulling a decent chunk of the dash apart. Disassembled the cluster and found my rattle. The trip meter reset had come apart into pieces, so after finding all of the clips and stuff floating around inside I sourced a new spring from a pen and reassembled it. Lo and behold, my rattle is gone AND my trip meter can actually be reset now. I did not however replace my instrument lights while I was there, and I should have but that will just be a project for another day. I decided this would be a good place for my Tach. It's gonna look dumb, but less dumb than it's previous location. I also have no idea what the goo is. Something tells me this car's previous life somebody had epoxied a watch into here. But even though the part is more or less ruined I would feel bad cutting it up. So I put my degree to work and designed a replacement. In the end I only got three points of contact correct, but that's close enough for me for now. I don't want perfection at this time, just functionality. Here it is unpainted next to the original and my tach: And here it is installed. Again, I'm not 100% satisfied, but it's better than it was. Anyway, I've got a few more projects in the works for this car and I'll update here as they get finished. Y'all be good.
  17. So, it's been a while. Long enough for the rattlecan paint to have faded a lot and long enough for me to have my degree. I never got this car running for college, however I did get it running for my move across the country from SC to CA. Broke in a new motor and transmission by driving cross country. I had to adjust the fan belt twice, and had my brake booster fail, but aside from that the only major issue I had during the trip was the van deciding that it was time for new tires.
  18. Alrighty~! Back to working on this beast since the truck decided to take a dump. She also has a name now, so things are getting serious. "Anita" because I need a car for college. I just ordered everything needed to get her back running and on the road, just a couple of things to address first, hydraulics all need to be flushed and checked for leaks, tires, fiberglass the bad holes until I can take the windows out and weld everything and I'm giving it a crappy once over rattle-can job to inhibit rust at least temporarily. Here's the new color, not particularly happy with it, but it'll work And another swatch to show the difference Also you may recognize the wheels from my 280zx because that car has been put up on blocks and is gonna be parted out as a lost cause. If I can locate a pressure washed to borrow I'm going to undercoat everything including the engine bay Anybody want my old steelies? And also lastly, the door latch just went out, and I discovered this in the door... It looks like a shotgun blast... But anyway, I have a timeframe of about twelve weeks to get her up and running, so I'll keep everyone posted. Also as a side note, my carpet is completely ruined. I was thinking about finding a cheap victorian style rug and cutting it to fit. I think it would look so ridiculous it'd be cool.
  19. EdwardK

    The Tofumobile

    Let me see if I can find another truck in one of the local scrap yards first. If I can't I'll definitely go this route.
  20. EdwardK

    The Tofumobile

    It's a Kirkey race seat of some sort. I bought it from a guy who was selling the parts off his Spec E30. It's actually surprisingly comfortable with the padded cover.
  21. EdwardK

    The Tofumobile

    Can you get me some measurements off it? Depth and diameter? I may be able to recreate the cups.
  22. Westminster, SC 1974 620 L18 400k+ (Smokes like hell! New motor soon.) "The Tofumobile"
  23. EdwardK

    The Tofumobile

    So... It's been a while. I haven't got a whole lot done what with bouncing between jobs and getting my stuff together for college. Uhm... Cheap poaint, changed the tires again (This size fits sooo much better), and did a couple of piddly things here and there. Nothing major yet. However, driving home yesterday my cab decided to hemorrhage. I knew the rust was bad, but I didn't think it was this bad. So, I'm still undecided between fixing this cab, or sourcing out a new one. The passenger side, if I remember correctly is perfect. But I haven't had the carpet out in a couple years. I'll go check it later today I guess. And of course I'll leave you guys with my usual 'just for giggles' photo. I actually might end up putting this in here, as it frees up a lot of legroom for my 6' 3" body... But I dunno yet. Anyway, if anybody has ever fabbed up cab mounts let me know. It doesn't look particularly hard to make the cups and weld them in. And barring that it anyone has a decent cab here in the southeast they're looking to get rid of drop me a pm.
  24. So uhh... *Maniacal laughter* ... Okay, so I'm not putting a 302 in it at this time. I was cleaning the shop out and that happened for shits and giggles.
  25. I'm thinking I might just put the CA in the truck and put the L18 back in until I can afford a N/A SR20... I like the weight losses, and would love to have ITB's under the hood.
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