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Coilovers?


CameronT

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Why would you want to? What advantage would this give you? I guess you mean a coil over that fits over the shock absorber? Because you need shocks. What about the torsion bars?

 

Take a good hard look at your shock. Not much room to fit anything on there is there?

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"Good shocks but it's bouncy."


Then either the shocks are too light or the springs too stiff.

I doubt if the springs have been changed so you have what everyone else has and no one complains about the ride. In order for the shock to absorb energy there has to be suspension travel. Has this 620 been lowered? If so your suspension is, or is close, to bottomed out and may be riding on the rubber bump stops. Basically the suspension is the air in your tires and the shocks are just along for the ride. The truck will feel like a big rubber ball.

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this is a common question in regards to 620s.

im eventually gonna run coilovers all around on my truck. 

why? 

to get rid of the torsion set up, which will:

-make ride height adjustment quicker/easier

-give more undercarriage ground clearance in the front. 

 

get rid of the rear leafs which will

-again, make ride heigh adjustment quicker/easier

-again give more undercarriage clearance (u bolts, rear strut lower mounts hang down REALLY low) 

-get rid of unsprung rate

 

all of this should give you a firmer ride, less body roll, and depending on the coilovers you choose ( a lot of members

here run qa1) you can make your ride more comfortable.

 

also, you will better be able to pick out your own spring rate for the front rear however you like. 

as well as get rid 

 

to modernize 

 

how its accomplished:

for the front, at least, you can either have yourself, or someone you know fab up some mounts, 

OR our member beebani has mounts he sells. they require you to chop off the old strut mount and weld

up the coilover mounts. 

in the rear, (this part will come later for me so i havent looked into it as much but i THINK) you have to run

a 3 or 4 link, which again requires welding and shit and you a lot of guys have hacked into their bed to make

room for the whole rear suspension set up. 

 

or you can swap in another coilover ready car's front/rear end. a few examples are 240sx and miata front/rear ends. 

that would also change up your bolt pattern. 

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this is a common question in regards to 620s.

im eventually gonna run coilovers all around on my truck.

why?

to get rid of the torsion set up, which will:

-make ride height adjustment quicker/easier

-give more undercarriage ground clearance in the front.

 

get rid of the rear leafs which will

-again, make ride heigh adjustment quicker/easier

-again give more undercarriage clearance (u bolts, rear strut lower mounts hang down REALLY low)

-get rid of unsprung rate

 

all of this should give you a firmer ride, less body roll, and depending on the coilovers you choose ( a lot of members

here run qa1) you can make your ride more comfortable.

 

also, you will better be able to pick out your own spring rate for the front rear however you like.

as well as get rid

 

to modernize

 

how its accomplished:

for the front, at least, you can either have yourself, or someone you know fab up some mounts,

OR our member beebani has mounts he sells. they require you to chop off the old strut mount and weld

up the coilover mounts.

in the rear, (this part will come later for me so i havent looked into it as much but i THINK) you have to run

a 3 or 4 link, which again requires welding and shit and you a lot of guys have hacked into their bed to make

room for the whole rear suspension set up.

 

or you can swap in another coilover ready car's front/rear end. a few examples are 240sx and miata front/rear ends.

that would also change up your bolt pattern.

So there's no way to swap shock for coil?

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Dude your front end isn't designed to be that low. You are running at the bottom of the suspension travel and there is no where to go. When you hit a bump the body barely moves down and stops. The only thing left is for the tire to squash. Then it rebounds like a basketball. There's no way to prevent the rebound short of running as low a pressure as recommended. The shock absorber may even be bottomed out.

 

As for replacing with a coil spring the same thing applies. You have to have some suspension travel for a shock absorber to work. Without it, (or with very little) you are riding on or near the bump stops and the tires.

 

This is just the way it is when lowering a vehicle.

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this is a common question in regards to 620s.

im eventually gonna run coilovers all around on my truck. 

why? 

to get rid of the torsion set up, which will:

-make ride height adjustment quicker/easier

-give more undercarriage ground clearance in the front. 

 

get rid of the rear leafs which will

-again, make ride heigh adjustment quicker/easier

-again give more undercarriage clearance (u bolts, rear strut lower mounts hang down REALLY low) 

-get rid of unsprung rate

 

all of this should give you a firmer ride, less body roll, and depending on the coilovers you choose ( a lot of members

here run qa1) you can make your ride more comfortable.

 

also, you will better be able to pick out your own spring rate for the front rear however you like. 

as well as get rid 

 

to modernize 

 

how its accomplished:

for the front, at least, you can either have yourself, or someone you know fab up some mounts, 

OR our member beebani has mounts he sells. they require you to chop off the old strut mount and weld

up the coilover mounts. 

in the rear, (this part will come later for me so i havent looked into it as much but i THINK) you have to run

a 3 or 4 link, which again requires welding and shit and you a lot of guys have hacked into their bed to make

room for the whole rear suspension set up. 

 

or you can swap in another coilover ready car's front/rear end. a few examples are 240sx and miata front/rear ends. 

that would also change up your bolt pattern. 

 

Well Dawa when your ready id be more than happy to help a fellow Submariner out. ive got all the tooling and wielders you'll need and and the shop space. to make it a fairly quick job.

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I have my buddy's 620 I did front and rear coilsovers on it,and (HE!) wanted his truck 3" to the ground. I told him I wouldn't. So being his truck I did what he wanted and it was set up for 18". He changed his mind and now was 16" and its Low. From the front cross member under the oil pan its 3 1/4in. and with 2" exhaust it scrapes going up my driveway,speed bumps and the gutter. On the flat road it rides pretty nice, I have the OA1 single adjustable w/350lbs springs. I had to adjust the spring all the way up just to raise it with the 16". Its alot of work and a hassle but the ride is worth it to me.

Run4.jpg

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I have my buddy's 620 I did front and rear coilsovers on it,and (HE!) wanted his truck 3" to the ground. I told him I wouldn't. So being his truck I did what he wanted and it was set up for 18". He changed his mind and now was 16" and its Low. From the front cross member under the oil pan its 3 1/4in. and with 2" exhaust it scrapes going up my driveway,speed bumps and the gutter. On the flat road it rides pretty nice, I have the OA1 single adjustable w/350lbs springs. I had to adjust the spring all the way up just to raise it with the 16". Its alot of work and a hassle but the ride is worth it to me.

Run4.jpg

You didn't have to change the frame or cut out anything?

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So there's no way to swap shock for coil?

 

lol i didnt say that. i said the opposite of that you silly

Well Dawa when your ready id be more than happy to help a fellow Submariner out. ive got all the tooling and wielders you'll need and and the shop space. to make it a fairly quick job.

man i wish! i shoulda got to know you earlier, i JUST moved to hawaii (like landed a few hours ago)

 

Why not bag it?

baggin it works. i personally dislike bags cuz i think its cheatin :P

 

Best way to keep travel and lower it is getting a set of drop spindles for a d21 and putting them on the 620

 

 

Which only fit the front disc brake 620s I believe.

^true

 

Yes totally forgot to mention that this will not work on a 73-77 the kingpin trucks without converting them to the latter ball joint 78-79

not true

 

beebani sells the mounts for EITHER ball joint OR king pin set up. 

 

but the consensus is that one should convert/upgrade from kingpin TO balljoint. 

 

my gathered parts to do that, and eventually run coilovers and disc brakes....

-beebani's upper control arms

-later year upper cross shafts/spindles

-later year hubs

-belltechs d21 drop spindles

-lower control arm

 

i forgot the years and models for some of this shit but you gotta look that up yourself. 

 

as for lack of suspension travel, to avoid that problem you need to... increase suspension travel?

what am i talkin about? well, increase the distance between the top and bottom of the strut, for instance. 

one method people do is they 'z' their lower control arms. now youve regained that couple inches or so 

that you lost when you lowered it. 

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Sounds like your shocks are close to the end of travel due to your ride height. There is a rate of diminishing returns on the damping ability the closer you get to the end of travel.

 

The easiest solution is to move the upper shock mount up. A lot less work than going to a coilover and swapping to ball joints. Mine rides pretty nice these days. :)

 

IMG_1426.jpg

 

 

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