CameronT Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 I was wondering if I could get a couple coil overs to fit where the shock is to replace the shock on the front end, or is there a car that can take coils the same size dimensions that would work? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 Why would you want to? What advantage would this give you? I guess you mean a coil over that fits over the shock absorber? Because you need shocks. What about the torsion bars? Take a good hard look at your shock. Not much room to fit anything on there is there? Quote Link to comment
CameronT Posted October 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 I got good shocks, (kyb gas adjust) but its bouncy, just wanted to see if there is a stiffer alternative, coils would be cool but I don't wanna cut the frame and weld up another bracket, just seeing if there's something to swap out Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 Because torsion bars weigh too much, and take up too much space. I hate torsion bars so much. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 "Good shocks but it's bouncy." Then either the shocks are too light or the springs too stiff.I doubt if the springs have been changed so you have what everyone else has and no one complains about the ride. In order for the shock to absorb energy there has to be suspension travel. Has this 620 been lowered? If so your suspension is, or is close, to bottomed out and may be riding on the rubber bump stops. Basically the suspension is the air in your tires and the shocks are just along for the ride. The truck will feel like a big rubber ball. Quote Link to comment
CameronT Posted October 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 I have been lowered a lot ripped the old ones out and did smaller polyurethane ones, but my rears are load adjust I have no issues it's just the front, Quote Link to comment
CameronT Posted October 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 Because torsion bars weigh too much, and take up too much space. I hate torsion bars so much.You have coils on the goon don't you? Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 this is a common question in regards to 620s. im eventually gonna run coilovers all around on my truck. why? to get rid of the torsion set up, which will: -make ride height adjustment quicker/easier -give more undercarriage ground clearance in the front. get rid of the rear leafs which will -again, make ride heigh adjustment quicker/easier -again give more undercarriage clearance (u bolts, rear strut lower mounts hang down REALLY low) -get rid of unsprung rate all of this should give you a firmer ride, less body roll, and depending on the coilovers you choose ( a lot of members here run qa1) you can make your ride more comfortable. also, you will better be able to pick out your own spring rate for the front rear however you like. as well as get rid to modernize how its accomplished: for the front, at least, you can either have yourself, or someone you know fab up some mounts, OR our member beebani has mounts he sells. they require you to chop off the old strut mount and weld up the coilover mounts. in the rear, (this part will come later for me so i havent looked into it as much but i THINK) you have to run a 3 or 4 link, which again requires welding and shit and you a lot of guys have hacked into their bed to make room for the whole rear suspension set up. or you can swap in another coilover ready car's front/rear end. a few examples are 240sx and miata front/rear ends. that would also change up your bolt pattern. Quote Link to comment
CameronT Posted October 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 this is a common question in regards to 620s. im eventually gonna run coilovers all around on my truck. why? to get rid of the torsion set up, which will: -make ride height adjustment quicker/easier -give more undercarriage ground clearance in the front. get rid of the rear leafs which will -again, make ride heigh adjustment quicker/easier -again give more undercarriage clearance (u bolts, rear strut lower mounts hang down REALLY low) -get rid of unsprung rate all of this should give you a firmer ride, less body roll, and depending on the coilovers you choose ( a lot of members here run qa1) you can make your ride more comfortable. also, you will better be able to pick out your own spring rate for the front rear however you like. as well as get rid to modernize how its accomplished: for the front, at least, you can either have yourself, or someone you know fab up some mounts, OR our member beebani has mounts he sells. they require you to chop off the old strut mount and weld up the coilover mounts. in the rear, (this part will come later for me so i havent looked into it as much but i THINK) you have to run a 3 or 4 link, which again requires welding and shit and you a lot of guys have hacked into their bed to make room for the whole rear suspension set up. or you can swap in another coilover ready car's front/rear end. a few examples are 240sx and miata front/rear ends. that would also change up your bolt pattern. So there's no way to swap shock for coil? Quote Link to comment
CameronT Posted October 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 Fuck alright Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 Dude your front end isn't designed to be that low. You are running at the bottom of the suspension travel and there is no where to go. When you hit a bump the body barely moves down and stops. The only thing left is for the tire to squash. Then it rebounds like a basketball. There's no way to prevent the rebound short of running as low a pressure as recommended. The shock absorber may even be bottomed out. As for replacing with a coil spring the same thing applies. You have to have some suspension travel for a shock absorber to work. Without it, (or with very little) you are riding on or near the bump stops and the tires. This is just the way it is when lowering a vehicle. Quote Link to comment
91hrdbdy Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 this is a common question in regards to 620s. im eventually gonna run coilovers all around on my truck. why? to get rid of the torsion set up, which will: -make ride height adjustment quicker/easier -give more undercarriage ground clearance in the front. get rid of the rear leafs which will -again, make ride heigh adjustment quicker/easier -again give more undercarriage clearance (u bolts, rear strut lower mounts hang down REALLY low) -get rid of unsprung rate all of this should give you a firmer ride, less body roll, and depending on the coilovers you choose ( a lot of members here run qa1) you can make your ride more comfortable. also, you will better be able to pick out your own spring rate for the front rear however you like. as well as get rid to modernize how its accomplished: for the front, at least, you can either have yourself, or someone you know fab up some mounts, OR our member beebani has mounts he sells. they require you to chop off the old strut mount and weld up the coilover mounts. in the rear, (this part will come later for me so i havent looked into it as much but i THINK) you have to run a 3 or 4 link, which again requires welding and shit and you a lot of guys have hacked into their bed to make room for the whole rear suspension set up. or you can swap in another coilover ready car's front/rear end. a few examples are 240sx and miata front/rear ends. that would also change up your bolt pattern. Well Dawa when your ready id be more than happy to help a fellow Submariner out. ive got all the tooling and wielders you'll need and and the shop space. to make it a fairly quick job. Quote Link to comment
K_trip Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 - removed - Quote Link to comment
BlackBird620 Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 Best way to keep travel and lower it is getting a set of drop spindles for a d21 and putting them on the 620 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 Which only fit the front disc brake 620s I believe. Quote Link to comment
91hrdbdy Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 datzenmike you are correct on my 73 im running a d21 drop spindle/hub assembly but i have a 78 control arms. Quote Link to comment
sycloned916 Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 I have my buddy's 620 I did front and rear coilsovers on it,and (HE!) wanted his truck 3" to the ground. I told him I wouldn't. So being his truck I did what he wanted and it was set up for 18". He changed his mind and now was 16" and its Low. From the front cross member under the oil pan its 3 1/4in. and with 2" exhaust it scrapes going up my driveway,speed bumps and the gutter. On the flat road it rides pretty nice, I have the OA1 single adjustable w/350lbs springs. I had to adjust the spring all the way up just to raise it with the 16". Its alot of work and a hassle but the ride is worth it to me. Quote Link to comment
BlackBird620 Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 Which only fit the front disc brake 620s I believe. Yes totally forgot to mention that this will not work on a 73-77 the kingpin trucks without converting them to the latter ball joint 78-79 Quote Link to comment
CameronT Posted October 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 I have my buddy's 620 I did front and rear coilsovers on it,and (HE!) wanted his truck 3" to the ground. I told him I wouldn't. So being his truck I did what he wanted and it was set up for 18". He changed his mind and now was 16" and its Low. From the front cross member under the oil pan its 3 1/4in. and with 2" exhaust it scrapes going up my driveway,speed bumps and the gutter. On the flat road it rides pretty nice, I have the OA1 single adjustable w/350lbs springs. I had to adjust the spring all the way up just to raise it with the 16". Its alot of work and a hassle but the ride is worth it to me. You didn't have to change the frame or cut out anything? Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 So there's no way to swap shock for coil? lol i didnt say that. i said the opposite of that you silly Well Dawa when your ready id be more than happy to help a fellow Submariner out. ive got all the tooling and wielders you'll need and and the shop space. to make it a fairly quick job. man i wish! i shoulda got to know you earlier, i JUST moved to hawaii (like landed a few hours ago) Why not bag it? baggin it works. i personally dislike bags cuz i think its cheatin :P Best way to keep travel and lower it is getting a set of drop spindles for a d21 and putting them on the 620 Which only fit the front disc brake 620s I believe. ^true Yes totally forgot to mention that this will not work on a 73-77 the kingpin trucks without converting them to the latter ball joint 78-79 not true beebani sells the mounts for EITHER ball joint OR king pin set up. but the consensus is that one should convert/upgrade from kingpin TO balljoint. my gathered parts to do that, and eventually run coilovers and disc brakes.... -beebani's upper control arms -later year upper cross shafts/spindles -later year hubs -belltechs d21 drop spindles -lower control arm i forgot the years and models for some of this shit but you gotta look that up yourself. as for lack of suspension travel, to avoid that problem you need to... increase suspension travel? what am i talkin about? well, increase the distance between the top and bottom of the strut, for instance. one method people do is they 'z' their lower control arms. now youve regained that couple inches or so that you lost when you lowered it. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 Sounds like your shocks are close to the end of travel due to your ride height. There is a rate of diminishing returns on the damping ability the closer you get to the end of travel. The easiest solution is to move the upper shock mount up. A lot less work than going to a coilover and swapping to ball joints. Mine rides pretty nice these days. :) Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 ^^ and doin that would be a lot easier than "Z"ing your lower arms. i shoulda mentioned that.... Quote Link to comment
K_trip Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 - removed - Quote Link to comment
sycloned916 Posted October 12, 2013 Report Share Posted October 12, 2013 You didn't have to change the frame or cut out anything? No the frame is pretty much stock,I just added the 4-link tabs at the rear. Quote Link to comment
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