coil wireing?

[mklotz70]

Sweet! Nice diagram. The guys converting 510's can use most of this info as well :)

[dat521gatherer]

fisch, great idea on the diagram i cant wait for the finished one. seeing i'm using the matchbox with my ballast still.

 

hainz, i love that first diagram and think there should be a shirt made out of it. only problem is all these years everyone always says just bypass the ballast without posting a diagram. p.s finally got high speed and watched your vid the other day. nice. wish you hadn't lost the one of 521 torsion bars.

 

mike, since i', running my matchbox on the 6 vlot side on my ballast i always assumed when i upgrade my coil to bypass the ballast i would just connect both ends of the ballast together thus creating 12 volts? maybe i need to reread this.

 

fisch, god speed with that diagram. try to include the relay as unplugged and any ballast wires that will be freed up/hanging loose.

 

JUST DONT LET OUT THE FACTORY SMOKE.:lol:

[dat521gatherer]

ok you posted that while i was typing. way to keep up.:) so i assume when i put in my electronic coil i just take all 2 wires off the 6 volt end and put them on the positive side of the coil with the dizzy lead and leave the 12 volt side of the ballast black/white wire unhooked.

 

fisch i'm not trying to thread jack you it's just this thread is getting more posts than my dizzy thread did. i cant wait for your real test. leave the factory smoke in and all will be fine. btw your wires looked to have been messed with before. their missing the little plastic insulation sleeves that both my 521's have. good luck. let us know.

 

thats exactly where i put my dizzy ground wire was on my coil screw.

[ppeters914]

JUST DONT LET OUT THE FACTORY SMOKE.:lol:

Not a problem!

 

[mklotz70]

mike, since i', running my matchbox on the 6 vlot side on my ballast i always assumed when i upgrade my coil to bypass the ballast i would just connect both ends of the ballast together thus creating 12 volts? maybe i need to reread this.

 

Post a pic like his first one :)

 

I don't see how you are running the matchbox on 6v...it really should have 12v going to it. I can see you running the coil on 6v. Got a meter? Take some readings of the volts you actually have going to the dizzy in start and run key positions....I'm curious.

 

You can connect the wires from each side of the resistor together like you said....it's just not as clean. Electrically the same.

[fisch]

 

fisch i'm not trying to thread jack you it's just this thread is getting more posts than my dizzy thread did. i cant wait for your real test.

 

Not at all, I think as much info as possible should be in this thread!

 

I am not sure if I am grasping what you are saying, (Really I am a total newbie when it comes to anything electrical) but I think it is the black and white wire (that comes out of you harness from the fusebox) that you should disconnect and reattach to the + of the coil. In other words, you want to remove the black and white wire from the ballast and attach it to the + of the coil. And what ever used to go from ballast to the coil (should be a little wire) should be disconnected and left unattached? (or as mike was saying, you could connect it to the B&W wire and leave nothing attached to the ballast.)

 

ADDITIONALLY...

 

If your black/red wire went to the ballast too(as is the stock diagram), that should be connected to the + too. (My black red is already on the + side in the photo, which was prolly due to rewireing at some point. It should have been on the ballast, but I guess it does the same thing either way.)

Again don't trust me on this, I am trying to figure it out too!

[dat521gatherer]

sorry mike i lied. not on purpose of coarse. dizzy is on the 12 volt side. it's my coil thats still seeing 6 volts. please look at my pics anyway on page 2 of this link.

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=5194

[dat521gatherer]

Not a problem!

 

 

thats some funny shit right there.

[banzai510(hainz)]

dat521gatherer

 

you have your set up like this Since your still using the POINT coil and need the ballast. Its correct!!!!! the diagram is using the 510 wire color code but is the same setup.

[fisch]

I think he is running the EI dizzy with the ballast currently. He's planing ahead for dropping in the EI coil and bigger wires to get bigger spark as I understand it.:)

[mklotz70]

Like Hainz said....it's wired up right for his setup. Once he gets the EI dizzy, he'll have to change it up a bit.

 

I went back and edited the long post I made to be a bit clearer. I also took out the part about how it will act if one of the wires is left off. After thinking about it some, I realized that you probably won't be able to see that happen with the matchbox in the picture. It will do that with points....but we're talking about EI here.

 

Electrically, the diagram is good. The B/W wire from the ign sw actually feeds the ign side of the fuse box, but I'm not sure how they are connected physically....so if someone is manually chasing the wires, they may find it a bit different.

 

As for the differences in the colors....the one I've been looking at shows a black wire from the primary points in the dizzy to the coil. That seems to be the only discrepancy I can see.

[fisch]

After thinking about it some, I realized that you probably won't be able to see that happen with the matchbox in the picture. It will do that with points....but we're talking about EI here.

 

 

Mike are you saying that w/ EI we don't need the black/red wire from the KEY full on position to the + coil?

 

Because once the key is in the run position it is already getting constant 12V, and we will still have that 12V when you fully turn the key to the start position?

[banzai510(hainz)]

Fisch

You dont need the HOT START 12volt blk/red wire

 

this drawing is the same thing just the 12volt wire from car is the BLK/WHT wire.

Really cant get any simpler than this besides added the the color code for the BLK/WHT wire.

 

just make the IGN wire BLK/WHT in the drawing instead of using red

[mklotz70]

My reference was to something in the original post that wasn't needed since this was EI.

 

Yep...like Hainz said...you don't need it. I posted that first one off memory, then went back and edited it after looking at the schematic and your first pick.

 

It won't hurt anything to leave it in, but it's not needed. I should have looked at the ign sw diagram before hand :)

[Buzzbomb]

i always assumed when i upgrade my coil to bypass the ballast i would just connect both ends of the ballast together thus creating 12 volts? maybe i need to reread this.

 

The ballast is to add resistance to your wiring. So, you can wire it up any way you can, BUT if you hook a wire to it you are adding resistance to that circuit. Instead of connecting both ends of the ballast to "bypass" it, just bypass it totally as suggested in previous posts.

 

I went through this with my '70 Nova. I still run points on this, mind you, BUT I had an MSD coil on there with the ballast resistor. I did realize that the car had an actual resistor wire in place of the resistor, but was trying to play it safe by adding the ballast. The resistance wire has around 1.5 ohm, and the ballast was a MOPAR unit that had 1.5 ohms. The MSD coil has barely more than .5 ohm resistance, which isn't much. So, I had about 3.5 total ohms of resistance in the circuit. It wouldn't start right (I spliced into the ballast the full 12 volt wire described below :P ), and just seemed to be "throttled" in some way. I was unsure, asked MSD, and they specifically told me NOT to run BOTH a resistor wire and ballast. The key here is that since the old Datsuns appear to have a resistor from the factory, they don't have a resistor wire. So, with the points, you need the ballast to not burn the points.

 

My point comes in here...I've had my own trouble lately, and have been measuring coil primary resistance. The Datsun coil I have is around 1.0 Ohms, so the stock coil for an '80 720 EI (what I have) has SOME primary resistance already built in. The NEW coil I bought to check against my old coil had 1.3 Ohms, and it was the same coil pictured on the last page. IN the Haynes manual, that is actually listed as too much resistance! Therefore, if you are running BOTH that coil and a ballast, you are running too much resistance. I am nearly 100% sure my truck doesn't have a resistance wire. The resistance is built in the igntion somewhere, as one of the posts above states.

 

I hope this might help you..and BTW- you can't give the truck a full 12 volts on start up IF it's going through the ballast. I know this is a Datsun board :), but my Chevy has what is called an R terminal (or S, besides the point) that takes a FULL 12 volts when cranking, but after cranking, this wire is dead. In other words, there are TWO wires on Chevy coil. The resistance wire, and the full 12 volt wire only for starting that dies when the engine is runnning. SOO if you have a similiar wire on your Datsun truck, DO NOT run this on your ballast. If you hook up an EI, I doubt you will still even need it, as I think one of the more knowledgeable Datsun guys is suggesting.

 

Sorry for the length of all this, and all the Chevy references :) , but the principles are pretty much the same :eek: ..

[fisch]

Thanks for adding Buzz! All info on this is appreciated.

[dat521gatherer]

yes i completely understand now, my doors of perception have been cracked open slightly so i can see the light. i'll be updating my own thread on this since i got a coil today.:) thanks guys.

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Bringing this current. Fisch did you ever get the new EI all wired in? Ill be doing the matchbox swap on my 510 today & tomorrow & re-read the entire post.

[fisch]

I actually haven't tried it yet. With as little as I drove it this summer, it was working 'good enough' with the points system. Now that winter has hit, I don't imagine I will get back into it till spring.

 

It is funny how something needs to break before I'll fix it most times. But when i do, I will be prepared!!

[motavated]

I gave this up on my truck a while ago... Want to give this a try again. Fisch, did you finish it? Thanks!