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Datsun Problems?!?!


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my 76 datsun with l20 and A87 head cannon or carter intake side draft 45 dhoc weber carb that really really runs way to rich and everytime i shut it off it goes plunk plunk then tries to almost keep running or something its triippin me out and it seems to be getttin worse.

Not sure if it has anything to do with my vaccum advance not plugged into anything its just blocked up cuz my carb has no vacuum ports what so ever maybe i should try to time it so itl stop that but it just keep sdoing that.

And when your cruising with your old lady thats not the greatest thing to be hearing if you understand! any comments or tips? anyone ? 

 

And also wonderinf if a pai of 18x10 or 18x9 would fit on my datsun at stock hieghth and not rub? or would i have to pull fenders? i kinda want to anyyways .

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It's called run on or dieseling. It's what happens when the engine is hot and there is enough fuel and air to fire the cylinder simply from the heat, just like a diesel.

 

This can be from

Too fast an idle

Spark plug to high a heat range or wrong kind.

Too rich a mixture causing carbon build up. The carbon becomes glowing hot.

 

Too rich can be wrong jet size, dirty air filter, fuel pump pressure too high for the carb, floats incorrectly set.

 

Easiest thing to do, and get used to doing when shutting off the ignition, is hold brake pedal down. Lift clutch to load the engine down slightly. Turn ignition off. The load on the engine is too much for run on or dieseling to keep turning against and stalls. When completely stopped, release clutch completely. Done. A half dozen times and it becomes a natural thing to do and if you're good, not even noticeable to passengers. An automatic is easier... turn ignition off while in drive. Stall engine and then place in park.

 

 

Freebe

IMAG0120_zpsf2e233a2.jpg

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hmm well i would kinda like to get rid of the problem and my carb adjust way down i think its almost to lean but its an oversized race carb wfrom what ive read and its old as it is and the rpm sometimes its 1200 or 100 or 750 like normal i dont know its odd and ive tried adjustin the timing
i would hope to fix it not entirely rick but have a few bucks and i would just like to buy a runnin a ka24de if someone ever has one set up with 5 speed and the works on here for sale lemme know but i might just rock my l20b til it blows and a few other things...What gap exactly should my spark plugs be and ill regap them and clean them off if they have changed?

 And you say it woulud have nothing to do about the fact my vaccuum advance isnt plugged into anything? and is that gunna hurt the motor or just give me shitty gas milage?

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my 76 datsun with l20 and A87 head cannon or carter intake side draft 45 dhoc weber carb that really really runs way to rich and everytime i shut it off it goes plunk plunk then tries to almost keep running or something its triippin me out and it seems to be getttin worse.

 

hmm well i would kinda like to get rid of the problem and my carb adjust way down i think its almost to lean but its an oversized race carb wfrom what ive read and its old as it is and the rpm sometimes its 1200 or 100 or 750 like normal i dont know its odd and ive tried adjustin the timing

Well let me know which way you're going with this....

 

i would hope to fix it not entirely rick but have a few bucks and i would just like to buy a runnin a ka24de if someone ever has one set up with 5 speed and the works on here for sale lemme know but i might just rock my l20b til it blows and a few other things...What gap exactly should my spark plugs be and ill regap them and clean them off if they have changed?

 And you say it woulud have nothing to do about the fact my vaccuum advance isnt plugged into anything? and is that gunna hurt the motor or just give me shitty gas milage?

 

If you can't get or keep an L20B running then you have no idea how complex it would be to convert a 620 over to running a fuel injection KA24DE. None. Not one thing about it fits the 620, everything is custom made.

 

Ask yourself

 

 

Have I ever dome a motor swap before?

Do I have 2 to 9 months of time to devote to this including a safe secure work area preferably in a garage? Space? Driveways don't count.

Do I have $2-$3,000?

Do I have a welder and welding skills? Friends don't count, they mean well but...

Do I have fabricating skills and metal working tools...

Do I have any tools? Engine hoist?

Do I have an income from a job?

*** do I have a girlfriend?*** if so double or triple the time needed.

Can I wire an EFI motor to a vehicle that has NO wiring for this whatever?

 

The $2-3,000 is for a custom rad, hoses and clamps, custom motor mounts, custom exhaust down pipe (muffler/tail pipe optional) custom transmission mount, driveshaft shortened and balanced, wiring/fuse box etc, A high pressure EFI fuel pump, throttle cable engine and transmission oil and fuel, oil and air filters... the list is endless.

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Well let me know which way you're going with this.... If you can't get or keep an L20B running then you have no idea how complex it would be to convert a 620 over to running a fuel injection KA24DE. None. Not one thing about it fits the 620, everything is custom made.Ask yourselfHave I ever dome a motor swap before?Do I have 2 to 9 months of time to devote to this including a safe secure work area preferably in a garage? Space? Driveways don't count.Do I have $2-$3,000?Do I have a welder and welding skills? Friends don't count, they mean well but...Do I have fabricating skills and metal working tools...Do I have any tools? Engine hoist?Do I have an income from a job?*** do I have a girlfriend?*** if so double or triple the time needed.Can I wire an EFI motor to a vehicle that has NO wiring for this whatever?The $2-3,000 is for a custom rad, hoses and clamps, custom motor mounts, custom exhaust down pipe (muffler/tail pipe optional) custom transmission mount, driveshaft shortened and balanced, wiring/fuse box etc, A high pressure EFI fuel pump, throttle cable engine and transmission oil and fuel, oil and air filters... the list is endless.

Awwwww, we already talked a college kid out of buying a pretty sweet red 620... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/57536-need-noob-advice-on-buying-this-620/

 

But Datzenmike is right, fuel injected, different shaped engine is a lot of work. It's do-able for sure and you can read all about it in here but your truck will be down a while and your wallet will get pretty empty.

Add money to that 2-3k budget if you don't own all the right tools, welder a, cutters etc...

 

If you do it you should sell me your carb and intake to offset your costs ;)

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If you don't have the stuff on the list, or the skills, you'd better have lots of money or another vehicle or preferably both. If in college get a fwd honda/toyota you don't have to work on. Graduate and pay someone else to build it for you.

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the peninsula guys? who is that?and thank you  for the compliment on truck banzai510 .will an l16 set up work on this?  wasnt sure. i know more about chevys gm and fords etc,,,rebuilt motors and turned wrenches most my life but i just like askin for hints and tips since this is my first datsun and i would like to do things right instead of 5 times cuz i did it wrong the first time

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king rat why so mean? ive done probly 30 engine swaps i can rebuild and do just about anything .

.

 

Not mean, I love Datsuns so much I hate to see people with big plans that fuck up a running vehicle, run out of interest, money... whatever and scrap them. Read everything you said and see it from my perspective. There really wasn't much info just talk. If you've done 30 engine swaps then you should have said so. My comments were directed at those who post... "Going to drive it till the L20B blows up then throw an SR20DET in and go drifting, yo!"

 

 

 i do wanna put a ka24 in it but not yet i want to run this one til the rods shooot thru the sides. and anyways i fixed the dieseling problem still runs rich but owell

.

I think I see why you had to do 30 motor swaps. News for you. Only way you'll shoot rods through the sides of an L series is if you drain the water or oil out and run it with foot to the floor. If you don't respect or want the motor, sell it to someone who does. Blowing them up is plain stupid.

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.

 

Only way you'll shoot rods through the sides of an L series is if you drain the water or oil out and run it with foot to the floor. If you don't respect or want the motor, sell it to someone who does. Blowing them up is plain stupid.

Sometimes removing the oil n water doesn't work tried to get mine to quit on me after it blew the oil pan gasket out while doing 60 and spun a couple bearings so now it going to be stripped and remachined and rebuilt in the next few years to go into a 510 or another 620

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i dont wanna wreck it on purpose ive put hundreds into it replaced just about everythin besides carb and fuel pump i just meant that i wanna drive this thing as long as i can and put as many miles on it as i can well maintained miles i love my truck it makes me so happy when i take her out for a stroll. i would never do anything to hurt my datsun.

 

yea man i love datsuns to and plan on owning this thing til i die or it rots from the washington weatherr and is beyond repaiarable and even then ill  more and likely try to fix it .

 

ive never blown a motor on purpuse or accident and hope i never will. my datsun l20 never sees over 3 grand and thats the truth

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i can seee what i said may have been misleading i just wanted to know a few things about datsuns since it is my first and i didnt know about dieseling never had a motor do that before .   

 

 

since your so smart i do have a question i have replaced rubber brake lines master cylinder and shoes and wheel cylinders and hardware but i still go down to floor before it starts to slow down and my brakes are adjusted up to the max without rubbing hard core  

should i adjust foot pedl travel try bleeding them some more or what? 

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Did you 'bench bleed' the master?

Was the NLSV (Nissan load sensing valve) bled/ Or bled properly? It's inside the right frame rail under the passenger seat.

All four drums need to be adjusted. Pump brakes several times to center the shoes after adjusting and adjust more if needed.

When bleeding a cylinder pump brake several times and hold down while the bleeder is opened, then close bleeder and raise pedal. Repeat.

Generally bleed from the rear towards the front.

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so i have an important question my datto is a 76 and ive got headers and my distrubutor vaccum advance is not plugged into anything cuz my carb had=s no vacuum ports but my manifold does is my distrubutor pportedd or what? can i plug it into my manifold or will it will advanced all the time? what should i do i no my gas milage is suffering severely

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i just was able to read his and your posting and thanks to both of yuh and my truck has more attitude than me : p its just the way i write and type wit h my dead zone i have to make a message as fast as i can and half the time dont have the time to proof read it, when we first moved here out in the boonies they showed us a map and a big red circle with the dead zone and we were smack dabb in the middle but i APPRECIATE EVERY BIT OF INFO AND TIPS OR KNOWLEDGE YOU FELLOW RATSUN GUYS CAN OFFER ME I HOPE MY MESSAGES AND POSTS DO NOT OFFEND ANY OF YOU I HAVE THE BEST OF INTENTIONS AND ONLY GIVE YOU GUYS PROPS TO ALL OF YOUR SWEET RIDES AND THE WORK YOU HAVE  PUT INTO THEM AND THE HINTS TO MAKE MINE RUN BETTER...SO AGAIN I THANK ALL OF YOU!

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