Wesglock Posted August 29, 2013 Report Share Posted August 29, 2013 Thoughts on going SR20DET or SR20VE VVL? I'm seriously thinking about going All Motor. Less headaches with room and intercooler stuff, etc.. If money was no object, which would you choose and why? Mazworx 2.3L N/A Longblock (VE) with VVL OR Mazworx Street Series Stage 1.1 SR20DET/VE OR Some crazy combo of the two Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted August 29, 2013 Report Share Posted August 29, 2013 boost.... always go with boost. You will never get the same grin from anything else 2 Quote Link to comment
510T Posted August 29, 2013 Report Share Posted August 29, 2013 First choice: VET Second choice: DET Third choice: VE It's not really that hard to fit turbo bits in a 510, and E_A is right on the money! Quote Link to comment
yellowdatsun Posted August 29, 2013 Report Share Posted August 29, 2013 The SR20DET has been SOOOO overdone, do somehting different. Go with the all motor SR20VE with the 2.3 block. Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 L20 ftw! LZ22 FTW!!! :rofl: Quote Link to comment
Boom death Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 13b rotary powa!!! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Big bore 2.3 Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Any answer to this question will be based on that individual's subjective opinion. IMHO With engine swaps, different for different sake is a fools errand. The real question is "what do you want when it's all said and done?" In all reality this is comparing apples and oranges, because the outcome would literally be two totally different cars, or trucks for all we know. In a light car like a 510 the 10k rpm 260hp Maz VE would be serious fun. That is until someone blows by you with a boosted car. However, if you think the N/A VE motor will be "less headache" you're in for a rude awakening. This is one high strung little monkey that needs top quality bananas and lot of attention if you want to keep it from getting pissed off and biting you in the ass. All that aside, if money were on object a stroked 2.3L DET with a LINK G4 stand alone ECU and a good dyno tune would give you a sweet 300hp daily driver B) and with the flick of a switch you'd have a 9 sec fire breathing dragon. :devil: No brainer 1 Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 LZ22 FTW!!! :rofl:L20 with NAPS-Z rods and pistons with an a87 peanut head and 44mm mikuni solex ftw! 1 Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 L20 with NAPS-Z rods and pistons with an a87 peanut head and 44mm mikuni solex ftw! I have webers... Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 L20 with NAPS-Z rods and pistons with an a87 peanut head and 44mm mikuni solex ftw! Classic is King, but a 160hp L20 ftw? In what race? :D Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 I bet I could take any car from 0-60 just because I have an r190 with a 5.13 LSD Quote Link to comment
Wesglock Posted August 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Thanks for the replies, all very good points. I'm concerned about the proximity of my booster/master cylinder and the turbo/down pipe if I go boosted. The only manifolds I've found in my limited search that have really forward mounted turbos are McKinney and CXRacing (not heard good things about them). Anyone have a suggestion on who makes mani that would clear my booster/master? I shutter to think how much it would cost for a custom build Full Race mani.... Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Man very nice looking engine bay. Why are you installing a B booster? If you have disc brakes you don't need it, but if you're staying with drums you wont have enough brake fir the SR power even with a booster. I don't want to shit on your parade, but you may want to reconsider the booster. Besides, a set of Willwood disks would look tits against that blue. As for the DP I'm using the McKinney log mani that has been cleaned up and port matched to my head. Also used their down pipe with V band clamp. Although I don't have a booster on my B M/C it looks like there's still room for one. As you can see, it's tight courters in that aria. The proximity of the down pipe to the brake M/C is an issue that needs to be dealt with. Some use a remote res, others instal a suspended peddle assembly putting all the break and clutch cylinders under the dash. Regardless of the MC position you'll want to do everything you can to hold down the heat under the hood. To that end I had my exhaust mani, turbine housing, and DP ceramic coated inside and out. then I built a double walled aluminum heat shield with fiber insulation between. After a hard run I can put my hand on the shield. And although there is only 3/4" between the DP and the MC res, the plastic stays cool to the touch. I even kept the stock catch can in place. There are tube manis on the market that move the turbo forward and rotate it about 5 degrees counter clockwise giving more space between the DP and MC but there are drawbacks though. It's much harder to control heat with all that thin wall pipe pretzeling around under there. Also the quicker that heat disperses into the E compartment the cooler the EGT gets before passing through the turbine. As we all know, cooler air constricts meaning less gas pressure passing throw the turbine giving less boost. Although a tube mani flows better at top end, the added run length also slows spool up and throttle response. Fine for a WFO track car, or top hp in a dyno pull, but for a quick street-able Auto-X car a log mani is ideal. And, when cleaned up, the Mckinney Log is good for upwards of 500HP. On a quick side note DO NOT BUY A MCKINNEY FRONT X_MEMBER! They suck, hands free with no reach around. Send your X-mem to Troy Ermish and have him flip it, then rase the steering pick up points like this. Quote Link to comment
Wesglock Posted August 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Paradime - I could sit and pick your brain for days! Wow, lots to think about. BTW, did you say Wilwood.. :D Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Is there a wilwood kit out there or do you have to modify to be able to use it? And how much bigger than stock are the disks? Sorry to hijack your thread Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 SWEEEET! :w00t: I think the disks on newbe's car are Ermishes coil over with Willwood big kit, yes? The exact size difference escapes me, but the four caliper set up is the night and day improvement. As far as compatibility I think the have the same bolt pattern as stock 510, but you'd have to get rims to accommodate. Ask Troy, hea a good source of info for the products he caries. Newbe, now that I think of it, your 69 X-member may already have it's pickup points razed. I know the 68 is. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 The only reason for not running a brake booster is lack of room for a turbo. Otherwise all it does is make braking easier and on race circuits, canyon carving and stop and go traffic that adds up to a lot less fatigue. If you have it keep it. Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 I don't know Mike, I've never seen one in a race car. I think the booster kills positive feedback and linear feel at the peddle. I have the same brakes on my car but with Troy's older gen coil-overs and camber plates. Those brakes are more responsive and light to the touch than my wife's 2013 mazda5. Granted, it takes a bit more pressure at speed, but my car isn't designed with comfort in mind. I guess in a duel purpose car though it's up to individual taste and driving style. Quote Link to comment
Wesglock Posted August 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 I got the brake kit from Troy but coilovers are T3 with 280zx hubs. Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Nice I might be doing my brakes while the car is apart... Quote Link to comment
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