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exhaust head stud removal. tips


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I'm confused, title says head studs, 1st sentence says exhaust head studs, 2nd asked what easy out kit? 

Do you mean the exhaust studs? Are they broken? 
To remove whole just jam 2 nuts together and spin everything out together. For broken one with a tit use vice grips. For broken flush center punch, drill and easy out using a quality brand. I use bluepoint but some home depot brands like Irwin arent too bad. 

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Ya dont use chinese garbage, get something reputable. Take your time with it, soak and heat the area and when you start to tq make sure your straight and solid. 
If you can get a pilot hole through the stud you can get oil behind too, that helps a lot. 

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Soak it in PB Blaster. That stuff is a Miracle in a can. I personally soak, put a punch on it and give it a few good hard wacks to 1, make a good center punch for the drill and 2, shock the penetrant in deeper. Get it hot and let it cool. The thermal expansion and contraction helps the penetrant dig deeper. After a day or two I drill it and it comes right out no problems. The hardest part is often having the room to work. I've pulled motors for that reason

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Soak it in PB Blaster. That stuff is a Miracle in a can. I personally soak, put a punch on it and give it a few good hard wacks to 1, make a good center punch for the drill and 2, shock the penetrant in deeper. Get it hot and let it cool. The thermal expansion and contraction helps the penetrant dig deeper. After a day or two I drill it and it comes right out no problems. The hardest part is often having the room to work. I've pulled motors for that reason

+ left handed drill bits.
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That would be some real luck lol. To snap a stud off flush but have it spin out with a left hand drill bit has never happened to me in 10 years of being a mech. I have had left hand drill bits snap though :-(. 

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Everything mentioned is great advice. Take your time, don't be in a rush.

 

And good luck, lol, they are a PITA.  The biggest problem is, being able to get the correct angle with the drill to drill them (the inner fender is in the way if you're doing them in the the rig).  The last one I did, had one of the studs broke off about 1/8" below the surface, and I actually broke a quality easy out inside that one (that really sucked). So what I did was, I welded a large nut to the top of the broken stud (through the center of the nut), and turned it out with a socket. The extra heat from welding it on, I'm sure helped as well.

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Alright thanks for the tips. 3 are broken. And who knows how many more will break.

 

Bwahaha.

 

Count on all of them breaking.

If not-lucky day.

 

Replace all of them with new when putting together.

Anti-seize is your friend.

 

When drilling pilot hole, go slow and easy. Plenty of lube.

I drill the smallest hole I can-and stay perfectly centered.

 

GL. I hate doing VG30/VG33 manifolds.

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I am thread pitch is 8x1.25 from what ive found. Im going to replace them all with grade 8 studs since i dont think there is a higher grade.

Yeah i have plenty of patience. Music a beer and shade. Ill report back with the aftermath i wish this thing had a body lift would be so much easier through the wheel wells lol

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I, too, love left handed drill bits.

The timing cover bolts on an L20b... the small 10mm (4mm shank) broke off, one that goes in the block from the front. Played hell, gave up.

 

30 seconds with a leftie bit... three beer chaser.

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Is there a hole completely through?

 

Get a smaller bit. I usually drill smaller than 1/8" to start.

Drill all the way through.

Spray with PB Blaster/lube of some sort so even the backside gets lubed.

Then drill all the way through with the next size.

 

If I'm confident it will come out I hammer a Torx socket into stud.

Attach ratchet. Pull.

 

Almost there.

GL.

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