WallRocket Posted July 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2013 Hopefully he can save me the trouble. I need custom uca. Mainly due to the fact i need 7 to 8 degree front camber. Quote Link to comment
budsaipan Posted July 28, 2013 Report Share Posted July 28, 2013 Nice work. Just wondering, what are you going to do if you need to remove the cab one of these days? Quote Link to comment
WallRocket Posted July 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2013 Nice work. Just wondering, what are you going to do if you need to remove the cab one of these days? If I have to remove it. I better get out my cut off wheel. =) If I have to remove the cab..i am pretty sure I would be needing a cut off wheel anyway. So no big deal. Quote Link to comment
WallRocket Posted July 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2013 Oh snap. My coil overs came in! Expect low..low things... 2 Quote Link to comment
WallRocket Posted July 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2013 Nice work. Just wondering, what are you going to do if you need to remove the cab one of these days? Wait tell you see the cage this thing is getting. You are going to flip nuts. Quote Link to comment
budsaipan Posted July 29, 2013 Report Share Posted July 29, 2013 Wait tell you see the cage this thing is getting. You are going to flip nuts. I'm flipping nuts already. :thumbup: :rofl: Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted July 29, 2013 Report Share Posted July 29, 2013 LOVE THE BUILD!! Quote Link to comment
WallRocket Posted August 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2013 Ok, i just got done over hauling the sr. Putting it in today Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted August 29, 2013 Report Share Posted August 29, 2013 Don't forget to take pics :D Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted August 29, 2013 Report Share Posted August 29, 2013 patiently waiting.... Quote Link to comment
WallRocket Posted August 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Took turbo off. Got it off the stand Primed the oil pump Quote Link to comment
WallRocket Posted August 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Haha, i am teasing. :-) i am painting the engine bay as well. Quote Link to comment
WallRocket Posted September 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 I am having issues with the test fit. I cant get it back all the way. Updates soon. See the alternator is removed due to the fact its hitting the (idler?). Hmmph Quote Link to comment
WallRocket Posted September 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 Ok, its all bolted in. I am going to do a write up, right on this post. I will keep updating it for you guys. Some reason, every write up i read was close, or mis informing.Here it is all cleaned up for you guys.Fitting the sr20det into engine bay of 79 datsun 620:-rb20det rubber engine mounts (stock or aftermarket will work)-re drill the factory front bolt whole (should be 12mm threaded hole) Drill to fit a 18mm size bolt head. -The Trans tunnel will need to be cut. From Heater core back to shifter. -You will need to cut the lip on the firewall. Then hammer it flat. (cut so it can hammer flat, do not cut it out) -Hammer out the trans tunnel-Trans Cross member: -2 peices of pipe with a bolt threw them, and a factory 4 speed trans mount. Drill 2 holes into the factory trans mount. Done. Alternator issues:-I needed to trim the idler arms head. I just cut it in a angle of the alternator. Alternator Housing -Cut the alternator hosing. Its all trim to fit type deal here. Dont forget.. -Now, you will have to run a smaller alternator belt Steering issues: Tie rod center bar: - IF YOU MOUNTED THE WAY I MOUNTED MY MOUNTS YOU WILL NEED TO DO NOTHING TO THE TIE ROD BARS! As you can see, it is close, but no touch. Turbo Issues: Updating soon External 38mm Mod: -I used a aftermarket wastegate 38mm external, 2in pipe, 38mm wg flange, 2 1/18 hole saw, and a OEM factory manfiold. -Cut a 2 1/8 hole into the manifold with a hole saw. (I used 2 of them) -Place a 2in pipe into the 2 1/8 hole. You will notice it is MUCH bigger. You cut a larger hole so you get more exhaust gases, so you don't have any boost issues. -Cut down the end of the pipe multiple times to "pie", or "flare" it to fit into the 2 1/8 hole in the manifold. -Place into hole on manifold BRAZE it in. (weld you're flares) Driveshaft: -I used the FACTORY 4 Speed driveshaft. (If you mount the way I mounted) -Cut off the dust cover, and install. Coolent Issues: Update soon Wirring The sr20det into your 79 Datsun 620: Sr20DET Lower harness. 1. Remove the wires that connect to the alternator on the sr20det engine. Here is some pictures that will help what they look like. -2x White Solid White (big) goes to the starter (+) termanal. This wire charges the system. -White red strip goes to ignition switched (+) This wire turns on the alternator. -Black (Big) Goes from alternator (-) to chassis (-) anywhere fit. This wire grounds the system. -Black white strip (big) Goes to ignition switch Start signal, use the pigtail, and run your own wire. This wire is the starter cranking wire. Here is some pictures that should help i.d. the wires needed for the charging system. Remove the rest of the harness as it is not required to have. DO keep it if, you plan to wire in speedo. Quote Link to comment
GRpufnstuf Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 Alternator... There is a kit to mount a Subaru justy Alt on the SR engines for this kind of clearance problem.I think it's made for swaps into roadsters but might help you or others. I'm pretty sure it got used on the SR swapped 620 I am obsessing over from Project Car Mag. Great write up on that build if you'd like to see one finished.http://spriso.com/content/products/alternator-mount-kits/I haven't used it but I've read many positive reviewsGreat build! Quote Link to comment
WallRocket Posted September 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 Ok, I updated my turbo problems. Simple. Grind down the housing of the turbo slightly. ...THEN Delete the oem Wastegate. Then I got a 38mm Tial wastegate. Cut hole into oem manifold. I cut a 2 1/8th hole for flow reasons. Then Brazed it in. Quote Link to comment
WallRocket Posted September 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 I will finish up the dump pipe and flange after I get the parts in the mail. =( Oh well. Updates soon! -I hope to have the turbo and coolant lines installed tomorrow. (I need to get done so I can paint) Quote Link to comment
mikeanike99 Posted September 5, 2013 Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 What size tires do you have on the rims? Quote Link to comment
WallRocket Posted September 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 225-60-15 (fronts rub, and had to trim some) Quote Link to comment
WallRocket Posted September 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 Hey i have some wonderful news everyone will love to hear. I used my factory 4 speed driveshaft. I did not have to modify my tie rods at all... "made" my trans mount out of 2 peaces of pipe. Quote Link to comment
WallRocket Posted September 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 Its almost time to paint the engine bay. =) Quote Link to comment
WallRocket Posted September 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 I will give you one hint to figure out what happens next. Quote Link to comment
mikeanike99 Posted September 6, 2013 Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 Paint! Quote Link to comment
WallRocket Posted September 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 haha, Yep. Painting it right now. Just laid the clear. Quote Link to comment
WallRocket Posted September 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 Took it all apart again. I ran my brake lines how I want them (routed a little cleaner) Pretty much refinishing everything before I put it all back in the engine bay. Fresh under coat for the frame, and steering shaft. Refinishing the brake booster, master cylinder, and clutch master cylinder. Then i will paint the valve cover to match the engine bay. Tape off. base 1 base 2 Clear! Quote Link to comment
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