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Mid-Atlantic rust collection


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I got some painting done on the underside of the floors this weekend.

Laid down some of this self etching primer I got at an autobody supply store, stuff isn't cheap. Works great though

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Then I went over all the seams with some sealant. ( I don't know if transtar is any good, but it worked fine for me) Seam sealer is kinda hard to work with because it's so tacky it wants to stick to anything you try to use to spread it into the seam. You end up with a bunch of "drips" from where it stuck to whatever you were using. Looks really ugly, but I figure it's still gonna do its job

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I didn't really know what I wanted as far as undercoating, so I just told the guy at the supply store I wanted undercoating and this is what I got. Only thing I am slightly concerned with is that its rubberized and might melt near my exhaust. Maybe it won't get hot enough, idk.

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I'm fairly happy with the end result, although I only had two cans of the undercoating. I may grab another can or two just to make sure I have a good amount of protection. With drying times between coats I got antsy sitting around so I decided to cut out the some of the hood supports. I had seen another build on here do something similar and since a chuck of the front support had already been cut and the rest of it was worthless rust I just went to town.

Here's how it looked when I started, notice the missing portion where the hood latch normally is :confused:  seems some had cut it out already

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I decided to leave the rail closest to the windshield so I could still mount the hinges.

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^Weight reduction=faster car right? :rofl:

Took a wire wheel to it

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then today I put some "clean metal primer" from Rustoleum on it. now all I need to do is find a yellow paint that's close enough to a match and come in aerosol.

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This week I got the interior floors primed and seam sealed.

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Also got around to making a new driver's seat rail since the stock one had rusted along with the floor.

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Drilled new holes in the floor and did a quick mock up seems to fit the bill

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Got this in the mail to finally finish up my intake

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Also got most of my coolant lines run and rad mounted. Went with a cheap OEM replacement for a VW Scirocco, it's pretty small but it should do the job for now. As per a recommendation from a friend I ordered a swirl/breather tank, this ones from Powered by Maxx and it's really nice.

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Did a test of two different yellows I found at the paint store. The one on the right seems to be the closer match

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Depending on the weather I'm going to try to get the fuel lines ran and fuel pump installed tomorrow. Hopefully I can get some painting done in the interior this weekend as well. I'm thinking of going over the floors with a few more coats of primer and then laying down some yellow, possibly followed by a enamel clear coat for durability.

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Looks good man,props to you i got a KA in a 521 that i bought that way but the VW radiator is not cutting it,trucks runs a little hot some times it climbs to 210.Pulling it out first chance i get and swapping it with a champajunk radiator i mean champion.my bad lol

Yeah, I was afraid of that. Are you running a clutch fan or an electric one? I'm hoping it should do for the time being though, and it was only like 65 bucks so I'm not too mad about it. I was looking at one on summit that was sized right and all aluminum. $200 isn't bad either, but for now the VW will have to work. If it runs too hot I'll just bump the hood up with some washers.lol

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-2-28185-x/overview/

 

I got the hard line ran for the fuel, but I still need to do the easy stuff at the ends, mount the pump, and a filter.

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I did get some more painting done in the interior too. Laid down some more primer/filler to try and "smooth" out the floors.

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Also got to lay some "Flat Oatland Daisy" which is a surprisingly close match to the faded yellow that covers most of the car.

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Might put a few more coats of the yellow on, but I think I may be ready to start some interior reassembly this week. I haven't decided if I want to put the carpet back in or just the floor mats. I have to see what it look like without out carpet. 

 

 And as previously mentioned today is the first day of fall meaning my "summer" driveway build has outlived its title, so I guess I'll change it.

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My vote is always for carpet.

 

It just feels nicer to drive around. I am doing a layer of full sound deadening mat and carpet on top of that.

I have carpet that one of the previous owners had gotten cut to fit so I can easily just throw it in to see how it looks.I also have the factory floor mats that are pretty rad as well. Still haven't really made any decisions on the idea of sound deadening. What did you use? I'm completely against the idea of the adhesive sound deadening since I had to remove it when I bought the car and it was really annoying.

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Don't know how I had missed this thread up until now but as the guy that found this car in a Garage in VA (and named it Little Miss Sunshine), I am glad to see it finally getting the love it deserves.  You are doing an amazing job of saving her. Nice writeups and pics too.

 

I will be watching to follow the progress. 

 

If you need any parts, let me know. I have been hoarding parts for years.

 

Also, I hope you plan on attending the 18th Annual East Coast Datsun 510 Meet(SPEC510) next spring. Would love to meet you and see this car there.

 

More info on the east coast meet is updated on our site. www.eastcoastdatsun510.com

 

Keep up the good work.

 

David

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HELLLLL NO, not on a 510, unless its really gonna be a restoration. I mean If your doing a family car like me that you know your going to travel in, then by all means, DynaMat that shit up. But for a 510 daily, semi racer type car, no butyl mat.

 

I used this stuff that is like the original fabric fiber sound mat that is under the carpet. It was about $13 a yard, but the roll is like 7' long.

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Don't know how I had missed this thread up until now but as the guy that found this car in a Garage in VA (and named it Little Miss Sunshine), I am glad to see it finally getting the love it deserves.  You are doing an amazing job of saving her. Nice writeups and pics too.

 

I will be watching to follow the progress. 

 

If you need any parts, let me know. I have been hoarding parts for years.

 

Also, I hope you plan on attending the 18th Annual East Coast Datsun 510 Meet(SPEC510) next spring. Would love to meet you and see this car there.

 

More info on the east coast meet is updated on our site. www.eastcoastdatsun510.com

 

Keep up the good work.

 

David

I will definitely try to make that meet, that sounds awesome. I'll keep that in mind next time I'm looking for parts. you're from Maryland right? Thanks man

 

HELLLLL NO, not on a 510, unless its really gonna be a restoration. I mean If your doing a family car like me that you know your going to travel in, then by all means, DynaMat that shit up. But for a 510 daily, semi racer type car, no butyl mat.

 

I used this stuff that is like the original fabric fiber sound mat that is under the carpet. It was about $13 a yard, but the roll is like 7' long.

Where did you get that from? I found some sound deadening foam mat/pad stuff on amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-RKCP12-RoadKill-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B001TH8OC4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2497MAS6150A8&coliid=I2HQZEG109NS3R

 

here's a quick pic of how it sits after I threw the seats and floor mats in

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I kinda don't hate the look of it

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not much to report this week, last weekend I didn't get anything done since I went to H20 International in Ocean City, MD.Had a great time, best weather I have ever seen at the show(I've gone 5 years and it has rained and least once every year)Also Saw this slammed wagon, Anybody recognize it?

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It was crazy low(and still leaf springs in the rear)

 

Today I put the grill and headlights back in. Decided to strip the black off of them first, beat chrome still looks better than flat black to me.

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IMG_9199_zps6d837fd9.jpgAlso got some more body wiring hooked up and figured out with the help of a buddy. So far the only thing that works are my low beams...still trying to figure out where the disconnect is for everything else.lol (check out the custom battery relocation) :rofl: I also put my doors back on, but forgot to get a picture of it looking like car. On a related note if you ever think you can hang car doors by yourself, you might want to ask for help. 2/10 would not recommend.

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Cool looking slammed wagon. What state were the tags from?

 

I am going to the Endless Summer Car Show in OC next weekend. 

 

Great progress on Little Miss Sunshine. She deserves the love. 

 

Keep the updates coming.

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hurdles or not this week had little progress.lol. Got around to mounting my fuel pump and finishing off the fuel lines so that's out of the way, all that's left to do is wire up the pump.

This seemed like a good enough spot, plenty lower than the tank and really easy to get to

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Also decided to put the exhaust back together. I had a broken stud in the head from the previous owner. First time ever using an extractor bit, luckily it went smooth.

Drilled out the stud with a 1/4 inch bit

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put the left hand thread extractor bit in there and reversed it out easy as pie.

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put the new stud in and on with the header

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I noticed the flange for the down pipe was also missing a stud so I put a new one in there as well

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If you're wondering why it looks like the new stud isn't threaded in the whole way, it's because the new stud had more threads than the manifold. So it bottomed out before it looked like it should have. I'm planning to upgrade the header to something steel instead of the bulky cast one from stock. Any pointers? As for as I have read on the forums and such most of the 4-1 headers work fairly easy, and some of the 4-2-1 work as long as you can get it to clear the steering box. I'll probably order a 4-2-1 off egay since most people say they get "more" power out of those and a better sound.

Since I forgot last week here a picture of the car with door on.(also 13's in the rear.lol 14's up front)

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I also just realized I forgot to get a picture of the exhaust manifold on. I was wondering, do most people to plug the o2 sensor facing the steer box? there's no way an oxygen sensor would fit in there anyway and I'm pretty sure you only need one.

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The one facing the steering is the oem spot for the o2. Buy a 18x1.5 oil drain plug from Advance. Done. Install o2 in the bung not aimed at the steering. Or don't run one. KA's run fine without. Great work on the fuel pump!

Did you put two new gaskets on the manifold to downpipe connection?

Yes, got those "ring-type" gaskets for the down pipe. Sounds good with the drain plug. You want to trade some labor? I'll come up after work to help with the truck, just text me during the day you want me to come up. Then hopefully you can come down and help me sort out some wiring stuff and possibly start the motor.( The motor is still somewhat of a mystery anyways, would be nice to hear it run) also I've been lacking motivation and energy to get things done lately.

 

I feel like if I don't post any pics I have't done anything so..here what little I did yesterday/this week.

Replaced the slave cylinder

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The bleeder and feed outlets are switched on the new one (not an issue I just noticed it)

Worked on my attempt at a handbrake

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Handle is from the 280zx my buddy had parted out

Here is the sleeve I ran. I accidentally cut through the actual cable when shortening the sleeve so I need to buy a replacement. 

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hopefully I can make it work. Biggest thing on my current list is the steering center link..it doesn't clear the way I have my motor/trans mounted. I'm not too keen on waiting 4-6 weeks to send it out to Australia to have it flip so I may look for a shop locally willing to take on the task. Also if someone has a flipped center link for a SR/KA swap they don't need I will gladly take it off your hands

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  • 3 weeks later...

Spoiler: IT RUNS!!!!! Kyle wanted to hear it run prior to total reassembly, so we busted ass today (in the 30* weather) to get the engine wired/rigged and after a quick fill up of the fuel tank, she fired right off and settled into a nice idle. Found a few vacuum/fuel/coolant leaks as to be expected, fixed those, and just let it run for a while.

 

Now there's a heck of a lot of motivation to button her up and get it drivable. I'm so stoked for him, as it's been a long haul thus far. I wish my z was even close to this point, but that's another story.

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Looks like you'll have plenty of time to get it ready for the trip to Canby :)

When is that? I would love to, but maybe not this year.

 

Sweet. So cool when you get them to run. 

 

Keep the updates coming.

Stock gas tank held gas when we filled it, but after it sat over night the high octane must have went through the apparent last layer of rust and started leaking. So now I'm waiting for some fitting and mounts to use a plastic tank from a buddy. I'll try to go through some pics I have to get a real update when I get it on the ground and hopefully moving.

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12 gallon cell from ThreeAndAHalfLiterZ

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Couldn't figure out an easy way to mount it in the trunk and since the spare tire well was full of rust holes

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I Just cut the whole thing out and am planning to put new metal in flat to help with mounting.

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It's getting cooler here in the north atlantic, really wishing I had access to a garage right about now. 28 degree high with a decent wind chill makes any work annoying. Looking to get a some metal early this week. thinking maybe a 1/3 of a sheet(40"x48") will be enough. Also thinking about relocating the gas filler door to make routing a neck easier. I figure just cut two holes and swap the pieces, we'll see though.

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