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F10 Clutch problems


Scq4247

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I have 77 F10 and I am having clutch issues. It just eats clutches they last maybe 5000 to 10000 miles and when I take it out it looks fine. Someone told me its the pilot bushing that's causing it to fail so fast. Which would make sense because my uncle threw the new pilot bushing away. Does anyone know if this could be the problem or not. Now I have taken it apart several times and I can't even figure out where the pilot bushing goes. I have looked at f10 repair manuals and they don't even mention the pilot bushing. Any help would be greatly appreciated thank you.

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pilot bushing has nothing to do with clutch wear.

 

The input shaft rides on the pilot bushing. When its bad it will cause a squeel.  F10 has an A engine right ?? pilot bushing is located in front of the flywheel, in the end of the crank shaft.

 

 

I'm guessing the clutch pad is what is going.  Um, maybe you shouldn't slip the clutch so much. :sneaky:  

 

 

Is the flywheel new, or has been resurfaced?

 

 

Clutch adjustment, master or slave cylinder, clutch is probably not fully disengaging causing premature wear. 

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I have 77 F10 and I am having clutch issues. It just eats clutches they last maybe 5000 to 10000 miles and when I take it out it looks fine. Someone told me its the pilot bushing that's causing it to fail so fast. Which would make sense because my uncle threw the new pilot bushing away. Does anyone know if this could be the problem or not. Now I have taken it apart several times and I can't even figure out where the pilot bushing goes. I have looked at f10 repair manuals and they don't even mention the pilot bushing. Any help would be greatly appreciated thank you.

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Well what's your definition of "eats clutches" if when you take them apart it looks fine? What are the symptoms?  Are you perhaps changing only the clutch disc? If so perhaps the pressure plate is worn out and not gripping the disc properly. They should be changed as a unit. Are you replacing the release bearing as well?

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Its not because I am slipping the clutch I have always had a stick have driven semi for the last 15 years and I have never had issues like this with any vehicle. I just don't know what it could be they are all brand new parts. I have gone through 2 brand new clutches now in less than 15000 miles. I mean yeah it is the easiest vehicle ever made for changing the clutch out I can have the old one out and new one in under an hour. But that's not the point something's not right. I have looked all over the Internet trying to figure it out and I ran across this site thought I would post my question as a last resort before I get rid of the thing.

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The symptoms are when I put the new one it works great for a while but it just keeps getting worse and worse until it slipping all the.i am by no means a mechanic but to me when I went to replace the last two clutches they didn't look bad at all to me they aren't worn down its not glazed over doesn't look much different from when I put it in. Like I said works great for a while and just gets progressively worse until it won't even move.

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Did you have the flywheel machined?  It may not be flat.

 

Also, last I knew the clutch linkage was adjustable at the pedal.  Could be too tight (should have at least a 1/4 inch slop).  Too tight would wear out throwout bearings, but also overheat the fingers on the pressure plate,  That in turn overheats the plate, makes the pressure plate no longer grip, which makes it slip, causing more heat, and a cascade effect.

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Have you replaced either the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder? Could be a problem there, and they aren't very expensive parts. Easy to change.

 

I just grabbed my '77 F10 factory service manual and found a bit of genuine F10 weirdness. It says "When clutch cover, pressure plate and disc are replaced or when any parts of the clutch release mechanism are replaced, be sure to select and install push rod of the correct length." It goes on to say there are three different length push rods available and the proper length must be used. I have no idea if wrong length push rod could cause premature clutch failure, but is seems possible. I don't know if Nissan can still get the different length rods if yours is out of spec.  The parts guys at Jaremko Nissan are really good about trying to find Datsun parts. They haven't laughed at me yet. When my wife gets home from work, I'll have her scan the page in the FSM and post it. There is a diagram of where to measure that you should see, rather than me trying to explain it.

 

So F10s don't just look weird, there are some strange things going on beneath the hood too. Anyone know if Nissan continued this different length pushrod idea with the 310? Just curious.

 

Len

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Yes, a wrong length rod (specifically, one too long) would cause the throwout bearing to "ride" the clutch, causing the abovementioned heat.  You'd think you'd see a glazed clutch and heat discoloration on the pressure plate though.

 

The way to know is the pushrod should be slightly loose when the pedal isn't pushed.  If it's solid, it's causing the throwout bearing to ride the clutch.

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The push rod mentioned is not the one on the slave nor is it the one on the clutch pedal. There are three different length 'rods' 115.15mm, 114.09mm and 113.03mm that are inside the bellhousing. My drawing does not clearly show how or what it does. It appears that the spline on the mainshaft is on one side of the clutch disc. The other side is the diaphragm with the push rod. I 'think' the release bearing bears against this push rod rather than against the diaphragm directly. The push rod transmits the movement to the diaphragm. I could be wrong but the F10 definitely has a different clutch. I remember changing one back in the 70s but  little else. (it was the 70s duh)

 

Look it up...

30430-M0102 for the 115.15mm one.

30430-M0103 for the 114.09mm one.

30430-M0104 for the 113.03mm one.

 

Perhaps the FSM shows what needs to be measured in order to select the correct one???

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Yeah, guilty as charged of F10 ownership. Pics of my little gem here, post #14:

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/35712-just-bought-a-1978-datsun-f10-sw/

 

Another F10 thread on Ratsun:

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/44788-f-10-fugly-no-love-till-now/

 

Looking through those threads should inspire you to keep yours in spite of the problem clutch. Do you have the wagon or the humpback like mine? Post pics if you can.

 

My wife should be able to scan the FSM page sometime tonight, although I may not get it posted until tomorrow. In theory, I could scan it myself, but it would take me 1 1/2 hours to do what she can do in 5 minutes. Example - This afternoon, I tried to post a couple of pics of the bodywork progress on my 510. I even got as far as the pics showing up in the Post Preview, but with an error message at the top of the Preview page saying it wouldn't support the file extension or something like that. I think my extension was .pg and my wife thought maybe it needed to be jpeg. So I gave up and will try again tomorrow if I'm rained out at work.

 

Len

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Mine is the hatchback my great uncle bought it brand new and when he died my uncle got and now I have it. It's only has 110,000 miles on it. But what surprised me was the blue book value of them low book was $1900.00 and high book was $3900.00. Good luck trying to get that but that's what it said. I thought I had the only F10 in Spokane.

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I don't know a whole lot about different clutch manufacturers but is there quite a bit of difference in the quality. And could this be the problem because honestly when I replaced it I was broke as hell and got the cheapest damn one that I could get. I have just see. A lot of threads talking about the quality of different clutch manufacturers.

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I got an ExedyOEM clutch kit recently and in comparison to other 100 dollar clutches I've purchased in the past it seems solid. 

 

http://www.exedyusa.com/oe/car_make_search.php?ymm_year=1977&ymm_make=NISSAN&ymm_model=F10&ymm_liter=1.4L

 

Looks like you can get the kit through Napa, carquest etc...

 

http://www.exedyusa.com/oe/dealers

 

Rock Auto has a beck arnley kit for 45. (wholesale closeout - 30 day warranty)

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Lets see the GTiR is what about 225hp and the plate under my hood says 80hp that would be a good upgrade.

Indeed and the F10 is the direct ancestor of the GTiR. Mmmm here is what you need, the front and rear of a AWD GTiR. They come up more often than you'd think. Lets see pics of this thing!

 

http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/3745262881.html

 

I started a hypothetical thread about this a while ago which you've probably stumbled upon by now. But here it is if you haven't!

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/38185-ultimate-datsun-f-10-the-f10-r-hypothetical/

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It will be this evening before I get the clutch scan up. My wife got it scanned as a pdf, but needs to get it up on a host site and maybe convert it to a different file type. I didn't explain to her it was for viewing on Ratsun, and needs to be hosted somewhere. If I get rained out and get home early, I'll try to get it up on my Flickr account, and then post. I certainly need the practice doing this sort of thing.

 

Len

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