F10 Clutch problems

[Scq4247]

I guess I have to do it from a computer and not my phone.

[Scq4247]

file://localhost/Users/Kathryn/Desktop/GetAttachment.aspx.jpeg

Here is a picture not sure if it worked.

[Scq4247]

%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a557/scq4247/image_zps7d2833d4.jpg

[datzenmike]

[Scq4247]

Finally figured out how to post pics. 

[LenRobertson]

I used to know how to post pics here, but maybe haven't done so since The Big Change in December or whenever it was. So here is a test pic:

 

 

 

Scq4247 - If you are in a hurry to see the F10 clutch page, send me a Personal Message here on Ratsun with your email address and I'll send the pdf file as an attachment. I'll get it posted here eventually, but need my wife's help (okay, I need her to do it), but it won't happen tonight.

 

Oh, and I'm out here in the wilds of Lincoln County, 50 miles from Spokane. So you are the F10 King of Spokane, as far as I know. I've never seen an F10 in Spokane, except at Pull n Save. Never seen one moving under it's own power.  And your F10 is the same color as mine, only I think yours is a lot shinier. And I hope not as rusty as mine.

 

Len

 

[athoose]

Man, you gotta keep that thing goin'.  GTiR or not.  Sweet ride!

 

Looks like those hatches like to retain water.  I remembered Len"s had the same rust.  Thought it was his when I first saw the pic.

[LenRobertson]

Looks like my pic showed up in my last post, so I won't have to spend all day tomorrow trying to figure out pic posting. If I don't go to Pull n Save (or mow the lawn, what I really should do), I'll try to get some work done on the F10. My 510 is in the hands of my body man, so the F10 is next in line. I need to fix the throttle cable and break the bead on one tire and reseal it. Maybe break loose that one sticky front brake again. Then I might chance a road test to see if I'm still have the fuel starving problem. There is a guy from Portland interested in buying my F10, but he seems to want to drive it back, not trailer it. He has a lot more nerve than me, or less imagination. I always assume disaster is over the next hill, waiting to strike.

 

Scq4247 - There is a Datsun 310 at the Valley Pull n Save. I think some part interchange with the F10, cooling fans and other mechanical pieces.

 

 

Len

[Scq4247]

Yeah my great uncle bought it brand new and it was garaged up until 2006 when he died we pulled it out of the garage and it only had like 75000 miles ont it then my uncle drove it up until about 6 months ago when I got it. The more I thought about that clutch pushrods the more I think that's probably the issue. I spent a couple hours looking for someone online that Carey's them and I don't think anyone on the planet carries them. Lol.

[LenRobertson]

Here is a link to the FSM page on F10 weird clutch rod measurement:

 

http://www.robertsonartsandmore.com/DatsunF10-Clutch-page.pdf

 

I wonder if the rod could be "adjusted" by grinding or a touch of weld on one end. Maybe the rod is heat treated and the heat would soften it. Nissan may be sitting on a pile of these rods for all I know. I've gotten a few small pieces for the 510 at Jaremko Nissan and the prices always seem reasonable to me.

 

"...I don't think anyone on the planet carries them. Lol" I don't think anyone on the planet even knows about them! Except us here on Ratsun. :P

 

 

Len

 

[datzenmike]

You could remove one to get diameter and have one made to length.

[Scq4247]

I think both of you guys are reading my thoughts.

[LenRobertson]

On my F10, I have a little (maybe 1/32" or less) freeplay between the rod coming out of the clutch slave cylinder and the recess in the clutch fork. In other words, I can rock the clutch fork in and out a little bit. I imagine if the rod inside the clutch is too long, there is no freeplay, and as datsunaholic said, the release bearing never fully releases, heats up the cover plate fingers, and it only gets worse from there. Unless you have taken apart your clutch already, see if you have any play at the slave cylinder.

 

Len

[Scq4247]

Ok I am gonna go out and see what I can find now with what we have discussed if it is the push rod that is causing this to happen that means that I would need a shorter push correct.

[LenRobertson]

That is my working theory for now, that the push rod is too long and you don't have any freeplay. What I don't know is if your clutch has gone bad again, somehow it has developed some freeplay it didn't have when it was newly installed. For instance, due to lack of freeplay, the pressure plate fingers got hot and warped slightly. But let us know what you find. When you put in a new clutch, and don't have freeplay, then you will be more certain the rod is too long.

 

Looking at my F10 this morning, it looks like there is a stamped steel access cover above the clutch. I don't know if you can remove this and be able  to see the fingers on the pressure plate. I'm guessing the fingers may show discoloration from getting hot.

 

And it is possible the pushrod length isn't the problem. It just sounds most likely.

 

Len

 

[datzenmike]

I don't think there are diaphragm 'fingers'.  it looks like a flexible plate. It's just weird.

[Scq4247]

Yeah there is absolutely no freeplay on the slave cylinder push rod at all.

[Scq4247]

That's the thing about the f10 clutch it isn't like a normal clutch with a bunch of fingers there are 3 rectangle pieces of what I would think is spring steel I don't know the clutch is just about as odd as the car is. It's hard to explain I will post a picture as soon as I get a moment.

[LenRobertson]

Yeah, why did I think the F10 clutch would be anything like a normal clutch? I'm looking at the drawing in the factory manual right now. Yikes! I need to read the text and try to puzzle out how it works (if my mind can grasp it). Somehow I'm thinking this clutch might be more likely to go bad due to lack of freeplay. The "Diaphragm spring" looks like something that would lose spring temper if it is dragging. But that is just a guess. Eventually I may be able to post a scan of the drawing, but maybe someone else will post it first. I'm really curious what the clutch in a 310 is like. I'll have to do a search for info.

 

Len

[Scq4247]

Yeah just by the looks of the clutch I have thought the same to me it looks like a crap design that would really prone to losing its clamping pressure but I just don't know for sure. I have it all torn apart little bit nervous about shortening that push rod since I haven't found a replacement anywhere if I screw it up. My luck I will shorten it to much and really be screwed.

[LenRobertson]

It looks here:http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1209899,parttype,1993

like the 1980 310 uses a similar weird clutch; possibly exactly the same. Valley Pull n Save has a 1980 310. If the clutch rod isn't too hard to remove, you might go grab that one as a spare.  The rest of the clutch might even be useable, and way cheaper than a new clutch kit. That P&S 310 may be an auto. I looked at it, but don't remember what tranny is in it.

 

Len

[Scq4247]

Well you guys were a lot of help because the push rod was the problem the whole time and I never would have thought of that. Thank you works great now in fact the clutch that is in it is one that I thought was junk a long time ago.

[LenRobertson]

So did you grind a little off the push rod?

 

Len

[Scq4247]

Yeah might have to take a little more off still isn't any free play but its not all bound up I just didn't want to take off to much and be totally screwed but its works great hell I can burn'em off now. Lol.

[Scq4247]

Yeah I am pretty sure the 310 is the exact same clutch because my uncle had a 310 and he said the clutch looked identical to him.