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Throwback Lil'Hustler


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Got the sway bar figured out.. was up side down and i switched the bolt around.  Thanks heretic!  :D  I will get some new stops as that makes complete sense.  On my '73 frame the PO didn't have any stops on the front.  Never did bottom out but I rather have them as I want to go a little lower than before.  While on the stops I don't have any for the top arm...the ones that there are two a side for.  Should I invest in those also or just the bottom ones?

 

I am going to be pulling the cab off this Sunday if anyone wants to join in the action!?  Just let me know.

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Let me fist start off with saying thank you K_trip for coming over this morning and lending a hand.

 

Got a lot done today.  Been trying to finish in time for Datsloco this Saturday in Manteca but looks like I am going to be short a week.  Move it back a Saturday!   :lol:   Got the cab and bed on.  Gas tank hooked up, steering done, steering wheel shaft in, tachometer in and ready to be wired, redid the wire harness all the way back, and got all the hardlines back against the firewall.  Things to do still is finish dressing up the engine, mate with transmission, drop in, install driveline, bleed brakes/clutch, wire tachometer, wire E30 headlights, install interior.  Some other little things too I am sure.  

 

 

 

Hardlines

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First picture of body and cab on.  Torsion bars are all the way out on this one.

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Now to the steering and front suspension.  It seems like with the ball joints the fronts stick out a little more.  Here are some pictures without any shims added..

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You can see how far the top of the tire sticks out.  I added about 8mm (two 4mm washers OR shims) to both sides.  It got the tire a little more tucked up inside the front fenders.  Here is what it looks like.

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The steering linkages went on easy.  I reused on of the tie rods for the time being since I only was able to get on on sale at rockauto.  New center link and drivers tie rod installed. 

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Now onto the hardest thing yet to be done in this build...The removal of the bezel!  :frantics:   First off, F*** the lighter.  That thing is always on there.  In the process of being extra careful I still managed to break some of it.  I think it was mostly from the PO when he cut the bezel to fit the CD player in.  Was still mad but what can you do.  A picture of the damage, its not bad at all..

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Now with the factory tachometer sitting in there.  Looks soo good!  :wub:

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Well that's about how far I got today.  Here are some random pictures I have left over.

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More progress to come shortly!

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great progress looking good man. 

 

I think the barking brake configuration is different on the ball joint trucks. I know my 72' 620 is different than my 78's

 

I'd think you'd want to use the cabling from the later chassis not the 73' 

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Awesome!  I forgot to grab a picture of the hoist setup on the cab.  Glad you did.  Leaving the doors on was a smart choice.  I had been looking and thinking about how to lift the cab for a while.  First choice was to attach wood on the hoist arm and lift it from the roof of cab.  Didn't like that just in case the wood broke putting a hole in the roof.  Think this was was the best!  Right after you left it felt like the temperature rose 30 degrees, it go hot.  Thanks again and no problem about the LCAs want as much stuff to go to use.

 

Been ordering parts parts parts.  Not much left needed now.  Got my water pump this morning so going to install it.  Just a few more things and I will be dropping the engine in.  If anyone wants to join in that fun let me know and I will have a date and time on when I will be doing it.

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ONLY because my own curiosity has gotten me.

 

It looks as if the fulcrum is completely different.

 

1974 620 single cab

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This is what I need.  Looks like when I intalled the new axle I put the cable on the opposite side.  That is why I have so much slack!

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I need the clips that hold the harness to the frame.  I can't seem to find them anywhere else, think it is because I don't know their actual name, but with the part number they are $1 a piece, not bad but wanted to know if I could find them cheaper (as after shipping they will be pricey).  I need E 9 and I 16 in the picture below.

 

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Thanks Eagle_Adam

 

where did you find them? I need a whole grip of I-16's

Found them on NissanPartsZone.com  The I16 part # 24220-M1400  only cost .67 a piece plus the 10 dollar shipping.  

 

 

 

http://modesto.craigslist.org/pts/4117813154.html

Maybe you can call this guy and see if you can get some of those clips off the frame?

I have the clips on the other frame just can't take them out of the frame without breaking them (can't get to the other side).  They snap into the frame and have a hook that holds the harness to it.

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Exedy clutch kit just got here, just waiting for tomorrow to come to get the rest of my parts then I will be dropping the engine into the truck.

I am also rebuilding the brake master instead of buying a new one.  Seems to be the cheaper way and still keeps the OE brake master.  Also running into a problem with the clutch master hitting the brake vacuum.  I heard there is a smaller one that is made for the disc brake truck.

 

I am also wiring my tachometer in but was curious at to what gauge wire to use 10 or 12?

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10 gauge it is then.  That's what I read about the brake masters and figured I will give rebuilding the OE one a try.  Took it apart the cylinder wall is nice and smooth.  Just the rubbers on the springs are a little worn.

 

Pictures will be coming soon.

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Writeup will be posted soon!

 

I have been looking at my situation with this brake booster from the '79.  It is just too damn big!  I am running pathfinder dual piston brakes up front and stock drums in the back.  Will my brake booster off my '73 still work if I use my brake master off my '79?  I can't see why it wouldn't?

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