KlassicMotion Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 your bolt is in upside down flip it over & trim off the excesss thread sticking thru Alright so the threads need to be on the bottom? yup the threads are on the bottom I'm sorry, this is incorrect^^. The anti-sway bar bolt goes the way he had it in the picture. They go from the bottom up. Nissan Factory Manual: Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 His truck is a ball joint truck (now) & that FSM pic is of a kingpin truck ... two of my 620's are 78' ball joint trucks & they both have the bolt in top down as I recommended. My guess as to why would be .... the lower control arm is completely different between the two. The mounting point on a BJ A-arm is in the center on a KP truck it is to the side on a tab. I'm sorry, this is incorrect^^. The anti-sway bar bolt goes the way he had it in the picture. They go from the bottom up. Nissan Factory Manual: Quote Link to comment
K_trip Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 - removed - 1 Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 DITTO.!! you've made a ton of progress Jeff .... GREAT JOB.!! I'm glad to see you got the carb's working, and all is well :) 1 Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted November 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 Thanks guys! Took the truck to Castro Valley yesterday. Ran great over the hills, lots of power. My girlfriend moved out there so helped with the move. While out there my started died.. one of the only things I kept and didn't change... had to push start it. Other than that she has been running great. Just about due for the second oil change. I will post a video of her cruising down the road soon. Still need a wideband gauge so I can adjust the needles so I can get her running strong threw all rpms. Just little things left. As for the sway bar I have had no issues with it. Can take corners like a mad man and it sticks. *EDIT* New starter installed, cranks over like a champ :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Had the weirdest thing happen today. Was driving home from work and my truck started to overheat, not any where close to the H on the dial. Then I noticed steam coming from the engine bay. Pulled over, killed the truck, popped the hood to find coolant everywhere in the engine bay. Steam was from it hitting the headers. Couldn't tell exactly where it was coming from but looked like it could have been the radiator cap. It was all the way tight but I remember the rubber was a little worn on it. Anyways let it sit, wasn't leaking. Once cooled back down started it back up and nothing. So I drove it home the rest of the way and didn't do it again. Its dark so in the morning I am going to go check the hoses and what not. ALSO I JUST TURNED ON MY HEATER TODAY. Would this cause any weird symptoms? I am running a 190 thermostat. Truck was only running for 4-6 minutes before symptoms started. Any guesses what would cause this? Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 did you ever turn on your heater when you bled the cooling system of air bubbles after filling it? Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 did you ever turn on your heater when you bled the cooling system of air bubbles after filling it? :blush: Nope... makes sense! Ran the truck today after toping off coolant, didn't need much. Nothing but heater was off. Just a thought would a stuck thermostat cause this too? Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 With the heater open, try squeezing (in a pumping motion) the upper and lower radiator hoses to help any air escape. From the system. It sounds like you might have just had air in the system. Typically a stuck thermostat will cause the gauge to read "hot" too. Also, next time you install a thermostat, make sure it has an air passage hole in it. They are usually about 1/16" diameter hole with a metal valve in them. It's not always necessary, but If yours doesn't have one, you can drill your own hole. This is just to allow the air to escape into the radiator. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 The one I have in there does have the valve for the air. I will try the squeezing of the hoses. Pretty sure now it was just the heater getting all the air out of it. Totally forgot about that. Got some better return springs for the Hitachi SUs. Pedal is stiff but I like it. Might jump down a little on the tension, believe I am running some high ones at 10ft/lbs each so that 20ft/lbs together. Don't want to snap my throttle cable! Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 doubt you will snap your throttle cable but on the topic of bleeding a cooling system: A. if there is a "jiggle valve" (yes thats what its called) in your thermostat id suggest cutting the jiggling portion out and run just a small 1/16 - 1/8 hols to help bleed the air B. always have the heat turned on high then C. jack the front end of the truck up, making the top of the rad the highest point in the cooling system and run the truck for a min or two do both of those ^ and your system will be bled 1 Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 I guess the reason for cutting the pin out is it doesn't work well? I will have to open mine back up and cut it. Did just as above but i was on the driveway, will do it again with the heather all the way on high heat. I know my heater was dry before I got everything back in. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 you dont have to cut the jiggle valve out, i just dont see a point to it and dont want something loose like that inside my motor...... Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Got ya. Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 On my Small Block Ford engines, I always cut a "V" into the top edge of the thermostat for the same reason. All you need is for the air to be able to get through. On the SBF V8's the thermo sits vertically, versus the Datsun that sits horizontally... Info; just in case you ever work on a Ford. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted November 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 Drove all the way to school and no problems at all. So weird that a air buble would cause all this but whatever. Man do i love these disc brakes! Stops so good even in wet weather. Really need to get my carbs synced. Seems like i lost a little power since ive ut them on. 2 Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted November 21, 2013 Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 a hot air bubble could throw the temp sender off for sure!!!! and air expands differently than a coolant/water mix Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted December 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 Just got my alignment done. Cost 110 dollars :blink: but the guy said it took him a few hours. Needed to be started from scratch. It does ride a lot better now. Really needed it. I just really hate how much wider the stance is in the front with the swap. Tires stick out a good inch and a half on each side compared to the rear.. I need to roll my front fenders but don't need to roll my rear.. It will look so weird unless I just put some spacers on the back to even everything out? Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted December 9, 2013 Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 It's funny you say that. Not sure if its entirely the swap. I've always thought that the front of the BJ trucks were a bit wider than the rear OR its an illusion because of the shape of the nose & fenders. I've not done the brake upgrade on my green truck yet, its a 100% stock 78' BJ truck, shit I even just replaced the ORIGINAL OEM completely blown out shocks a couple of weeks ago :) .... you can count on me to measure the width before & after when I do. Quote Link to comment
Hooligan Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 I think the BJ is wider myself. On my 79', Titans, no spacers at all.... just rim to rotor, I am limited to how low I can go due to tire to fender clearance yet other can get the front to tuck with no issues Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted December 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 It seem's like on the disc and ball joint setup they have a way wider stance. I have my diff from my '73 (because its an aluminum housing) and it fits in perfect.. but the front sits out. So I think we can say the ball joint trucks have a wider stance. Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 that just may work to an advantage........ I measured my rear axle width from wheel mounting surface to surface........ 54" (+/- 0.50") If your eyeball measurement of the front is +1.5" each side, that gives a guesstimated width of 57" I also measured a Pathfinder rear disc axle width from wheel mounting surface to surface....... 57.125" (+/- 0.25") see where I'm going with this?????? Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 Just saw (and read) your thread. Great work! Keep it up. --carter Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted December 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 that just may work to an advantage........ I measured my rear axle width from wheel mounting surface to surface........ 54" (+/- 0.50") If your eyeball measurement of the front is +1.5" each side, that gives a guesstimated width of 57" I also measured a Pathfinder rear disc axle width from wheel mounting surface to surface....... 57.125" (+/- 0.25") see where I'm going with this?????? :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: Looks like you know where I am going to be at next half off at PnP! Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted December 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 Just saw (and read) your thread. Great work! Keep it up. --carter Thanks! The truck has been running great, handles good, stops good. Been enjoying it way more than before. Plus can't complain about being able to climb a hill and be able to accelerate in 5th up it.. 1 Quote Link to comment
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