Eagle_Adam Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 good write up!!! and lolz @ too many pics.... Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted October 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 After Datsloco I got into the wiring under my dash. Only one bad connection was made. Should be an easy fix. Other than that the original harness is untouched! :thumbup: Fixed the little damage I managed to do to the bezel with some super glue. Want to do something different color wise with it but just don't know what. I like the carbon fiber look and also would like door panels to match but that will have to wait as money is running tight now. There was no connections for my tachometer in the harness so looks like I will be soldering it in. Followed my live wire to here...(was for the CB radio that used to be in here) To find out it was hooked up like this... Gotta love POs. Finished getting the bezel out. Was a pain with the radio where it was. Going to fill that spot with some gauges instead. Super glue to the rescue! Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted October 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2013 Brakes are bled! Took some time but pretty sure I got all the air out. I hope this is okay...I hooked up the brake MC and started at the passenger rear tire. I pushed the fluid to the MC. Once it was coming into the reservoir I bled it from the MC. Repeat on the drivers rear. Same on the fronts. Then I did the conventional brake bleed. Pump the brakes and draw the air out. Seems to have worked well. Tachometer is wired in and bezel is back in dash. Cleaned out all my wiring under the dash. Tomorrow I will grab some pictures. Planing on putting the rattletrap mat in and finishing most of the interior and getting the clutch on the flywheel and transmission mated. Maybe drop her in too but we will see. I measured the stock steering wheel with the 240Z wood one I am putting in and seems like the Z wheel is a little shorter. What I mean is it is closer to the dash. I also have some play in the wheel.. about as much as I had in the '73 column. Is there an easy fix for this? Steering is tight as everything is new. Manual says it may just need to be aligned which I know it does. 2 Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted October 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 Picture time! Didn't get as many as I wanted too. First I matted the interior with rattle trap, like dynomat but cheaper. SHHHHHHH... don't tell the girl friend I am using her hair dryer.. :lol: Here is what the wheel looks like. Carpet and seat back in :wub: Love the factory tachometer. Brake MC is in. Went with the '73 booster. Makes soo much more room! Going to play a little game here... Can anyone tell me what is wrong with this picture. They are mated! Okay when installing the engine how does one get the oil pan by the center link???? I had to take it off to get the engine in.. but needless to say she is in. Quote Link to comment
Janksun Posted October 16, 2013 Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 Going to play a little game here... Can anyone tell me what is wrong with this picture. That metal shield thingy is not installed. Oops... But good work man! I couldn't imagine doing all that! Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted October 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 Yup, I noticed it when I took the picture. Was good practice I guess... Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted October 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 Thanks! It's been quite a journey. Feels good to know every inch of your truck though. No more hidden WTFs from previous owners. Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted October 16, 2013 Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 AND you haven't drilled & relocated your dipstick.! Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted October 16, 2013 Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 BTW great work Jeff you're really hitting this hard.... oh wait just realized something ...... you're trying to beat the rain aren't you :) Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted October 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 BTW great work Jeff you're really hitting this hard.... oh wait just realized something ...... you're trying to beat the rain aren't you :) F*** yeah! I don't want to be riding my bike in the rain to school and work. Pretty close to being done. Just need to add fluids to everything, recheck wiring and hookups. Start her up. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted October 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 Electrical problems.. :angry: I can't find this short in the wiring at all. It is driving me insane. I can't even hook up my battery without it sparking like a mofo. Do you just have a ground to the motor or also the frame? Thats not my problem as the short is in the + fusable link wire that goes to the battery terminal. I wired in the tachometer grounding the tachometer to the frame. Could the lights be messed up to where it would ground out and make the whole system short? I hate wiring and this is driving me insane! I just want to start my motor!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 are you using the 79' harness or the 73' or "worse" a combo of the two.? Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted October 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 Just the 73 harness. Somewhere in the + line there is a short to ground. It is saying my +line to battery is grounded. I looked everywhere just cant find where. Would the rear lights cause this? I hate electrical bs Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 any dead short could possibly cause this. Remove the main fuse at the firewall under your glovebox, this will isolate the power to just the engine bay. l bet you've got power to ground in the engine bay somewhere. Double check all your chassis grounds "It is saying my +line to battery is grounded" .... what is saying that.? "Would the rear lights cause this?"... unhook that circuit at the floor pan under the passengers seat if you think its suspect. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted October 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 Thanks heretic I'll do that and start the endless search for the short. It got dark on my yesterday so I couldn't keep my search going. I am using a volt meter with it on "signal" so it will beep if a circuit is complete. (believe that is the correct way of doing it as I am not too electrical inclined) Now that it is back light out the search is going to continue. I know its going to be something stupid somewhere....just got to find that somewhere! Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 "I am using a volt meter with it on "signal" so it will beep if a circuit is complete" ..... yes a multi-meter is the proper way to check for continuity. Get out your FSM or wiring diagram & take your time.. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted October 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 Figured it out! So stupid simple, took out the fuse box and still was shorting so it was in the bay. Looked at my manual and followed the color code, love unmolstered harnesses for this reason. Alternator live was missing the plastic sleeve that kept it from grounding. Was in the box still. Woot! Borowing the neighbors timing light and will be firing her up 1 Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 hahahaha right on glad you got it figured out. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted October 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2013 Ran into some more electrical problems. Turns out when I first tried to connect my battery it blew the fusible link...which when I got the wiring sorted and turned the ignition to on finished it in a blaze of smoke and a "pop". Went down to Napa and picked up some 20g fusible wire. Came in a 10ft package for $8. Cut the same length as old one, soldered in and BAM! Everything works now. Even fixed my high beam flasher on the turn signal. Old connection fell off so soldered it back on. WORKS! I also ran threw the hole wiring to make sure there was going to be no other surprises. Looks good. No I am finally ready to fire this beast up. Running video is going to be posted soon! 1 Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted October 18, 2013 Report Share Posted October 18, 2013 you have come a long way!! Be proud Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted October 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2013 you have come a long way!! Be proud Thanks! I am very nervous about the engine start up. I have not completely built an engine like this. SO I am doing a lot of second guessing and its driving me insane :frantics: I just want to start it and get it done with. For timing with a stock L20B cam should I put it around 12 BTDC? Spark plug gab is .041 with a el dizzy. The book for rebuilding an engine says just crank it over with no spark to build oil pressure. Is this safe? Quote Link to comment
Janksun Posted October 18, 2013 Report Share Posted October 18, 2013 Did you prime the oil pump? 1 Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted October 18, 2013 Report Share Posted October 18, 2013 ok....... a few things MUST be done prior to start up A - OIL PUMP MUST ALREADY HAVE OIL IN IT(THIS MUST BE DONE PRIOR TO INSTALL) - sry to yell but its muy important B - ur spark plug gap if fine C - 10 - 12 BTDC should be fine as well - have it loose and the timing light hooked up for an imidate adjustment D - valves had to have been already set cold - then reset when hot E -" crank it over with no spark to build oil pressure. Is this safe?" Safe - yes Needed - ive never done it and ive rebuilt half a dozen L's Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted October 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2013 Okay everything is checked off except for the last one and readjust valves when hot. So your saying you dont crank to build pressure? Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted October 18, 2013 Report Share Posted October 18, 2013 me - no i have never done that, BUT im sure it wouldnt hurt. Keep in mind tho, pressure will build in moments Quote Link to comment
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