New To the 720 crowd..

[nismo24096]

Maybe i should have been clearer on how i planned to connect the bed to the cab..with your normal blow thru design you connect the bed and cab using a rubber membrain think intertube material here but alittle thicker.both the bed and cab would have a metal box frame bolted to the sheetmetal to keep it rigid and you link those with the rubber which creates a weather tight passage between the two..but they can still flex indepent of each other... most likely i will not e doing this to the truck but if i did that is how i would do it.

[nismo24096]

ok. made some progress...KINDA...lol heres what it looks like now.

 

what you see of the light wires.

 

now the problem is ..only the lights work..lol nothing else is working. something told me I should have tested it before I completely wrapped everything up...

so my question for you guys is this.  if the coils are not hooked up yet will that have any effect on the rest of the truck like the wipers , inside lights etc..  im sure I have either one of the blue wires in the wrong place or a ground is not correct.  ran out of daylight and sanity to continue to work on it.. I will start trouble shooting it tomorrow...Im sure its something simple..its just the unwrapping and tapping thats gonna be a pain.

 I have wire loom on everything also..

[datzenmike]

 

I sort of get the 'clean look' and my 710 wiring travels along the fender and enters at the back of the battery also. But it's in a sheet metal channel and protected from damage and water. There's a good reason the 720 wiring is where it is. This needs to be protected against chafing where it passes though the metal body. That test plug will rot out from water and salt in a couple of years if rocks thrown by the tires doesn't chew through the electrical tape first. At least wrap with some of that split harness covering.

[datzenmike]

 

My 710 has an engine harness above the wheel but unlike that, it's protected by a sheet metal tube. Those wires are going to chafe where the pass through the metal. That plug connector is going to rot from salt? dirt and water. There are three main power leads into the cab in that harness, and although protected by fusible links at the battery end, do you really want them to test them? At the least you will experience intermittent electrical problems from water and wire damage over time. Even a minor fender bender can pinch those wires. Grommet the passage holes through the walls. The inner fender liner will help but dirt and water will get in.

[nismo24096]

thanks for the input. an yes all the wires are in a wire loom. the split plastic kind. and that check conector is actually going to be mounted though the inner fender. just have not drilled the hole for it yet. 

Once I figure out the short or whatever is causing the power issue I plan on running a shield along the bottom of the wire harness to protect if from rocks and other things from the tires. its not done just yet. and where the wires pass trough the firewall will have a rubber seal just like the factory one had....

[datzenmike]

Good stuff. I'm a past sufferer from my own engineering and have made lots of stuff that worked start not to work.

[DaveZilla]

I'm agreeing with Mike on the wiring to some extent, but I'm also thinking if done right there should be no issues... where your wiring exits to the outside of the fenders... the 90-96 300zx starter wiring grommet should fit that hole near perfectly, then the lower hole where they come out, wrap the wiring with some teflon sheet or tubing slit down one side and zip tie into place over the wiring, then fill the entire void with RTV, or better yet, a 2 part rubber sealant that'll cure all the way thru, just spray on some mold release before filling with sealant so you can get the wires (and the new homemade grommet) outta there if you ever need to remove them. that should keep them from breaking or chafing thru where they exit, then to protect the rest of the wiring, some kind of shield under the harness to prevent rocks and road debris from being spit up and hitting the wiring, maybe more teflon tubing slit down one side and zip tied over the harness or some of that really large heat shrink tubing would offer some decent protection from just about anything but a fender bender.

 

Another thing that you could borrow from the 90 to 96 300zx's is they have a plastic shield to protect the wiring and brake & fuel lines that run under the car, you may be able to find these shields at a junkyard and cut them to the right size and shape to use them to protect the wiring from the stuff the tires can spit up.

 

It's definitely looking good and I'm sure you'll be doing everything you can to be sure this'll last, just a few extra ideas you may be able to use...

[nismo24096]

IT'S ALIVE....ALIVE I TELL YA....Just as I figured...it was something simple and stupid...lol  seems there are two white plugs in the bay that have two white wires coming out of them...one of course goes to the fuseable link the other does not...go figure I had them mixed up..funny cause normally nissan is good about not making plugs interchangeable...oh well. now to continue on with the rest of the show...now that I know it will run I need to finish with the grommets and shielding and finish it up.

[DaveZilla]

Awesome!! ... glad you got it going... right after I uploaded a TON of pics into your PM... lol

Anyway... now you got them if ya need them later...

[nismo24096]

Well I decided to remove the ac..for now. took out all the hard lines caped off the compressor and lines through the firewall. took out the core up front..reason being is I found more issues with the hard lines and rubber ones. things like cracks that were tapped up with metal tape. and hard lines that were crimped almost shut. so since I will have to replace all the lines anyways i took them out and just cut off the belt that runs the compressor. it was badly cracked anyways. was gonna remove the compressor too but its not hurting anything just chillin in there.

[DaveZilla]

Yeah.. that can get really expensive really fast if you got a lot of broken lines etc.. you may get lucky at a junkyard, but most the time it's best to just have some new lines made by a hose shop. I know I bought an evaporator and expansion valve for mine when I went to fix it and found out After my stuff came in that mine was dealer installed and not factory installed so it was different. Once I found out it was dealer installed tho it was less expensive since most the parts are the universal fit type. I may need to have someone make me a new return hose when I'm ready to do my turbo upgrade because the dealer installed hose runs right between the exhaust manifold and master cylinder and I hadn't checked to see if I can re route it yet.

 

I do have a factory service manual for the 86 model year tho so now I can check those kind of things before ordering a bunch of parts that won't work on mine... and if you need and references from the service manual I can always scan whatever pages you might need...

[datzenmike]

I do have a factory service manual for the 86 model year tho so now I can check those kind of things before ordering a bunch of parts that won't work on mine... and if you need and references from the service manual I can always scan whatever pages you might need...

.

An '86 720???? Good, does it have the Z20 engine listed along with the Z24 and the SD25 for that year????? 

[DaveZilla]

Yes... it covers both engines the Z20 and the Z24, and it also covers the SD25

[nismo24096]

Hey guys, I was wondering where I could source new bed bolts to mount the bed back to the frame, I had to cut some of them out since they were rusted so bad..can't seem to find them anywhere. 

Thanks for the help.

[datzenmike]

Yes... it covers both engines the Z20 and the Z24, and it also covers the SD25

.

Excellent. Thank you.

 

 

 

Uhhh. Unfortunately this just begs the question.... Was the Z20 available with California emissions ???

[wayno]

Hey guys, I was wondering where I could source new bed bolts to mount the bed back to the frame, I had to cut some of them out since they were rusted so bad..can't seem to find them anywhere. 

Thanks for the help.

 

Just go to a nut and bolt supplier and buy what will ever work, you are not going to find what you need at and reasonable price, bolts, washers, and nuts/locknuts.

If you have wrecking yards around there with 720s in them, you could try removing what you need also, or also look at other trucks, they might have something you can use also.

[datzenmike]

wayno, are the 720 bed bolts the same as the 620? They have an eccentric washer that turns and butts against a channel wall to hold against the nut being tightened. You can't access the top of the bolt anyway. These get so rusty that removing them causes the washer to twist out of shape and spin. Leading to cutting them off.

[nismo24096]

Correct mike which is why i had to cut some off. Im sure i can find something that will work..just making sure i couldnt find factory stuff first

[wayno]

wayno, are the 720 bed bolts the same as the 620? They have an eccentric washer that turns and butts against a channel wall to hold against the nut being tightened. You can't access the top of the bolt anyway. These get so rusty that removing them causes the washer to twist out of shape and spin. Leading to cutting them off.

 

I have never pulled a 620 apart, would not know.

[datzenmike]

...but you probably have 720s.

[wayno]

...but you probably have 720s.

I am not sure your talking to me Mike, I have had lots of 720s, and I might have what he needs, maybe, the trouble is, half of them are rusty pieces of shit, and the good ones I have used on my truck projects.

Does he know the exact sizes he needs???, I can look to see if I have any good ones if he knows the exact length.

[datzenmike]

Sorry, what I meant was you probably have taken a 720 bed off and can say what the bolts were like. (fuck i need acoffee)

[nismo24096]

lol...mike...its all good guys. I was mainly trying to see if one could still source the factory bolts from anywhere... I will go by nissan just to see what the new truck bolts look like but worst case I will just find something that will work at the hardware store...Thanks for the input though.

[wayno]

lol...mike...its all good guys. I was mainly trying to see if one could still source the factory bolts from anywhere... I will go by nissan just to see what the new truck bolts look like but worst case I will just find something that will work at the hardware store...Thanks for the input though.

 

If you know the lengths you need I can look at what I have in the bucket, I have a 5 gallon bucket full of that stuff.

[datzenmike]

You may end up with ordinary bolts with something welded on the top to prevent spinning.