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clutch upgrade


ssnapz

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1 mil = archaic nomenclature for 0.001". Not often used anymore due to the metric system.

 

Ya this. I used to be a mech for a paper plant, they use mil for w/e reason. Also plastic (again for reasons I dont know) like your saying Mike.

 

xnke I was just looking at your thread on hbz, nice work with that sc, I'll be following your footsteps with it most likely. 

 

 

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So I weighed a stock 95 240 sx that I kill in a race on the same scale I weigh my truck with and it is 3100, 200 more then me. Those are supposed to be 140hp stock. How can 120 @ 2900 beat 140 @ 3100 let alone be a car lenght ahead in 2 nd gear. I know it ain't driver, I don't drag race and he pulls 8.97 in his sentra.

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Your NapZ 2.4L SOHC low-port, no-portwork, stock valve, mild cam engine does not make 175HP. You'll be lucky to make 140HP. 200lbs and aggressive driving can have you a carlength or two ahead in second gear...Hell, you'd pull on my Z till 2nd gear and 3000RPM, then I'll be on down the road and gone. My Z is about 175HP and 2550lbs, on a good clear day with the HP tune instead of my daily tune. (It's all about the milage, baby!)

 

Honestly, if you're burning up clutches then you're feathering the clutch and you've glazed it over. Buy a new exedy stock replacement clutch for a 280ZX 2+2 and be done with it. Make sure you have the flywheel surfaced properly, and throw the old pressure plate away. If you've burned up a clutch, the flywheel is due for at minimum a surfacing, if not outright replacement, due to heat checking and warpage. The pressure plate should be treated similarly, and most places don't surface pressure plates anymore.

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HP for various Datsun Dyno readings.

 

http://www.datsuns.com/Tech/datsundyno.htm

 

 

Guess you did not read this...good to be stubborn but that can only take you so far, specially when you make claims as far as HP i concerned. Not knocking down your engine but when you make claims like that, you better back it up, especially here... :sleep:

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I fully agree my motor shouldn't put those numbers with the little I've done to it but my power don't come on till 3000 and pulls all the way to 6500, 7000 if its cold enough out, and my head shouldn't pull past 5 but it does

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Where it pulls to it primarily decided by the cam. You have a cam installed so... Most cams (besides the most mild) will have you pulling until 6-7k. My stock rebuild head with a far 311 cam pulls to 7k no problem and at .463 lift/329 dur its not that extreme really. 


 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Found my problem, I had a counterfeit clutch. Warrantied my clutch out and found a huge difference, bothe where Sachs heavy duty. My old one said made in Japan on the pressure plate and t/o bearing and made in Korea on the disc. Its a German made clutch. Both came from monument in a Sachs box with the same part numbers. Ill post pics tomorrow when I'm not on my phone

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  • 3 weeks later...

Found my problem, I had a counterfeit clutch. Warrantied my clutch out and found a huge difference, bothe where Sachs heavy duty. My old one said made in Japan on the pressure plate and t/o bearing and made in Korea on the disc. Its a German made clutch. Both came from monument in a Sachs box with the same part numbers. Ill post pics tomorrow when I'm not on my phone

Who the fuck would want to counterfeit a sachs clutch?   Sachs is not german made. atleast not anymore.  They have moved almost all production to korea.   Wait why the hell are you using a sachs clutch anyways? 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  GO EXEDY OR GO HOME.

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So I weighed a stock 95 240 sx that I kill in a race on the same scale I weigh my truck with and it is 3100, 200 more then me. Those are supposed to be 140hp stock. How can 120 @ 2900 beat 140 @ 3100 let alone be a car lenght ahead in 2 nd gear. I know it ain't driver, I don't drag race and he pulls 8.97 in his sentra.

Welcome to the world of GEAR RATIOS.   Your truck liekly has a 4.375 rear ratio and the 240 has a 4.08 or possibly a 3.692.  Does this answer your question? :geek: 

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alot of the discs are outsourced to Korea now.

 

Sachs makes alot in Mexico also

 

key is when you buy a Daiken stage 1 thats what your getting the others is just stock weak clutch but works.

Be honest I highely dought its counterfeit what yoiu bought unless it says Made in China

 

I got a "Spec" Clutch in my L16 and its Stout but I think it came with a Korean made disc also. but it dont say where the pressure plate is made so thats anybodys guess.

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New and old clutch both same part number from same store

I guess you haven't ever worked at a parts store or been around many auto parts. Alto of times parts manufacturers will buy parts from other companies and re-box them in their own label. I have bought many parts before that were actually oem Nissan stuff in a wholesaler box.  Knock sensors are like this alot.  Just because its different doesn't mean its counterfeit.  It is possible that it could have been boxed wrong from the factory.

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Actually I've been a mechanic for 15 years and own my own shop now, so I've dealt with a few parts houses. They buy their parts from venders, so get a new vendor you get different parts. I just didn't expect monument to have a crap vendor. And people putting crap parts in a good box is counterfeiting parts.I actually found a pattern of this with Sachs clutches with a simple Google search.

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Actually I've been a mechanic for 15 years and own my own shop now, so I've dealt with a few parts houses. They buy their parts from venders, so get a new vendor you get different parts. I just didn't expect monument to have a crap vendor. And people putting crap parts in a good box is counterfeiting parts.I actually found a pattern of this with Sachs clutches with a simple Google search.

When are you gonna quit crying moaning and wasting your time buying and changing clutches?  Get an EXEDY and get on with your life. 15 years of mechanic experience and you still don't know what a good brand of clutch is.  This thread is so much FAIL.

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