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About Xnke

  • Rank
    Hall Monitor
  • Birthday 12/27/1987

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  • Location
    Bowling Green KY
  • Cars
    '72 S30
  • Occupation
  1. Xnke

    Show me your Tool............

    Don't buy Williams, Snap-On, SuperKrome, Blue-Point, or Craftsman, either then. All made by and owned by Stanley Tool Co.
  2. Xnke

    L Series EFI Manifolds coming soon.

    Just as an aside, I made a run of 4 EFI L20B manifolds last year, sold one to a member here and used one on a dyno mule later. Even at 450$-ish I only sold the one here, one locally, and one was kept for dyno testing. The last one is still sitting here waiting to be assembled and sold. Ratsun isn't the place to try and sell new parts, try over on the 510realm.
  3. Xnke

    Adjustable cam gear in US???

    The Nismo gear works fine-but it's fiddly and just isn't as nice as the Kameari gear. I've *never* had a properly torqued (use a damn torque wrench!) cam gear come loose or the adjustable cam gear loose it's grip and slip.
  4. Xnke

    Guidance and Updated l28e build

    What head mod? There are many out there...some work, some don't. I drive a 12lb flywheel every day-but it sucks in traffic and does not improve horsepower or reliability. LD28 cranks aren't that spendy, bud. You are just finding the ones people are selling for profit, not the ones in junkyards. Don't cut the block to 89mm without a sonic check. Most F54 blocks won't go that big, and about half of the N42 blocks won't go that big...You need at least 0.120" wall thickness on the thin side, and you want 0.200" wall thickness at the thrust side. Thinner is asking for problems with ring seal and engine life.
  5. Xnke

    Weber 45's vs 50 or 55 dco/sp's

    DCOE50's aren't needed until you start turning 9-10KRPMs. The 45's are fine. The 40mm chokes probably could stand to be 42's, but it'll start going to shit on the bottom end as you get closer to 48mm chokes. Also, 50DCOE's do not fit the same manifold as 45DCOE's...just so you know. L20B rods with good rod bolts will be fine until 8000RPM/260HP. Until you hit those, don't worry about the rods. Butt dynos are notoriously inaccurate, they are strongly affected by aural interference.
  6. The 7.3l will have a first gen E4OD, they are junk. Get a 96-97 E4OD and they will last forever, or get that auto rebuilt to 97+ spec and it will be fine. They shifted so soft and smooth they burned up clutches, so Ford corrected the problem later in the run. The Ford, if maintained to the same level you maintain the Datsun, will be more reliable-but if you neglect it as being "modern" then it will bite you. The 7.3 IDI is a great little diesel, I ran a small fleet of those 94 auto/IDI trucks and the only issue was the transmission. We manual swapped some and rebuilt the auto in others, once up to the proper shift speeds they were fine.
  7. I can't say that there isn't a KA bell that's the same as a Z, as I only have KA24DE bellhousings right now. It's entirely possible that there's one that's the same, I just haven't ever noticed.
  8. Xnke

    Guidance and Updated l28e build

    Who is doing the head porting?
  9. They are about 5 degrees different. Got all three out in the shop. L 20 degrees counterclockwise Z 5 degrees clockwise KA 10 degrees clockwise Is it a difference in SOHC vs DOHC?
  10. Xnke

    Guidance and Updated l28e build

    A full megasquirt install is about 800 bucks. It's what you'll spend to get a set of SUs, so it's personal preference at this level. There are a lot of folks who seem to think it's easy to make N/A power...it isn't hard but it requires head porting and matching parts properly. Be conservative, match parts, and you can make 180hp pretty easy. 200 hp and up requires head porting, the stock fuel injection intakes will start choking the engine at 5500rpm. Not lack of air, just air speed too high in the ports.
  11. Xnke

    Most HP ever from a n/a L4 Nissan L20b

    This is the Tony Knight "fuck the SR20" project. Highest L20B power I know of in a more-than-one-dyno pull kinda way. http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67302027-Doing-some-stupid-shit-to-an-old-datsun-head He does like I do-shows you all the details-but even though I know exactly how he did it, I would never claim to be able to copy what he's done and achieve the same result! I have a few spare E88 castings that are going to get this treatment for the L6, however-and I might just do my old 210 casting that I use for mock-ups!
  12. The stock mounts *should* work out ok, but you will need to make sure the brackets on the KA stay on the KA, and the Z and KA bellhousings are tilted differently-the KA leans to the driver's side of the car more than the Z. Depending on your engine, pan, etc, it may be fine-as long as they tilt a little to the driver's side they'll oil properly.
  13. Xnke

    Guidance and Updated l28e build

    You'll be lucky to make 180HP with the cam, intake, and bore...at the crank-not at the wheels. Stock is 150HP at the crank. Either cam will do, because both cams are going to be limited by the stock, unported cylinder head. No head work, no horsepower. That's how it works. The 0.040" bore won't help with torque, horsepower, or otherwise-the N33 intake is a good carb intake, but is worth 3-4 HP over the E88 casting. The headers will probably actually hurt you some going with side pipes, a properly designed and built 3 into 2 into 1 with a full exhaust will do better. The N42 blocks have 10cc dished pistons to match the open-chamber head-you will work out to about 8.5:1 compression. Shaving the head approximately 1mm will bring you to 9.5:1, which is as high as you can go on pump fuel IF you run the 275-280* cam. A stock cam will not tolerate it. For a street performance L28, the N47 head is somewhat limited, but workable-the exhaust ports with the round liners will do about 138CFM when properly blended into the liner and the valve job is cut correctly. That's enough. The intake port can be pushed up quite a bit, 200CFM should be easily gotten by any decent head porter. Remember-those ITS L24's make 250HP at the crank, and they are "stock"...down to the cam lift and duration. Lobe profiles can change, but duration and lift have to be the same. No head porting, must run stock exhaust manifold, must run SU's and stock intake castings. They also cost multiple tens of thousands from the engine builders who can wring that kind of power from a "stock" engine. Budget 12-18K for one of those... Doing it with the L28, with no rules on "stock" will bring that cost down to about 3500$. The first 2200$ will go to the guy doing the head/cam/valve job though, the rest is just to scrub up the block and get good bearings, rod bolts, and rings into it...
  14. Xnke

    Guidance and Updated l28e build

    For your application, don't bother with even opening the engine...just swap the cam kit on and run it. The stock bottom end, properly fueled and timed, is perfectly happy at 450 crank HP, and up to 7200RPM. There is no reason to change things until that point. Although, I do usually put in a set of ARP rod bolts just for peace of mind-rod bolts are the first thing to break. Even at 150,000 miles, I've run stock junkyard longblocks racing at 300+HP for literally 24 hours at a time, just bolt the intake, exhaust, turbo on, time them and send the driver onto the track. One of the street cars has 288,000 miles on it and just puffs a slight bit of blue smoke on startup, needs a set of valve stem seals these days. Been making 300+ HP from it for 8 years now. The stock SU's in good condition will take a stock-headed L28 to 7000RPM all day, with no issues, and will fuel up to 250HP with SCCA ITS legal mods (no boring, no small shafts, no roller bearings, etc) and the flat-top carbs, if you can get a set in good condition, are much better than the roundtops-the problem is getting a set in good condition, since so many people think they're trash, they get treated like trash and most sets are junk these days. The Schneider cam kit will be fine for a daily driver-and that stage 2 kit will be about as big as you can run on a stock engine without sacrificing drivability. The Stage 3 kit won't gain you anything other than stinky idle, crap fuel economy, and a choppy idle sound...you won't pick up power with it without spending a lot more on supporting components. Exactly which L28 do you have? What head casting/block casting/intake/exhaust do you have to work with?
  15. You want an 8mm or 5/16" feed line and at a minimum a 6mm or 1/4" return line. If you don't have that, then yes, you'll need up upsize the fuel lines-on my datsun I kept the stock 6mm feed line and installed a larger 5/16" line, now the original fuel feed is the return and the feedline is 5/16". On customer cars I just run 5/16" fuel line for streeters and 3/8" or 1/2" for the racers, depending on HP and fueling requirements. As far as fuel pump, Airtex E2000 is fine-and they're inexpensive. Readily adaptable, but make sure your line from the fuel tank is at least 3/8" diameter and picks up near the bottom-you do not want to run the inlet dry nor do you want to have the pump trying to "suck" fuel uphill. Make sure the pump is lower than the bottom of the tank (even if it has to draw fuel up the line then down to the pump) because you want to keep the pump inlet flooded. They're greased to protect them on the first dry start-but the fuel washes that grease out and starting the pump dry will kill it in short order. This goes for any gerotor style pump, and most turbine style pumps too. The 240SX harness-is it the complete car harness or just the engine harness? If it's the whole car...then I would start swapping out the harness from headlight to taillights! (that's part of what makes the truck harness soo good too-all the wires are long enough or too long for just about anything.

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