in need of some L16 dizzy help

[debo]

Ive been having timing issues w/ my EI dizzy so i decided to go back to the oem unit because the dizzy installed was done by the previous owner and i had no idea what car it is from to try and get parts for it.

my issue now is that a hack job was performed under my hood and i cant really tell what wires to reconnect for the factory dizzy. first attempt ended in some smoke as i cranked the motor, looks like just some wire insulation melted nothing serious looking, but i would really appreciate some help as this is my work vehicle and i have work tomorrow lol. thanks alot

sorry the site isnt allowing me to post images from photobucket

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u401/debo057/DSCN3155_zpsb46c076e.jpg

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u401/debo057/DSCN3152_zps0f857f29.jpg

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u401/debo057/DSCN3153_zps44ab9edf.jpg

[datzenmike]

The EI dizzy will have a part number on the side. 22100-????? I can ID the dizzy if you get it.

 

The Nissan EI is better than the points dizzy in every way. It's worth sorting out any problem and getting it running. You will pretty much never have to set the timing, no points to set or replace and higher output.

[debo]

at this point id like to just get this new points dizzy working and eventually get a matchbox unit.

the # on the EI dizzy is  D4R85-07    22100 52A05

[datzenmike]

I'm not getting anything for that number. Try a picture when you can.

[debo]

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u401/debo057/DSCN3159_zpsd340f53b.jpg

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u401/debo057/DSCN3156_zps1812713f.jpg

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u401/debo057/DSCN3160_zpsee0874cd.jpg

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u401/debo057/DSCN3160_zpsee0874cd.jpg

sorry for the crappy pics, idk why my nikons takin such shitty photos

[debo]

btw its a 71, if anyone knows what color wires are supposed to be connected to the ballast resistor and coil that would help alot, theres a birds nest of wires in that corner, ive been searching every diagram i can find and cant seem to find what i need.

for instance, which connector on the dizzy is + or - , that would help tons so i at least know that is right.

[Rays74]

Bummer your Nikon wants to focus on crap BEHIND the subject......lol. 

The insides of your dist. look unlike any I've ever seen.......the center bit is definitely a matchbox type, but where's the magnetic ring that it works with?? I dunno.

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

my issue now is that a hack job was performed under my hood and i cant really tell what wires to reconnect for the factory dizzy

 

simple page 181 in Haynes manual has this. BUY THIS MOFO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! before you add another 510 to thew list or junked out cars

 

point dizzy needs a point coil and the ballast resisitor.

Blk/white wire(key ON 12volt) goes to the ballast resisitor

otherside ballst resisitor will be a blk/grn wire

then there will be a blk/blu wire(12volt during START) and this goes to the + side coil.

 

this is EZ to figure out get a VOLT METER/

Blk/wht is 12volt key ON

Blk/Blu is 12volt key START

Blk/bgrn and blk/ blu are really shorted together under the tape. so really it doesnt mayyer if ther blk/grn or blk/blu is swapped.

 

the rest of the wires around there is horn . washer pump ect.

 

youll need to fint the wire. I think its a blk.red wire that goers to the points. The main points is the big condensor on the side. more towards valve cover. the others side is only ised for the 3rd gear swithc. I think that a yell wire.

 

 

PS i dont know why you post photos of the electric dizzy when you want the point dizzy hook up.

 

 

this is a 15min job

[datzenmike]

That's not from an L series motor. It does look like a later 80s dizzy somewhat like used on a Z24 motor. The 'matchbox' module is built inside the dizzy case. Funny the number does not come up either. 

[DISLEXICDIME]

its from a later a series they must have swapped the stand

[bananahamuck]

Maybe they did this swap.???? < notice question marks.


http://community.ratsun.net/topic/40030-how-to-nissan-sentra-electronic-ignition-for-your-l-series/

but the pick-up and the numbers don't look exactly like yours either

If your point and click camera has a flower icon on it click that,, and that usually helps get better up close pictures..

[datsunaholic]

Looks like a Sentra distributor.  The one on my 310 looks like that.  Don't know how the heck you'd get it onto an L-series.

[debo]

thanks for the info, yeah it does indeed look like a sentra dizzy.

thanks hainz not knowing what color wires go where was driving me crazy i didnt want want to fuck anything up because i have to drive it to work today.

ill be messin with it again tonight.

my last question is on the dual points dizzy, which connector is the + and which is -

[banzai510(hainz)]

my last question is on the dual points dizzy, which connector is the + and which is -

 

 

 

what does this mean? the dizzy wire that goes to the minus side of the coil is the blk/red I believe.(or you can make your own) it will go to the big condensor side. just run that set of points dont even use the second set.

 

the dizzy becomes a grounding switch. points close the coil charges up// then points open the magnectic field around coil collaspses and then goes thru the center coil wire out to the correct spark plug.

 

 

of caose I hope you got your motor on TDC and this all lines up 1 3 4 2 fire order counter clock wise

[debo]

sorry for the noob sounding questions, I am familiar w/ points and such as i took my A&P years ago but I have only worked on motorcycles since really. I had it @ TDC, I had everything correct but the wires,the first attemp at starting the car after i hooked up the new dizzy there was a little puff of smoke i didnt want to just try anything as this is my way to work. All the wires were just zip tied together and looked like they had been painted over when the car was painted so everything was a lil tough to figure out in the 30~ degree weather lastnight lol. I reconnected the EI dizzy that was there to get to work today but i will try the swap again tonight. thanks for all the info you guys are a huge help!

BTW this car was imported from puerto rico so who knows what car they pulled parts from to put on this 510 lol

[banzai510(hainz)]

I reconnected the EI dizzy that was there to get to work today ????????

If that works whey bother with points.

 

if the point coil is still on this car it will heat up usein a EI dizzy. esp not using a ballast resisitor.

 

 

EI dizzy will require a EI coil.

 

Point dizzy requires point coil and ballast resisitor

[debo]

my problem started with the vacume canister on the EI dizzy that was on the car didnt work. i couldnt figure out what dizzy it was to replace the canister. the points dizzy was $75 i figured id throw that in until i was able to source a 620 EI dizzy along with pedistal and timing plate. I have the clymer service repair handbook along with all the 510 archived stuff and none of the diagrams had color codes on the wires and thats what gave a problems. but now that you have givin me some great info i think ill be able to get it done after work if its not too cold lol

[banzai510(hainz)]

theres a basic wire systen maybe in the How To section.

I cant post it anymore but its what I told you.

 

far as I know that could be a point coil on and wire straight the the EI 12volts and its cooking it.

 

I have run with out vac adv and dont notice that much of a difference.

 

to me your mixing and mismatching parts.