In which a 4x4 620 is built

[SandyMush620]

hey if you dont get the dual coils running, you can use an L-series dist, and just run the passenger side of plugs. well i guess you could run either side, i just chose the intake side.

 

in doing this youll have to set the timing then like an L-series at like 12deg btdc, but itll run, and really well too.

 

my motto; when you cant get an engine running on its own ignition, find an L-series distributor! lol

Thanks! Great information. I have a brand new L-series distributor. That's what I will do if this doesn't work out.

[DRIVEN]

Good lawd that's a lot of money!  $100 would go a long way towards a new one.

A bottle of CLR is $8.  I've had luck with it in the past.

[crackerjack69]

This truck is lookin great. I almost hate you for getting my wheels turning in regards to one of my 620's, lolz. 4x4+620=WIN!  Once you set your mind on a paint color, I could send you a RatnWrenches decal. Because I like this thread :D

[SandyMush620]

A bottle of CLR is $8.  I've had luck with it in the past.

 

There's a thought.  I think I have a bottle of that.

 

This truck is lookin great. I almost hate you for getting my wheels turning in regards to one of my 620's, lolz. 4x4+620=WIN!  Once you set your mind on a paint color, I could send you a RatnWrenches decal. Because I like this thread :D

 

Sounds good!  I have been wanting a RatnWrenches decal.  The color is something I think about every day...tough choice, but I will have to settle on one eventually.

 

 

I appreciate everyone's responses and input.  This is my first build thread, and it's nice to see interest in my project.

[SandyMush620]

Progress!  Installed the exhaust manifold, plug wires, cap and rotor today, then drained the tank and poured in some fresh gas.  I have to rework the wires to the fuel pump and sender, but I ran the pump off of a jumper box and got the fuel flowing.  The accelerator pump in the carb doesn't work, but the Z24 fired right up with a splash of gas.  It idled low and rough until I plugged a few vacuum ports on the carb and intake.  Then it idled great.  I only ran it for about 15 seconds since the cooling system isn't in place yet.

 

The tank draining:

 

 

I'm going to try to post a video.  It's shaky since I had to hold the camera and lean in the door at the same time, but I think the effect is kinda cool.

 

[Kirden]

Nice work :)

 

I know you have been asked a lot, but any new developments on paint color :P

[SandyMush620]

Nice work :)

 

I know you have been asked a lot, but any new developments on paint color :P

 

Nah.  I guess I'm leaning towards the metallic blue, but really it's still wide open.  I don't think I have mentioned it, but I'm also entertaining the idea of brown metallic over tan.

[Kirden]

I usually hate brown... With a passion. Maybe it is because I broke my arm playing the "everything brown is shit" game with my cousin... Lets just say silk doesn't take to kindly to being jumped on to avoid the "shit sea" brown carpet.

 

However, my grandfather had a brown and tan 4x4 F150 a long time ago, beautiful truck. I have also seen other older trucks with large tires that look good brown. So honestly, I really like the idea of a brown over tan setup on the 620.

[SandyMush620]

Yesterday I got the water pump installed and almost finished the steering column. The water pump was pretty routine after clearing a couple of the bolt holes of mud daubers. I'm just happy they sent me the right one since two fan bolt patterns were listed. The pump is a Bosch.

 

 

I haven't found any threads discussing the way others have installed the 720 steering column in the 620 body, but I think I am on the right track. I had to cut off the firewall plate from the column because it didn't allow the shaft to go far enough into the engine bay to seat the rag joint. Once the plate was gone, I found that the column settled into about the same location in the firewall hole as the solid 620 column did, so i found a way to utilize the original 620 boot/gasket and surrounding plate for an OE appearance.

 

 

Since the 720 shaft has u-joints in it, the cloumn will have to be secured where it comes through the firewall as it was in the 720. To do this, I will weld a brace between the column and the gasket plate on the inside of the wall so it will function as the original plate did and still allow the column to be removed.

 

 

At the top of the column, I trimmed off a couple unused mounting tabs and drilled new holes in the support structure under the dash to mount the column. The tilt function is operational. No pic, but I will get one if someone requests it. I will need to find the 720 plastic column housing that goes between the steering wheel and dash.

[blueridgespeed]

Good lawd that's a lot of money!  $100 would go a long way towards a new one.

Sam's Radiator in Asheville has boiled out my last few Datsun radiators.  He charges 60-80 if you don't need repair- and sometimes paints it black, sometimes not (I smile, pay, and leave happy either way)

[SandyMush620]

Sam's Radiator in Asheville has boiled out my last few Datsun radiators.  He charges 60-80 if you don't need repair- and sometimes paints it black, sometimes not (I smile, pay, and leave happy either way)

 

Well hey Josh.  Good to hear from you.  I need to visit Brian's 510 thread; it's been a while.

 

Maybe I'm just cheap, but that just seems like a hefty price for dipping a part in a vat of hot solvent.  Anytime I dropped off parts at Napa for machine work, the guys would dip any other parts I brought in for free.  I wouldn't expect a shop to dip something for free without doing some billable work, but especially if the radiator needs any repair I just can't feel the value.  Evidentally it is a reasonable charge, but I don't think it's for me.

 

BTW, if you or Brian need anything that I may have left over from the 620's, let me know.

[]2eDeYe]

I like that column mode. How hard would it be to mod it to work with the 620 plastic?

 

Can you snap a pic of that end?

[SandyMush620]

I like that column mode. How hard would it be to mod it to work with the 620 plastic?

 

Can you snap a pic of that end?

 

Yeah, I will snap a couple.  It will be Wednesday when I'm on that side of town again, but I'll get some pics then.  I think the biggest challenge to using the 620 plastic would be the combination switches, but I didn't really consider that option, so it would be worth a look.  I am also considering swapping in a 720 dash for the better gauges, but I don't have one and I don't know how difficult the swap is, though I know it has been done.

[]2eDeYe]

You might PM Datzenmike he swapped in a complete 720 dash into his 620.

[SandyMush620]

You know Redeye, the more I think about the steering column plastic, the more I think this is a great idea. IIRC, the switches in the 620 are mounted to the plastic, not the column like in the 720. Using the 620 plastic and switches may be pretty easy, and make the wiring p-n-p.

[]2eDeYe]

The switches on the 620 slide over the column.

[SandyMush620]

The switches on the 620 slide over the column.

 

Hmm, okay.  I guess I will have to wrap my eyes around it again.  :blush:

[SandyMush620]

I got the steering column install wrapped up today.  I cut a small filler piece from scrap to brace the column to the boot plate.  I'm not good with metal gauges, but it's a little thicker than autobody sheetmetal and the semi-circle side that is against the column has a pre-existing lip that will increase rigidity.  These pics show the piece test-fitted, then tacked in place.

 

 

 

Then I removed the column, welded it up, ground the welds a little, and rattle-canned it.

 

 

 

I haven't been welding long, but in anticipation for future fab and mod work, I purchased a quality welder.

 

 

 

 

 

[SandyMush620]

More column oics.  The finished column mount in place:

 

 

And here are a couple shots of the upper part of the column:

 

 

 

 

[]2eDeYe]

Looks like other that the tilt, it is pretty much the same as the 620 column. Thanks for the pictures :D

[SandyMush620]

Looks like other that the tilt, it is pretty much the same as the 620 column. Thanks for the pictures :D

 

Yeah, I guess it does.  I will check my options for switches and trim when I get to that point.

[SandyMush620]

A friend of mine was in town today, but I still managed to get the radiator and fan installed. I will need to route the upper coolant hose to the right side of the engine since both water ports are on the same side of the Z24.  I expect I will have to splice two or three hoses together with something like exhaust adapters to make the turns.

 

 

There is a nice 1" or so space between the core and fan.  The 620 shroud won't work because the fan opening is offset to the right and the Z fan is offset to the left.  May have to fab or modify one if necessary.

 

I also tossed the stock carb for the Weber I had bought for the L20.  I had to slot two holes in the adapter slightly because the carb mount studs closest to the valve cover on the Z intake are a little further apart than the other two.  I used a reamer to elongate the holes and chamfer them for the recessed hold down screws.  That probably would have been a more interesting picture than another 32/36 on a Z24, but...

 

 

I have a little work to do to install a throttle cable, but I will document what it takes to make it happen.

[RacnJsn95]

Great work so far! Nice welder too!

[SandyMush620]

Great work so far! Nice welder too!

 

Thanks.  Nice truck BTW.  I remember reading a little about it somewhere.

[blueridgespeed]

Well hey Josh.  Good to hear from you.  I need to visit Brian's 510 thread; it's been a while.

 

Maybe I'm just cheap, but that just seems like a hefty price for dipping a part in a vat of hot solvent.  Anytime I dropped off parts at Napa for machine work, the guys would dip any other parts I brought in for free.  I wouldn't expect a shop to dip something for free without doing some billable work, but especially if the radiator needs any repair I just can't feel the value.  Evidentally it is a reasonable charge, but I don't think it's for me.

 

BTW, if you or Brian need anything that I may have left over from the 620's, let me know.

Yeah, you're cheap, but so am I and so are we all!  I remember the days when a free hot-tank at Napa was commonplace.  I'd say it'll still happen...but I was told "no" last time I asked down there.  As far as lower-cost alternatives, you can dip your radiator in your own 300 gallon vat of hot solvent for free, drain it, wash it, and spray it with black paint for about $5.  Can I use your hot-tank...?

 

Ha!  -just messing with you!  

 

Definitely check out Brian's wagon project on 510realm.  It's in my spray booth currently.  He and I don't seem to be making progress very quickly...you are rockin' the 4x4 project though!  I'll probably see you cruising our 'hood soon enough.

 

P.S. - you'll love the Miller 211.  I have one, bit the bullet on the $ and never regretted it once.  For sheet metal and light (brackets etc) even 1/8" plate etc - I don't really use the "auto set" much.  I tend to keep the wire feed in a fairly narrow range and adjust the amperage (metal thickness indicator dial) to suit.  The 110 use really helps with portability, but rember to hook up to 220V if you weld thicker stuff- it's much smoother/more consistent.