jefe de jefes Posted November 22, 2012 Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 Matchbox dizzy for L series engines. Needs a 10mm bolt for plate/pedestal. $95 shipped****SOLD**** thanks Matchbox dizzy for l series engines. Needs 1 bolt that holds the pedestal and timing plate together. 10mm I believe. Includes cap, rotor, pedestal,timing plate , and wiring connector. $100 shipped ****SOLD**** Thanks Link to comment
DanielC Posted November 22, 2012 Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 This can be made to work with a L-16 pedestal, by reclocking the distributor/oil pump drive spindle away from the standard location Link to comment
Dat Lurka Posted November 22, 2012 Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 What would it take to put this on an L20b? Link to comment
DanielC Posted November 22, 2012 Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 "What would it take to put this on an L20b?" 1. Remove your old distributor, and timing plate. 2. Set the engine at about 10 to 12 degrees before top dead center, #1. 3. Put this distributor in the hole where the old distributor was. 4. The distributor pick up rotor looks like this when it is firing the spark plug. 5. If you can twist the distributor body to look like the picture above, put the rotor on. It will point to where the #1 spark plug wire should be. If not, you have to reclock the oil pump spindle. 6. Put the cap on wires on, counterclockwise, 1, 3, 4, 2. 7. "B" terminal on the matchbox goes to ignition from the key, and positive on the coil. Use your ballast resistor if you use your old coil. 8. "C" terminal on the matchbox goes to coil negative. Here is a schematic of distributor wiring. The engine should run. Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 22, 2012 Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 22100-04W00 is from a non-California 2wd 720 pickup Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted November 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 ^^^ thanks for the added info guys. Link to comment
uberkevin Posted November 24, 2012 Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 This can be made to work with a L-16 pedestal, by reclocking the distributor/oil pump drive spindle away from the standard location Hey DanielC could you say more about this? I had bought a matchbox thinking it came with the pedestal, like it was in the Picture. But now I don't have one. Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 24, 2012 Report Share Posted November 24, 2012 I really dont see how the L16 pedastal will work w/o major modes to it as the tang is in a different location and the timming plate spacing is offset . The L16 is more In and the L20 more out for the threaded hole where the 10mm bolt goes down also there was 2 matchboxes and they used 2 styles of pedastals Kevin you should have made sure it came with a pedastal. In most rebuilds in the stores its the dizzy ONLY Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted November 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 1 sold , 1 remains. Thanks Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted December 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Pedestal found for the dizzy. I need to organize the garage :/ Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 How did you get the front cover off? Will have to take my E12-93 module apart. Notice that it has an extra plug on the right side??? Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted December 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 I think they are just glued on. It was an old , cheapy module I came across on my garage floor. The cover was partially lifted so I just pulled it off. Not much to them. Lots of unused space in there. Link to comment
72240z Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Is that all thats in there? Crazy.... Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 OK got it. Always wanted to do this with an E12-80 but didn't want to destroy one. Anyway here's my E12-93. As I mentioned earlier this was the one used on a 510 owner's L 4 cylinder who was on the Realm. His problem was that he would set the timing normally at 12 degrees BTDC but when revved up the timing would retard up to almost 20 degrees instead of advancing. WTF? was what everyone said at the time. Was the dizzy running backwards, vacuum advance backwards? mechanical advance weights on backwards? eventually someone asked what the module was off of. It was a later 280zx E12-93. I'm going to guess here, but if any Z car owners know more, please elaborate. I think that the 280zx has an elaborate advance/retard system built into the module run by the ECU. This would allow the timing to be tweaked forward and back for emissions and performance. Hell if the L28s had a knock sensor it would make a great ignition retard wouldn't it? This one is from an '84 Maxima with L24 and EFI. The inside is filled with a clear silicone? I touched it thinking it was hard like glass but it's more like hospital Jello. Sticky and stretches. Don't want to tear it. Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted December 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 ^^^^^ That's what I was expecting to see with the E12-80. Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Naw there's just the magnetic trigger signal and a power transistor that's normally at ground (to charge the coil) that shuts off. There is a circuit that allows the motor to be off with the key ON without power flowing through the coil heating it up. I see that everything is tightly mounted on that metal heat sink on the back. I clean dust and spider webs off mine so it stays cool. My experience with transistors and heat is that they become erratic and shut down when heated but come back on line when they cool down. Cool shit. Link to comment
72240z Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Its my understanding the E12-80 module has the dwell set in the module itself and just needs a dizzy/coil to work. Using a vac advance. Which is why they are perfect for a carb motor. Where as the E12-93 has an extra plug on the side that goes to the ecu which controls the advance/retard. Using that module without the ecu automatically retards the timing like 7 degrees. Which is why it sucks for a carb motor lol Link to comment
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