L series matchbox dizzy's

[jefe de jefes]

Matchbox dizzy for L series engines. Needs a 10mm bolt for plate/pedestal. $95 shipped****SOLD****

thanks

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Matchbox dizzy for l series engines. Needs 1 bolt that holds the pedestal and timing plate together. 10mm I believe. Includes cap, rotor, pedestal,timing plate , and wiring connector. $100 shipped ****SOLD****

Thanks

 

 

 

 

 

[DanielC]

This can be made to work with a L-16 pedestal, by reclocking the distributor/oil pump drive spindle away from the standard location

[Dat Lurka]

What would it take to put this on an L20b?

[DanielC]

"What would it take to put this on an L20b?"

1. Remove your old distributor, and timing plate.

2. Set the engine at about 10 to 12 degrees before top dead center, #1.

3. Put this distributor in the hole where the old distributor was.

4. The distributor pick up rotor looks like this when it is firing the spark plug.

5. If you can twist the distributor body to look like the picture above, put the rotor on. It will point to where the #1 spark plug wire should be. If not, you have to reclock the oil pump spindle.

6. Put the cap on wires on, counterclockwise, 1, 3, 4, 2.

7. "B" terminal on the matchbox goes to ignition from the key, and positive on the coil. Use your ballast resistor if you use your old coil.

8. "C" terminal on the matchbox goes to coil negative.

Here is a schematic of distributor wiring.

The engine should run.

[datzenmike]

22100-04W00 is from a non-California 2wd 720 pickup

[jefe de jefes]

^^^ thanks for the added info guys.

[uberkevin]

This can be made to work with a L-16 pedestal, by reclocking the distributor/oil pump drive spindle away from the standard location

 

Hey DanielC could you say more about this?

I had bought a matchbox thinking it came with the pedestal, like it was in the

Picture. But now I don't have one.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I really dont see how the L16 pedastal will work w/o major modes to it as the tang is in a different location and the timming plate spacing is offset . The L16 is more In and the L20 more out for the threaded hole where the 10mm bolt goes down

 

also there was 2 matchboxes and they used 2 styles of pedastals

 

 

Kevin you should have made sure it came with a pedastal. In most rebuilds in the stores its the dizzy ONLY

 

[jefe de jefes]

1 sold , 1 remains.

Thanks

[jefe de jefes]

Pedestal found for the dizzy. I need to organize the garage :/

[datzenmike]

 

How did you get the front cover off?

 

Will have to take my E12-93 module apart. Notice that it has an extra plug on the right side???

 

[jefe de jefes]

I think they are just glued on. It was an old , cheapy module I came across on my garage floor. The cover was partially lifted so I just pulled it off. Not much to them. Lots of unused space in there.

[72240z]

Is that all thats in there? Crazy....

[datzenmike]

OK got it. Always wanted to do this with an E12-80 but didn't want to destroy one. Anyway here's my E12-93. As I mentioned earlier this was the one used on a 510 owner's L 4 cylinder who was on the Realm. His problem was that he would set the timing normally at 12 degrees BTDC but when revved up the timing would retard up to almost 20 degrees instead of advancing. WTF? was what everyone said at the time. Was the dizzy running backwards, vacuum advance backwards? mechanical advance weights on backwards? eventually someone asked what the module was off of. It was a later 280zx E12-93.

 

I'm going to guess here, but if any Z car owners know more, please elaborate. I think that the 280zx has an elaborate advance/retard system built into the module run by the ECU. This would allow the timing to be tweaked forward and back for emissions and performance. Hell if the L28s had a knock sensor it would make a great ignition retard wouldn't it?

 

This one is from an '84 Maxima with L24 and EFI. The inside is filled with a clear silicone? I touched it thinking it was hard like glass but it's more like hospital Jello. Sticky and stretches. Don't want to tear it.

 

[jefe de jefes]

^^^^^

That's what I was expecting to see with the E12-80.

[datzenmike]

Naw there's just the magnetic trigger signal and a power transistor that's normally at ground (to charge the coil) that shuts off. There is a circuit that allows the motor to be off with the key ON without power flowing through the coil heating it up. I see that everything is tightly mounted on that metal heat sink on the back. I clean dust and spider webs off mine so it stays cool. My experience with transistors and heat is that they become erratic and shut down when heated but come back on line when they cool down.

 

Cool shit.

[72240z]

Its my understanding the E12-80 module has the dwell set in the module itself and just needs a dizzy/coil to work. Using a vac advance. Which is why they are perfect for a carb motor.

 

Where as the E12-93 has an extra plug on the side that goes to the ecu which controls the advance/retard. Using that module without the ecu automatically retards the timing like 7 degrees. Which is why it sucks for a carb motor lol